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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/24/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points

    black and white (open thread)

    Though the window in Sanyang, The Gambia. Fujifilm X-T3 & Fujinon XF23mmF2 R WR - ACROS Film Simulation Doing Dishes by Din Dayemi, on Flickr
  2. 2 points

    Fuji Birds

    In India
  3. 1 point

    Hong Kong Street (Open Thread)

    Any street/public photos of Hong Kong (Open Thread) Taken with FUJIFILM X-T30 - 18 mm - 1/200 f - f/3.2 - ISO160 Bigger version:
  4. 1 point

    XT-3 lens mount cap stuck

    Excellent, glad it worked out Ty!
  5. 1 point

    XT-3 lens mount cap stuck

    Advice comes with the danger of scratching or otherwise harming your equipment. that said, sounds like the cap is cross threaded. how to remove? With computers (so not to damage computers) folks use a Spudger. It’s basically a mini crowbar but made of a softer material like plastic. The auto industry also uses smaller crowbars made of a softer material (plastic) for removing headliners or fabric/plastic, (search auto headliner removal tool) for examples. if it were me and I didn’t have these tools. pushing the lens release button should have no effect as I’ve never seen a camera body lens cover/cap on a camera system that locks (maybe there is a very high end medium or large format camera that does, that’s out of my realm) I’d cover the camera with a camera cleaning cloth. I’d then push the fabric to that small gap you mentioned by using a credit card or something plastic, thin but firm to get under the cap and carefully pry. If it didn’t come off I’d try again but move the card around the cap as I pried. What are your thoughts?
  6. 1 point

    HDR app for Mac Catalina - not Aurora HDR

    You can try Affinity Photo, it is fairly affordable and works with HDR types of images. There are plenty of tutorials available for doing just that as well as Affinity’s online help section. p.s. You may want to change your title a bit. The very recent MacOS 10.15.4 Catalina update turned on support for HDR monitors, so if you have one connected to your Mac, you already have ‘HDR support’ in a sense.
  7. 1 point
    Jen and Row Row 1 by Din Dayemi, on Flickr
  8. 1 point
    A great combo kit as well as a commanding portrait lens! Noah in the Office by Din Dayemi, on Flickr Mark in the Market by Din Dayemi, on Flickr
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point

    X-T30 Video Overheating Solutions

    I’ve shot years of wedding solo and your friends ask is a tough one as shooting is only a quarter of the challenge. That aside. I just did my first video with the x-t3 and focus was a challenge and the stupid stopped recording in 4K. At least it counts down on the screen to give you a heads up on when it will quit recording (so you can try to get critical vows and such...or an external recorder talked below) ok, the overheating issue. An external recorder is the way to go. It should give you 4:2:2 10 bit 4K and no limit on recording time (completely test this as I have xt3 not xt30 experience) the external recorder needs to have a monitor as part of its package. (My past experience w/ a Canon 5D mark III) it was the back LCD that caused the heating issue so switch to the eye viewer and test to confirm it won’t overheat anymore. on other stuff. Work on video focusing a ton and review footage on a large monitor. HD isn’t forgiving and 4K is even less forgiving. Use one lens and get as familiar as possible using it with video. Dreaming of what’s possible (different lenses, etc) vs the reality of only have one chance at getting it right will put a lot of stress on you. Switching gear in the middle of all this will add stress. (Where do you store the other gear, What pocket is it in, how/when to switch back, where’s that lens cap, did switching introduce dust, a hair, finger print or a little fuzzy thing that will be on all your footage now) Sound: shotgun mic like Rodes with fake fur (deadcat) windscreen on camera as it will isolate most unwanted camera and all your breathing noise (you’ll be huffing/puffing at sometime). Small recorder with small lavalier mic for groom. Recorder goes in jacket breast pocket. Turn on at least 10min. before ceremony and put tape over on/off switch (if groom goes to bathroom ya don’t want him messing with recorder because he’s under stress too and may/will forget to turn it back on) hope I didn’t overstep your ask too much. just want to help you and your family. good luck!
  11. 1 point

    Fuji Birds

  12. 1 point

    Mountain Juniper

  13. 1 point

    Fuji Birds

  14. 1 point

    Fuji Birds

    In Marrakech
  15. 1 point
    The "Digital Split Image" focus assist (as implemented on fuji's cameras) requires a display, so in pure OVF it is not possible to use it. However, on the x-pro2 you can also add a little display in the lower right corner of the viewfinder: set it to "ERF mode" : http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-pro2/first_step/monitor/index.html#viewfinder_selector You should then be able to have the split image on the little EVF, with the rest of the viewfinder still in optical.
  16. 1 point
    Is this thread still a thing? I know I'm late to the party, but after looking at all that food, I feel compelled to comment. But first, I must say, many compliments to Chef! Your food looks awesome. As the second post notes, this is real food, not the staged stuff. I'm probably not smart enough to just stay out of this, especially since the thread is so old. However, I looked at all your photos on Flickr, and noticed a couple things. First, I see that every shot was in Auto Exposure mode, and your metering mode varied some. Your lighting also seemed to vary from ambient to occasional flash, although I didn't see any utilizing TTL. I haven't photographed any food, but I've done some product shots for my wife's craft endeavors. As a starting point for a shoot, I would suggest the following: If you're having trouble matching your lens to the framing in a manner that suits you, consider a small telephoto, but from what I see, your 50 mm lens should do OK. Put your camera in Manual mode. You'll need to know more about the scene than your camera does. Set your metering to Multi mode. Use a good speedlight off-camera with an umbrella or softbox. A light stand for your key light, and a tripod for the camera. Have a white reflector or two to control the shadows. Set the aperture wide open for framing only. Set the shutter to sync speed, or slower. Set the flash on manual at 1/4 power, and face it into the umbrella. Now set the aperture to f8 or f11. You won't be able to see the shot well, but the flash is now essentially your exposure, shutter speed, and key light. Take a test shot and evaluate. Move the flash power and/or compensate it until you get an exposure that suits you. If you don't want to go so far as the umbrella, you can probably do well bouncing the flash and using a reflector or two. You also mentioned you're working in a small space. I find using Camera Remote works well when you can't huddle around the camera body. Once you get a composition and light coverage you like, make the flash power the fine tuning for the exposure. I don't see a scenario such that the flash will do a good job on-camera. It needs to be off. Did you get an EF-X8 flash with your camera? I find that little flash in Commander mode works extremely well triggering any larger flash with an optical slave mode. I hope this helps literally anyone, but I can't write more right now; I'm going to the OP's website to look at more food right now.
  17. 1 point
    Patrick FR

    X-Pro 3 viewfinder lightleak issue

    Did you get the camera back in teh meantime? I hope so... and sorry to hear about your issue with the x-Pro3
  18. 1 point

    Landscapes in b&W (open thread)

    Since there is no topic for landscapes in b&w, I thought let's create one... Cloudy day by #1923#, auf Flickr
  19. 1 point

    Landscapes in b&W (open thread)

    Another landscape photo in b/w dreary day by #1923#, auf Flickr
  20. 1 point
    Jose Carpin

    "Yangon Circular Railway"

    "Yangon Circular Railway" Yangon, Myanmar 2017 Fuji X-T2 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR + XF35mm f1.4 Instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Website: www.josecarpin.com 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
  21. 1 point

    Fuji Birds

    First post here - taken with X-T3 and the 100-400 lens with 1.4 convertor.
  22. 1 point
    Food photography is all about styling. Photography is simple, use a sturdy tripod since exposures can be on the long side, normal lens for natural perspective, f/8.0 or f/11 for adequate depth of field, base ISO setting. The Toit would do fine. Since the food is not in motion, there is no problem doing a four-second exposure at f/11 at ISO200. Unless you just can not get the whole image in focus, don't go much beyond f/11. Diffraction has already begun at f/11, though it is still not noticeable. Beyond f/11 it increases substantially. Do a test shot. If it is over or under, use the exposure compensation dial to nail it. The food is totally patient, so there is no need to rush while getting it right. Manual exposure works fine as well. Avoid wide apertures. Food really needs to be fully seen and shallow depth of field simply looks out of focus. Consider the background. Unless it carries with it some meaningful information, a bit of softness does not hurt. Of course, this nullifies the prime advantage of the 56mm, which is far more suited to photographing people where shallow DOF can be useful. If I needed the added focal length, I would trade for the brilliantly sharp 60mm f/2.4 which also gives you much more closeup capability. If you have not studied food styling, you will be amazed at the voodoo that goes into it. Most photographed food is inedible. That perfectly done turkey has been varnished the perfect colour and shine! Ice cream melts, so mashed potatoes or lard are used in its place. Ice also melts, so ice cubes and crushed ice is clear plastic. Sparkling vegetables have been sprayed with glycerine. Grapes get their patina via talcum powder. It is well covered on the web. Search for 'food photography tricks of the trade'. If anything the X-T2 is overkill. The images on your page are less than one megapixel. You are throwing away more than 23MP of detail. What could a more expensive camera possibly give you? If you were shooting food professionally, it is fully capable of display prints for use in mall food booths or restaurants, of enormous size and clarity. If you have doubts, don't take my word for it. Rent a dSLR and try using it and the X-T2 on the same setup.
  23. 1 point

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

    Hello, For my first post, I wanted to share some of my N.Y.C photos taken with my x-e2 ! 1) 2) 3) Have a nice day
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