pete1959
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Posts posted by pete1959
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This should give you hope.
It's a long thread, with lots of people thinking FUJI wouldn't cover water damage (which is oddly enough explicitly NOT covered in their warranty and thus gives the company a very big "out").
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/58675407
In the end FUJI covered it.
Let us know what happens please.
Peter
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Original Poster:
If you post a problem to a forum, and somebody has the courtesy to take the time to reply, do the courtesy and tell us what happened.
There are people here making buying decisions on expensive professional gear.
You posted a significant problem with a brand new camera.
It's a pretty straightforward question.
Is it the lens or the camera?
Was it user error?
Is it resolved?
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so Pete, how do you explain that on the X-T1 the preview matches pretty much exact the final image and on the X-T2 it doesn't?
If Fuji managed to do it on the X-T1, why won't it be possible on the X-T2?
I can't. good point.
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Thanks. We don't have another lens but will try a friend's 35mm later today.
...what happened?
Is it the camera or the lens?
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I think what you are seeing is the reflection of the sensor itself on the rear element of the lens.
the sun is hitting the reflector at just such an angle that it's reflecting and reappearing and photographing itself.
....should have read the sun is hitting the SENSOR at just such an angle that it's reflecting
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No.
That's not normal.
Did you try a different lens?
Wondering if it's a communication error between lens and camera...?
Pete
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Please!
Rear Command Dial > Autofocus On
Ie; I use the AE-L / AF-L as AF>On, with the shutter AF off.
Like a lot of folks do...
But the two back buttons are far too small...
I have this big rear command dial right under my thumb...nice and fat...unused.
If only pressing on that BIG FAT DIAL would initiate AF!
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Or look at it like this:
The LCD live-view is version 1.
You are watching a little TV set. It's not a picture yet.
Once your press the button you get version 2 (cooked and baked, not live, like version 1)
Version 2 is camera thumbnail.
Version 3 is SOOC Jpeg on your card (which may or may not match Version 2 exactly).
Raw is version 3 or 0, depending on interpretation.
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When picture effect is turned off the image previewed will be without film simulation settings BUT the resultant final image produced will still have all the film sim settings applied.
Well said. It's as simple as that.
What you see in the viewfinder, camera set to RAW only or not, is ALWAYS a "cooked" camera thumbnail.
Cooked meaning the camera is going to apply settings to produce the camera thumbnail that you see.
Period.
It's not a bug, but could be misinterpreted as such.
It's more a "perception".
Your camera makes a thumbnail jpeg that you see in the viewfinder.
Even in RAW.
That is NOT the same as RAW +Jpeg...ie; that camera created thumbnail is independent of that jpeg on your card.
You can not "download" that camera thumbnail.
If you are a RAW shooter it's irrelevant anyhow, because on import it's going to be a flat native RAF.
But the camera, in RAW, is forced to cook your image in some way or form so it can render it in the viewfinder.
If you want a Jpeg SOOC then you need to make sure that the settings are such that the camera cooked jpeg will be properly converted.
All and all, it's rather counter intuitive.
Every FUJI shooter should read one of this series books ...115 expert tips. It explains this phenomenon rather well.
https://www.rockynook.com/shop/photography/the-fujifilm-x-pro2/?ref=12/
You would think that what you VIEW in the viewfinder will be exactly what the camera thumbnail and SOOC Jpeg would look like, but in truth the way the camera works makes a perfect match difficult.
As other posters have said the truth is you need to dial in the settings if you want SOOC jpegs.
If you shoot RAF (RAW) this is a totally academic discussion because it's RAW.
Once your understand the way your camera creates the viewfinder thumbnail image, which probably wouldn't exactly match the SOOC Jpeg in a side by side either, you can see how you end up with slight variations in rendering.
It's not a bug. I have always noticed it. It's just the nature of the beast.
Peter
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The film simulations on the X-Pro2 and X-T2 are a bit different than previous models. The auto exposure algorithm is different too. Noise in low light is slightly worse than the X-Trans I/II cameras. However, the noise reduction in the JPEGs does appear to be better. If you think the shadows are too dark, then why not set SHADOWS to -1? Or try the Pro Neg S film simulation (I find Provia to be a bit contrasty/garish myself.)
Unfortunately, for now anyway, all the new tech is bundled with the 24MP sensor. Personally, I'd love it if Fuji made a 16MP version of the X-Trans III sensor for better low light performance (actually, if I could really get what I want it'd be Bayer), but I don't think that's going to happen.
As for the plastic look, I keep the NR set to -2 or -4 (it's too bad there's no way to set this based on ISO like on other camera brands). Or you may try NR 0 to 2 with the NOISE EFFECT enabled... This produces similar levels of detail but with a less objectionable appearance to the noise. (again, it sucks to have to fiddle with this every time you change ISO...)
Also, don't forget the relationship between ISO and resolution. You may just need to accept that at 6400 ISO your X-T2 is an 6-8MP camera and print/display your images at the appropriate size.
...."Also, don't forget the relationship between ISO and resolution. You may just need to accept that at 6400 ISO your X-T2 is an 6-8MP camera and print/display your images at the appropriate size.".
Huh???
Do you mean SOOC jpegs?
If you mean the sensor is a base ISO sensor of native ISO 200 that a ISO 6400 image is actually an image pushed 5 stops...and thus the inherent noise, OK, but I'm at a loss as to what the 6/8 megapixel reference is based upon?
Can you tell us what that means???
(My two cents on the topic of is the images from the X-T2 is that they are fantastic when the settings are properly applied and/or proper PP. A notch up from the X-T1.)
Peter
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New 2 1/2" square format Instax and camera...this translated from Fuji Germany:
Cologne (ots) -The whole new square aspect ratio of instax SQUARE and artistic black and white instant film instax monochrome provide new opportunities for the creative instant photography. instax mini monochrome the instant camera instax SQUARE including film from spring 2017, from October 2016 to be available. With the worldwide retro trend also instant photography can look back on a true renaissance. With approximately 5.5 million sold instant cameras (2015) to FUJIFILM Instax has established itself as the global market leader and offers of instant cameras, via instant print film to smartphone printers on instant basis a broad product range. Just in time for Photokina 2016 presented Fujifilm with instax SQUARE and the instant film instax now monochrome two novelties for more fun with the instant photography. Square instant pictures with instax SQUARE The existing formats instax mini (Format 62x46 mm) and instax WIDE (Format 62x99 mm) are first added in spring 2017 a square format: instax SQUARE includes a completely new instant camera together with the associated instant film with 1: 1-side relationship in picture format 62x62 mm. The square format is ideal for portraits and scenery and is in times of Instagram and Co become virtually standard smartphone images. Besides the additional creative expression Fujifilm sees especially in the popularity of square images have great potential to support the global instant photography trend with instax SQUARE further. instax monochrome for expressive instant images in S / W Ideal for all those who expressed artistically with FUJIFILM Instax, is the new Instax Mini instant film instax monochrome. With the new instant film it will be possible for the first time without filters or lenses, expressive black and white instant prints mini format to obtain (Format 62x46 mm). It is ideal for art, fashion and street photography and focus on demanding needs of creative users. instax monochrome will be available in October 2016 and is equipped with all instax mini instant cameras compatible
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...crud now I said "f14"
Should say "1.4"
spell check is my enema
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I just got my x-t2 I thought I could charge the in body battery through the grip but it didn't charge?!?!
You can charge the batteries in the grip via the supplied charger.
The battery in the BODY can be charged via the camera USB port.
That is independent of one another.
(BTW: The USB charging will stop if the computer goes to sleep)
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You may have a card issue.
If the camera is "stuck writing to card" ...the light flashing...that is an indicator of a bad card, or a bad camera for that matter...or who knows?
I'm not certain that the camera freezing, which there are occasional reports of around the net, can be traced to the battery specifically...I use both batteries without issue.
Most folks do it seems.
Batteries get dropped and damaged...batteries go bad....there are all sorts of reasons.
My 2 cents.
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CRAP!
...my apologies...in my morning fog I had done the lens conversion in my head and made the 23 f.14 the 35 1.4...!
I stand by everything as to what I said EXCEPT the 35 1.4 is very small and compact.
The 23 f 14. is not small or compact.
I own the 35 1.4 and it's the same deal...older AF and louder noise....
Do you need the extra stop of light?... if you do not get the f2.
Peter
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Not going to load up videos etc...but I will tell you this...the 35 1.4 is loud and slow ...loud meaning too loud to shoot video, not so loud you would hear it in a church (maybe)....the AF performance, in any light, will not match the newest Fuji lenses.
In a quiet room taking portraits my partner has commented on hearing the lens.
That's NEVER good.
It's more like first generation AF vs. third.
Two generations better IMHO.
I shoot in very poor lighting conditions doing editorial photography frequently at night...the 35 1.4 is up to the task most of the time, and certainly not all of the time, especially in AF-C.
I keep it and haven't ordered the 35 f2 because I literally need that extra stop of light.
I'm often shooting at 1/125 @ f 1.4, ISO 6400,....slower than 1/125 and I have to much people blur (all of my work involves people).
It comes down to this:
Unless you frequently need every ounce of light you can squeeze out of your lens/camera combo, do NOT get the 35 1.4.
And by "need" I mean getting that shot is the difference between a wasted evening and not.
The 35 1.4, although a stellar lens, it is significantly slower and bigger in all regards, with arguably equal image quality.
A lot bigger....and a ton slower.
No comparison.
BTW: it is noticeably faster on an X-T2 than X-T1 / X-T10
Peter
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Would love to order something like that but the original link is broken!
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that is the aperture stopping down.
the old lens design is rather slow and noisy.
You might see LCD flicker under the right circumstances and hear the focus motors and blades stopping up and down.
Peter
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To accurately preview your JPEG images yes turn it on.
It will have no effect on the RAW.
If you shoot RAW only it's nice to see what the image COULD look like, not what it will look like.
Preview effect shows you the finished in camera JPEG....
So for RAW only it's a matter of taste if turned on or off.
Peter
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Yes.
I purchased two X-T2's.
Two metal grips.
One booster grip.
I will rarely need the booster grip, as that's not the usual type of shooting I do, but I foresee an occasional real need for the booster, so I got one.
Thus the two metal grips are always on the two cameras.
The booster is in the bag.
I hate the ergonomics of the X-T2 (and X-T1) without the added metal grip as my pinkie has no where to go and the camera is unbalanced without it.
I consider the metal grip a MUST have!
For me much more so than the booster.
I left the DSLR world of two Canon 5D MK3's and all primes and "L"'s for the Fuji system because of the size/weight/intimidation factor of the DSLR's.
The booster is a big step in the wrong direction for me.
The grips are a nominal addition of size and weight and payoff big time in ergonomics.
Peter
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Fuji X-T2 weather-sealing issues?
in Fuji X-T2 / Fuji X-T20
Posted
Here is that other forums posters final report:
As you all know, Fujifilm is handling my repair under warranty and I will receive my camera on Monday. Some of you were asking for details on the cause and damage assessment. Below is an email I received from Fujifilm:
Your X-T2 body was evaluated by our technical staff and upon inspection moisture was found inside the camera body. This moisture had permeated some key components and was related to the camera malfunction you experienced. Although your camera is dust/moisture "resistant" and is weather sealed, it must have been exposed to a good amount of moisture. Body is not "water proof". In this case, we gave you the benefit of the doubt and decided to handle your service request under warranty at no charge. We appreciate your business.
Though Fujifilm is covering my repair under warranty it was done so by giving me the "benefit of the doubt." Therefore, this appears to be a subjective decision by Fujifilm to cover my repair under warranty. I wonder under what conditions Fujifilm would not cover repair of moisture damage under warranty? It appears that covering moisture damage under warranty is still a vague issue. Then again, for all we know, Fujifilm could be covering all moisture damage under warranty. Anyway, I'm thrilled that Fujifilm covered the repair and I have a very positive impression of Fujifilm and their customer service.