kimcarsons

Yes. It is very common for amateur video to be shot at far too high a shutter speed. Just like with any camera, if you want to shoot shallow depth of field video in daylight, you're going to need to use an ND filter. Nothing Fuji or camera model specific there.

What would you consider "filmic"? The Phillip Bloom color-graded-beyond-recognition look? If so, then it's because the Fuji doesn't record a log profile internally and people aren't having to try to bring back the color/contrast with clown makeup and Martian dust.

No, these pictures do not exhibit purple veiling flare. Yes, this kind of flare is normal for lenses for mirrorless cameras. You can avoid the red dot flare by using a lens made for an SLR (using an adapter). Or buy just using a DSLR camera. The purple flare/grid issue tends to happen when the light source is outside the frame, but it's pretty hard to trigger. I've been shooting with the X-T2 since it came out and only had it happen once. I suppose you could say the purple veiling flair issue is normal for the X-Pro2 and X-T2---that doesn't mean it isn't a fault. The red dot flare could also be said to be a design flaw inherent in all mirrorless cameras with a short flange distance (and perhaps certain microlens designs on the sensor). In brief, if you're really interested using flare artistically, you're better off with a DSLR or at least SLR lenses.

It happens even when they're unlinked.

L-Bracket....

It does not. But you should probably reset it yourself anyway.

That's a bit disingenuous. It's well known that camera manufacturers (for whatever reason) are willing to put features (touch/tilt screens, USB charging, face detection, etc.) in their compact cameras which they aren't willing to put in their ILC or more "professional" models. We're talking about the "professional" model lines here, not compacts.

That's just lens ordinary lens flare combined with the "red dot" flare common to basically all mirrorless cameras (caused by the short flange distance). Those are completely different problems to the "purple veiling flare"/"grid artifact" problem that only X-Trans II and (especially) X-Trans III sensors suffer from.

That depends of course. Having the ability to charge in camera is great for people who may be caught away from home... Staying overnight, camping, hiking, road tripping, flying. Hell, you can plug it right into a solar panel... Is it necessary? No. But it is definitely better, and the way, IMHO, things could have been from the start if the camera industry wasn't so resistant to change (esp. re adopting any technology from smartphones.) I'm pretty sure the OVF is the same brightness. The frame lines are brighter on the X-Pro2, but otherwise it's still a bit dim for night shooting.

Well now that you've had the last word I suppose we're all free to go.

I still carry a spare battery, but with the X-T2 I've never had to use it (that is, never exhausted the battery during a session). When I get someplace with an outlet (home, coffee shop, DMV, whatever), I just plug the camera in to charge so that it's always full when I head back out. I haven't even had it dip below 70% yet... The USB cable and little apple USB charger add almost no weight/bulk to my bag, so I always have it with me. It's one of those things (like a tilting LCD) that everybody thinks (and vehemently attests!) they'd never use but once they've tried it they can't imagine living without it.

The kind of damage OP refers to is caused by abrasion. Putting a camera in a rock tumbler would be an abrasion test. Which ones come out with their coatings removed? I guarantee you, 30 seconds in a rock tumbler would produce a very different result on painted vs anodized aluminum. Most 'lab' and accelerated aging tests aren't things anyone would actually do in real life usage. They are intended to give a relatively immediate result instead of having someone, e.g. drive a car for 20 years. In brief, you've missed the point entirely.

Right. Unfortunately this figure of speech is also completely meaningless because it is applied to every new camera that comes on the scene which isn't made entirely of plastic (and perhaps some that are), despite the vast difference in quality and durability. You simply can't pick something up, handle it with white gloves, and declare it indestructible. Put a Nikon, Canon, Pentax and Fuji in a rock tumbler for 30 seconds... Now that's a test. Submerge them under 6" of water for 30 seconds... Now that's a test! Hold them in your sweaty palm for 8 hours ... Now that's a test! Give me something more meaningful.... At least be specific. Is it built like a Sherman or an Abrams?

1. "Much" is stretching it. There are slightly better 4k cameras in the price range. 2. That's a big part of it for sure. I never used the OVF except to play around on the X-Pro. But I still preferred the form factor. 3. The X-T2 came with a charger, but I haven't taken it out of the box and I doubt I ever will. Every time I've charged the camera, it's been via the USB port. It's the way of the future!

Well, it's probably not worth the $$$ they'll want at a store. The $20-$30 ones all over ebay are fairly priced though. This is digital, 2016. All new chassis designs and materials. Do you really think they used the same tooling for the X-Series cameras as the GX860? Do they even have that same division of their company anymore? Are the people who made it still even living? And what on earth does "built like a tank" really mean anyway? You lose all credibility when you say that, because I've never seen a camera that was. A short drop is enough to damage any of them.

Yeah, the problem is that the people who gave it those high scores are bozos. The only reviewers that I've ever seen to any real durability tests were DigitalRevTV, and they did it for the lulz, not scientifically. Let's face it, Fuji doesn't really have a reputation for making durable cameras... They've only been making these ILCs for 2 model generations now---hardly long enough to develop any reputation. If you ask me they're pretty fragile. They're figuring it out as they go. Who knows, maybe they're trying to emulate Leica with the paint... Just doesn't look as good wearing off of magnesium/aluminum alloy as it does brass. As to the L Bracket, you can take off the L and then it's just a full length, perfectly fitted arca swiss plate with an opening for the battery door... Much better ergonomically, if you ask me, than a little 40mm plate---assuming you're going to leave it on the camera all the time.

FYI you can get arca swiss plates / l-brackets for the X-T2 for around $20 now. That way you can set the camera down right side up... Otherwise, get a roll of gaffer tape and go nuts.

Yeah, still, the X-T2 isn't nearly as bad as the X-Pro2. I had that thing for a month and babied it but it was still all scratched up by the end. Contrast that with my six year old Pentax K-5 that's been through hell and back and still looks and works just like it did when it came out of the box---nary a scratch. All the reviewers who tell you these things are "built like tanks." have obviously never handled anything not made entirely out of plastic.

Mine does the same thing. All the dials on the X-T2 are like this, a bit wobbly. One consequence of making them taller... On the X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 you can move the exposure comp dial with just your thumb, but the X-T2 doesn't seem to be designed with that in mind. You're expected to pinch it between thumb and finger.

I think it's because Fuji uses black paint rather than more durable anodization or powder coating (or just plastic sheathing) employed by other brands.

I've had both the X-Pro2 and the X-T2. I've never noticed the X-T2 getting hot whereas the X-Pro2 would get warm just going through the menus, shooting stills. I even got a high temp warning on the X-Pro2 after only recording a few minutes of 1080P video. I wouldn't say it ever got "hot" though. I will say the X-T2 certainly gets cold when used out in the winter elements. More so than any other camera I've owned. Feels like carrying a block of ice in your hand.

Which speedbooster did you get? I've heard that the super tak 50mm 1.4 protrudes too much from the rear to be used with a speedbooster...

I had the X-Pro2 and returned it, I can attest to the fact that it has the same kinds of problems the X-T2 does (more, in fact). I think the difference probably lies in the users. Many loved the X-Pro1 in spite of its faults, because of the form factor. Many X-Pro users are also of the mentality of "Shutter speed, ISO, and Aperture are the only settings I change, because that's all REAL photographers care about" are thus unlikely to use any of the many advanced features of the cameras enough to realize that they're buggy/don't work as advertised. Very little of this is the hardware's fault, it's just Fuji's policy of releasing the camera's with half baked firmware (not just buggy, but not even fully thought-out/designed), and then fixing it later.

I've bought a lot of computer gear from them over the years... Never had much reason to test their return policy, though. I'd make sure whoever you buy from has a liberal one. If I were you I'd at least wait for the next firmware release to come out and see if Fuji fixes any of these bugs. There are plenty of not-one-off-defects left in the software, mostly of the feature-doesn't-work-as-advertised type. You don't want to fall into the trap I did and have your return window closing just as the new firmware is announced.

Sorry to say that the face/eye detection still isn't up to the task. If you want to get the shot, you're better off disabling it and positioning the AF point manually. I hope Fuji hasn't given up on on improving it, as this feature is really the 'killer app' of mirrorless.