langwiekurz

Thanks for the reply, r_kt. Yes, by now I have realised that this is the case. I got the feeling, that full manual is working best for me, anyway. (Exposure settings, the Autofocus is working fine for me, in most situations.) When I take the camera out of the bag I find ISO and Time set to Auto. This way I can take a shot immediately, if needed. After that (when I am actually shooting) I choose suitable ISO and set Time to the Front Dial. I also had AFL and AEL switched for a while but switched it back, as I need the AF Lock more frequently. I need it for hyper-focal. I still wish, I could assign the Fn-Button to AFL and/or AEL. Maybe with some firmware update in the future?? I guess not, but who knows... Best Regards, Florian

Thanks, Vidalgo, that's it! I have been struggeling with this for a while.

Hi, Yes, it depends, what the rangefinder-experience means. There are so many factors. I use both a Leica M (digital and film) and now the X-Pro2 as well. For me, in some points the Fuji functions quite similar: First of all the size. It is small and doesn't get in the way between me and the world. And I love to have the clear view through the Viewfinder. The EVF of the Fuji helps in some situations, but actually I don't like it at all. Therefore, a camera with only EVF would be not for me at all. On the other hand, so far I have been only using AF with the Fuji. I never missed AF when using the Leica, but is much easier to use with the Fuji (IMHO) than using MF. For me the biggest difference, still, is the complexity of the Fuji. The Leica M is just more simple to use and I still have to figure out which functions the Fuji has to offer, I really want to use. I am still much faster, getting started with the Leica rather than with the Fuji, but I am working on this Best Regards, Florian

Sorry, I was not percise. I am talking about checking images when I am in view mode. I use the back-dial to zoom in but where, earlier I could go very far to check details, now the range I can zoom in is quite limited.

Hi there, sorry I hope the title is clear enough: Somehow I am not able anymore to zoom into the images (far enough to proper check if the image is sharp) when looking at the pictures on the LCD of the X-Pro2. I must have changed something in the settings, but can not figure out what it is. Does anyone know what could be the reason? Thanks a lot!

Thanks Adam, for so much insight. For now, I think I found some good points to start. But I must say that I will try to make use of the Autofocus, a lot. I am a big fan of manual focus – in fact that was all I ever needed. But even though that I wanted the Fuji XP2 first of all as a backup to my M, I now like the idea to make it my first choice for situations where a bit more speed might be useful. For people who come from a DSLR the XP2 might be a slow down (which many will finde very enjoyable) in their work. But in my case I see the potential for it to bring (back) quite a bit of speed in my work when needed (good AF, 8 frames/sec., still good image quality at high ISO, etc.) I also think I will mainly stick to Aperature Priority combined with Auto ISO. The M I am using all manual, only. I am excited, how it will be for me, using both cameras side by side, in the long term. I must confess that so far I didn't get the chance to really use the XP2. I played arround with it a lot at home and tried to understand most functions (your answers where helpful, thanks again!) Now I am looking forward to take it out. From Februar onward I will be traveling a bit and I am looking forward to take the Fuji along Best, Florian

Hi Adam, thanks a lot for your reply. It was helpful, most of all, to calm me down. I got that camera – and now I want to know what's going on there. But you are right: it is complex (coming form an M, and maybe also otherwise). I often read, how simple, and also slower, more focused, photography became for some people, with the XP2. For me right now, it seems really complex, ans super fast You are right, I need to figure out what I need and want to use. That will bring down it's complexity in the day to day use. Thank's for your offer, I will ask when I have more questions. I am pretty sure I will have, sooner or later. Best Regards, Florian

Nobody who has some idea about that?

No??

Hi there, I am new to this Forum, as well as to the Fuji X-Pro 2. Coming from Leica M I was looking for a second System, to replace my Canon 5DII and several Lenses. So far, I really like the XP2. It feels just right and the image quality is amazing IMO. But I am a bit overwhelmed with all the technical possibilities, as well as the many buttons. It will take me some time to set it up in the right way which works for me. One big drawback I see so far is, that I can not assign the AE-Lock Function to the Fn-Button. For me, that seems to be just the right place for this function. (Of course if set to "on/off", so that you don't have to keep the button pressed) Or did I overlook something? Is there a chance with another Firmware update it will be possible? Changing AF-L and AE-L works ok for me, but using Fn for AF-L would be perfect, IMO. I really wish, I am just mistaken, here and there is a way. Best Regards,

Hi there, I am new to this forum, as well. Coming from Leica M, I was looking for a second body/system and after making up my mind went with the X-Pro 2 with 23mm f/2. So far I am very happy with my decision, and with the fact that I finally could get rid of my Canon System (5DII and several lenses). But I must confess that I am, at this point, still a bit overwhelmed with all the possibilities I have with the Fuji, compared to the Leica. I will need some time to get in to it, I guess – but so far this process has been great joy! So, I made the same experience and found many of my pictures underexposed after I imported them to LR. I (think I) got it now. But this rises the Question: Should I underexpose my images (when shooting DR100%) to be able to get the same Image Quality of those lovely JPGs when I develop my RAW files? (Of course, I could just use the JPGs, but I am used to use RAW and like to do some local adjustments like dodging and burning. Also I would like to sharpen in the post processing, etc.) Or does it just mean: Expose to the light, to prevent areas from burning out and fix/get back shadow details in PP? (Which is the way I am anyway using in many occasions, with other systems, as well ...) And does it also mean, in case I want to use both, RAW and JPG side by side, then I should always use Auto-DR, so that I have correctly appearing JPGs & RAW files that are underexposed to give the right starting point to achieve great images in PP (Lightroom in my case)? In other words: DR100: expose to the highlights – Auot-DR: expose to the right? Sorry, I hope this was not to confusing. I just try to develop a consistent system that works for me... Thanks a lot and best Regards!