yukosteel
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Posts posted by yukosteel
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Thanks for posting that, it's good to know that excessive filter set weight is causing XF 27mm lens malfunctioning. Now I'm curious if rumored XF 27mm II lens will have different mechanical approach to address cases when multiple front filter weight is required to stay there.
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Few pictures from Pergear 35mm F1.2 with Fujifilm X-E2s:
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Recently started to explore Pergear 35mm F1.2 lens on Fuji X. It's quite an interesting glass, and I'm going to discover more details about the internals soon by disassembling it.
For now here's the initial review article of Pergear 35mm F1.2 on Fuji X-E2s camera. I'll keep updating it with more pictures and discoveries.
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Had the same problem, and settings already had Command Aperture, but I forgot to rotate ISO dial to 'C'.
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Yes it's normal, by design many Fuji lens have floating optics inside controlled by electromagnets, nothing to worry about.
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On 7/10/2020 at 4:41 PM, mcorona said:
Hey just did the same with this lens that had a strand of something in the back element. Thanks for the inspiration.
Awesome! : ) Glad you managed to go further with disassembly. Great effort! Thanks for sharing your results.
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On 3/9/2020 at 3:03 PM, jlima said:
Hi there!
I was thinking about getting the fuji 35mm f1.4 to my xpro2 but had this crazy idea of getting the voightlander color skopar 35mm and an adapter instead.
I usually shoot with vintage lenses so the AF is not a deal breaker, I'm overall worried about the sharpness, colours and contrast of the lens, the small size of the voightlander is also a point in favour of that lens...
What are your thoughts about this?
You may want to check these articles and also direct CV 35mm F2 vs XF 35mm F1.4 comparison and make your opinion based on pictures. I used to shoot with color-skopar 35mm F2.5 as well, it's awesome tiny lens and its performance is very close to CV 35mm F2.
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It sounds like correct behavior of Fuji X camera. I'd recommend to check your AF-mode switch at the front of camera.
If it's set to "S" or "C" then in manual F/SS/ISO you will see DOF changes.
But if AF-mode is set to "M" then in manual F/SS/ISO mode you will only see exposure changes, but aperture remains wide open showing same DOF.
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It's normal behavior of many Fuji XF lens, I also noticed it on XF 56mm F1.2, 23mm F1.4. Looks like it's related mostly to camera firmware controlling the lens.
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Unless you are printing 100% size there is a simple solution - to shoot with 16mm lens and just crop to desired 18mm. The resulting image will hav emuch better level of border details comparing to XF 18mm F2. And you have flexibility of shifting frame a bit.
I also prefer 18mm of X70 more than XF 16mm on X bodies, but only due to more compact size.
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I'm using custom neck/wrist straps that are connecyed with durable ring.
https://yukosteel.wordpress.com/2019/07/27/diy-leather-camera-strap/
It's easy to add small carabiner to the ring to quickly secure it in the pocket.
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Hello Omar. The name plate has adhesive tape under it. I'd recommend to use more slim tool like on this picture.
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I've used Fuji TC 2x on many adapted Nikon DSLR lens. Optically that Samyang 135mm F2 is designed for DSLR which means it has at least 30mm more space between rear glass and sensor comparing to Fuji, so TC protruding front block should definitely fit the space and work with Samyang great. The only cons is expected IQ degradation because Fuji TCs are optimized for modern formulas of Fuji tele lens, however resulting IQ may be higher comparing to image right out of Samyang cropped 1.4x or 2x times.
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When I travel light single lens works best, because I don't need to think about switching lens. It happens that I miss some focal or extra aperture steps form lens left home, but that's the price of traveling light, so it's not disappointing : )
I'd choose single lens by "number of favorite shots" like MailerDaemon suggested. If you can't decide on single lens, take two and use this trip as a training for future more light trips.
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12 hours ago, Amoudiom said:
I'll get in contact with you as soon as I receive it back and open it up. I found this online guide that I will use in the repair job. This should be fun!
I found your post (below) which I will follow.
Since that time I've disassembled few more XF 27mm F2.8, here is updated and extended guide of Fuji XF 27mm F2.8 disassembly.
If you discover any mechanical damage, please let me know, I'll think how it can be repaired.
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7 hours ago, Amoudiom said:
I think I'm going to ask Fujifilm USA to send it back, and go with your recommendation of buying another one for about $200 instead of repair it.
I still have some working electronics parts from my XF 27mm converted to manual. If you are interested I can try to look at your lens and see if AF drive replacement helps, or check if there is any mechanical damage inside which I can also fix by reusing parts I have. At least it worths trying. If it's easy fix you don't need to buy another XF 27mm, if it's non-mechanic or AF module problem (e.g. failed other component) I'll just send it back and you can list it for parts or convert to manual lens.
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It may be gear problem due to use time. There are few blocking stoppers keeping focusing range and they may crack over time allowing lens to overfocus causing error.
Another problem - could be electronics, common recommendation is to try to clean the lens contacts and see if it helps.
Can you write more about your lens symptoms? I'll try to help discover what is wrong with it.
If the lens is not repairable, then it can be reused to create manual focus mod of XF 27mm with constant F2.8.
At your place I'd try to find the way to repair the lens, and if that is not possible would sell it for parts and purchase new one on eBay - there are plenty of them for about $200
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I've purchased used XF 35mm F1.4 with similar symptoms you are describing. Closer inspection unveiled mechanical problem I've managed to fix - here's related article.
I'd recommend to test lens focusing while camera is positioned on different angles and also check if fully extended front module is tilting to one side more than another.
A computer fan like noise
in Fuji X-T4
Posted
Good to know you found a workaround to that noise, because it is absolutely normal for Fuji X-T4.
Camera has powerful electromagnets to put sensor "flying in the air" after you turned it on. When Image Stabilizer is disabled, sensor just remains "flying" in static position. When Image Stabilizer is enabled - electromagnets are reacting and shifting sensor to compensate movements and keep image stable.
There is no way to turn that electromagnets off when X-T4 camera is operating. So you will always have that noise. In some cases magnets are producing additional sounds when stabilizing sensor position - that sounds are also normal, indicating that camera is operating properly.
Personally, I prefer completely silent cameras, and it was the main reason for me to sell X-T4. But if you need Image Stabilizer - Fuji X-T4 is excellent tool.