George_P
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Posts posted by George_P
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Shouldn't be a problem to change MikeG to something more remote from Mike G. I would happily comply to such a request from an older member. Good luck Mike and I wish you a turn for the better.
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Hullo,In the menu, go to the first blue tab (set-up menu #1), then scroll to Screen Set-up, then choose between Preview Exposure in Manual Mode: On / Off.When you are in a dark environment (whether you want to shoot with flash or without flash, e.g. with a long shutter speed on a tripod), if you set it to Off you will get an amplified view and you will see the scene. You mentioned an OVF like on an SLR, well there you would not be able to do this, if it is dark, you see darkness. You would have to use an autofocus assist light, either on the camera or on an attached flash, which in some circumstances can be undesirable and it would not be effective for distant subjects anyway.On the other hand, if you set it to On, you see the direct effect that your changes in SS, Aperture or ISO have on your exposure, so you can have an idea beforehand of what your shot will look like. You even see the effects of different film simulations, depth of field etc.These are some of the advantages of the mirrorless concept. Manual page 108.
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Quincy, I am late to the party but thanks for your good intention to assemble and share a useful resource and for your effort to keep it up to date. Cheers.
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Xing,
Compliments, beautiful pictures of stunning sceneries. Thanks for sharing.
brgds
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and they may interfere with the lens hood.
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You are welcome. Look at the specs of the lenses (e.g. on the Fujifilm site) that you have and that you might like to buy in the future (or lenses from your previous cameras if you think you would use them adapted, for example if you have a macro lens that you like - you would not be able to use AF with adapted lenses but esp with a macro lens that would not matter anyway). Write down the diameters and you will see if you can save some cash with the step-up rings. Downsides ? Maybe some degree of inconvenience. A ring is cheap, so why not try it. Of course, you can use a bigger filter with a smaller lens but not vice versa obviously. Brgds
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Got my FlashQ T1-S (new version) set, one TX and two RX. Tiny, lightweight, cool. Works to 1/200 with my X-T10 and my two Meike 320 for Fuji. Very small and portable mini setup. Good fun. The only downside I see as for now is that the RX does not fit firmly into the table-top stand that came with the Meike. A piece cut from an old credit card solves that.
The set was delayed for a few days (sold out) but the folks at LightPix were very fast and polite in their response to my mail and then it came very fast as promised. (4 days Hong-Kong to EU - Slovakia).
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They are called step-up or step-down rings. This is what they look like: http://www.mini-max.sk/redukcie-a-redukcne-kruzky/redukcie-step-up. e. g. 43 to 49mm.
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...there is a funny little accessory that fits into the bracket and adds a diffusor before the built-in flash - it preserves the space needed for it to pop up. Would make the built-in flash softer and you could use it to optically fire the off-camera flash till you get some radio triggers.
http://www.dx.com/p/3-color-pop-up-flash-diffuser-kit-blue-white-yellow-154822#.VzEFk_BXerU
It costs next to nothing.
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X-T10 only supports 1/180 officially, 1/250 after firmware 4.3, but the Nissin i40 supports manual HSS. Meike - I haven't tried how fast it can go, I've only had it a week or so and I used it in the evening indoors. I am on the road so I can't try now. Perhaps an ND filter would help for what you want to do ? To reduce ambient light and thus slow down the SS so you can then balance between the ambient and flash by setting the power of the flash and therefore you would not need HSS. But if you need fast SS to freeze motion then - no. But other people know more than me about this, I am not a photog, I am only learning. Look here:
http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/740-nissin-i40-hss-on-xt1-help/
http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2496-which-trigger-support-hss-mode/
But 100-200$ won't get you very far. That is why I started on the Meike. Very good value for its price.
brgds
G.
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I have two pcs. Meike 320 and I like them, nice size for on-camera, nice size to be easily packed for travel, strong, well built, so far no complaints. They support TTL when mounted on Fuji. Cost me 89€ for one.
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Dear Dr. Nipun,
If you use a "speedlite" as an optical slave, then yes, you would trigger it by the built-in flash of your X-T10. If you want to use it as a radio-controlled remote flash, you would have to buy a TX (transmitter) unit that would be mounted on your camera and a RX (receiver) unit that would be mounted on your fash. There are many options available, all mentioned in other threads in the Flash Photography section of these forums by people who know much more about it than myself.
AFAIK only one of them supports TTL metering (through the lens - the camera fires a pre-flash to meter the scene and then adjusts exposure for the actual flash lit shot) but that is pretty expensive. The others enable you to remotely fire the flash but you must set the exposure and the power of the flash yourself, in some cases that can be done also through the remote system.
If your budget is tight at the moment I would suggest: get the Meike 320 for Fuji and use it mounted on the camera and tilted upwards to bounce off the ceiling or with a diffusor or softbox. It supports TTL so it is easy. Or use it as an optical slave. Works very well, at least for me. You can then get a TX and one or more RX and other flashes later on.
I hope this is a good start for you until the flash experts tell you more. But read the other threads. Cheers.
George
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Milandro,
Thanks for your reply, no offence of course, I was just tempted by the picture because I love jazz. I play a little bit, too. Recently I have enjoyed listening to Joe Chamorro and the St Andreu orchestra - he is a teacher and they have an amazing project going on, teaching and playing with young musicians. I think it is fantastic to see young kids so ethusiastic about jazz as opposed to the junk that most young people listen to in mainstream media. Look them up if you like. Anyway, back to Fuji. Cheers, Kind Regards
George
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Considering this is a rather weird thread already, I will venture into this: Milandro, there is a weird accessory sticking from your mouth in your avatar picture. Do you play the sax ? I'd love to hear, send us a link to an mp3 or to a YouTube video. Off topic, but let us enjoy life while we can.
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I bought the Meike 320 for Fujifilm a few days ago. I think it is brilliant. TTL on the body works well, off the body as an optical slave works very well too, simple and practical. Strong, small, light, well built, very competitive price but feels like a quality product - what more can you ask for. Includes a diffusor and a desktop stand (with a tripod thread on the bottom). I just ordered another one. I also ordered the FlashQ 1tx + 2rx set, I will report on it when it arrives. Of course, for studio work you will likely use something bigger but as a low weight unit for travelling or for holidays, I think it is very nice to have.
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" Unfortunately, there are only 5 XF lenses that can receive the benefit of the fast contrast AF: XF16-55mm, XF50-140mm, XF90mm, XF35mmF2, and the XF100-400mm. The wide angle lenses such as XF10-24mm and the XF14mm already have fast AF. We can say that the fast AF can be enjoyed through the entire focal range. Use and enjoy switching lenses that are most suitable for each scene. "
Source: http://fujifilm-x.com/en/x-stories/is-the-x-pro2-af-faster/
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35 f2 is a no brainer: small lens, small hood, light, focus is fassst, sharp, more "universal" focal lenght than the 27, nice aperture ring, WR and cheap. I love mine.
35 f1.4 is old stuff :-)
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Has anyone else had a bad quality XF 90mm ?
I bought mine last week and after I had brought it home and unpacked it, seeing it in good light with my glasses on, I came to the conclusion that it is not a brand new lens. There was a hint of a smear on the rear glass, some dust and the paint was rubbed off at a spot on the front edge. I figured someone must have been using it or it was a refurbished one or something like that. So I filed a complaint and I was told I would be notified when new ones arrive on stock and I can come and exchange it for another one of my choice, which a week later really happened (today).
In the meantime before it got exchanged I shot a few test shots with it, most of them wide open of course, and I had the feeling they were rather soft. So I shot some more carefully from a tripod (a test chart) and I could see a big difference between sharpness wide open and stopped down, which was on the contrary to everything I had read in all the reviews.
After I exchanged the lens for a new one I did similar test shots and aha, the new one was sharp from f 2.0 onwards with almost no visible improvement when stopping down to 2.8 or 4.0. So the first one was definitely not OK. I called the shop to let them know, so they don't sell it to some unsuspecting soul. They said they will check it themselves and send it back to the distributor if their tests confirm this.
I haven't done a lot of shooting with the new one, but so far I like what I see and I hope I will enjoy it like everybody else has. Btw, in the shop the boxes of some of the lenses were scratched and crushed, looking ugly, and the shop only sighed that the distributor delivers them in such a bad shape rather often. I refused to take the 35mm f2 they gave me because the box looked as if it had fallen onto an edge of something. They gave me another one. I told them they ought to not accept this from the distributor and ought to demand flawless goods. Crime scene: Bratislava, Slovakia. Distributor: FUJIFILM Europe GmbH, Slovakia office.
George
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I would like to mention an issue. Small bits of material are easily scraped from the surface treatment of the alloy from which the bayonet is made (as you engage the bayonet to the camera, or while joining the two rings together). This debris could get on your sensor and could be hard to remove, or could scratch the sensor.
If you are an adventurous soul, you could try connecting and disconnecting the rings to one another away from the camera, with alternating positions, first one on top, then the other, turning the connector many times and engaging/disengaging the lock, in order to scrape away the parts of the alloy that tend to become loose and to effectively polish the contacting surfaces. You can see the resulting metal debris with a magnifying glass or with your bare eyes (if you are younger than me). Subsequently the debris can be removed by blowing compressed air and using a brush. Make sure no more stuff tends to get loose from the surfaces before you start using the rings on your camera. If you already used them before reading this, check the bayonet on the camera for debris.
Of course, this does not guarantee that no more stuff will get loose, so caution is advised. Better still, throw them out and get the originals, even though they cost five times as much.
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I would say those tiny little screws seem too small for the job considering the size of the tripod attachment block and the forces it is subjected to. Especially as there are only two of them on the X-T10. May the Force be with them ! I would suggest they could be bigger in the next generation, but of course who am I to suggest anything.
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Hullo, everyone, I´m a new member, nice to meet you.
After reading this I had a look at my X-T10 to check it out. I have it since November and I have used it with a tripod a few times only. I have a set of small "watchmakers" screwdrivers and one of them fits the screws snugly so I gently tried the two screws next to the tripod threaded hole. (X-T10 has two only). To my surprise they were very easy to unscrew. A VERY gentle turn with the screwdriver was enough. The were almost loose, I would say. Definitely not the way it should be.
I tried all the other screws on the body. These were all properly tight, nothing remotely like the two screws next to the tripod attachment.
Milandro & Loctite 222: +1
I took them out and put them back in with a bit of 222 on their threads, one by one. (I have it because I have a road bike with a carbon frame). I think it is better to keep them in place than to loose them. I suppose the block with the tripod attachment threaded hole could cause damage to the camera if it got loose and moved on the inside of the camera. I don't know if it could touch some electronics but maybe it could.
I personally am not afraid of loosing my guarantee because of this. I trust Fujifilm to be reasonable in technical terms and don't believe they would use this as an excuse to avoid their obligations regarding guarantee should I ever need it. In fact, I think the proper thing would be to let them know about this and that is what I am going to do via our local representative.
Hello from Cornwall (& RAW advice)
in Newbie / Self Introduction
Posted
While a chance to do something nice was missed.