DeeDee Stills

Additional info: A Canon coiled style extension cable will work with the XT2.

I don't see any distortion here. Just volume deformation. 
 
As our friends at DxO put it: "In practice, the principles of optical geometry dictate that it is impossible to maintain both straight lines and volume consistency."

14f2.8
 
I used to be 18mm user for quite a long time and when I switched to Fuji I picked up 14f2.8 thinking it would be a good choice. However I still hadn’t tried it on. As a matter of fact I never carry my photo-bag while shooting. I always leave it in the car and go along with a camera and a single lens (spare battery in a pocket). At first it were zooms – 18-55 or 50-230 but with the lapse of time my preferences of FL narrowed to 35mm/60mm, so my mint 14f2.8 is waiting for its chance….

Peter Gabriel, I use my X-Pro2 all day shooting stills on film sets, and the images from my 35mm f2 are tack sharp wide open, close focus distant focus and everything in between. Maybe trying a camera, with an unknown history of messing with the controls, at a camera store is not the best test.  I shoot 1200 to 1500 images a day on set, and when I chuck out stuff it's because the actors blinked, were doing strange things with their faces or they moved and are blurry; but rarely focus. The quality off the 24 meg chip is vastly superior to my 16meg X100T, which I haven't used at all on set since getting the X-Pro2. Lovely camera but simply not as good. But so darned cute I can't let go!
 
All my other Fuji lenses are equally excellent, especially the 18-55 OIS and the 50-140 OIS, and my 14mm f2. These are workhorses; I use them in stupidly low light conditions (typically ISO 1600  to ISO 3200, 1/60th wide open) and the focus success is far greater than I ever got with my Nikons. I have no hesitation about recommending the system, and look forward to adding the XT-2 when it arrives, which it surely will.

So, is it possible to see your naileds and faileds, as I'm affraid nobody fully understand what are we talking about here.

Just tried it with my old X-Pro1, with artificial light. It's slow but precise. No reason why the X-Pro2 would be worse.
 
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Well, my XF35mmF2 works just as designed, with a close focus range of 35cm.

did you shoot in continuous mode - CH or CL? If yes, here are a 2 suggestions
 
1) Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect).
2) Turn Off Face Detection! If you have Face Detection put to ON, the camera will focus only with CDAF. The faster Phase Detection AF (PDAF) works only if Face Detection is disabled.

These shots were my first attempts at doing real astrophotography. I was super inspired by the super dark skies up at 11000 feet on the volcano. The 14 was a little limiting however. I'm now looking at the Rokinon 12mm f2 for next time. The extra stop would be useful as well as the extra width. It was really hard to get the trees and much of the Milky Way in the shot with only a 21mm equivalent focal length.
 
Oh, BTW, the shot that appears to be a sunset ... it isn't. When have you seen the stars above a sunset? ;-) ;-)