Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I recently purchased a Canon 85mm F1.9 in an LTM mount for my X-T1 with Firmware 3.1 from eBay. 


 


It was in excellent condition.  A few observations:


 


- This is not a tiny lens but much smaller than the new Fuji 90.  Comparing the Canon to the new Fuji 90/F2.  Length 87mm vs 105mm; filter size 48mm vs 62mm; weight 21 oz vs 19 oz (yup the canon is heavier--it is a solid chunk of brass).  


 


- Handling is not great but acceptable.  The focus ring is very large and nicely dampened, and has a huge throw--probably 330 degrees.  Generally not an issue, but be prepared to take a few extra moments if you want to move from far to close.  The aperture ring is click-less and a little but not too stiff.   What's odd, is that when you focus the entire front of the lens spins--including the aperture ring.  The aperture doesn't change, but the positioning does.  So if you want to change the aperture you have to go look at the lens to find the current setting and then adjust.  A bit quirky, but nothing to worry about.  Close focus is about 1m.


 


- At F2.0 the lens is nicely in the center, a little soft in the corners, slightly low contrast.  By F2.8 its clearly up well.  Note, compared to the Fuji 35mm, it never catches up, but I'm more than happy at all apertures. I love how it throws everything in the background into a lovely blur.  


 


- Focus Peaking works well with this lens, but not as well as the Hexanon 50/1.4.  Still, at F2.0 with a tight headshot, I'm probably at 50% in focus at 1:1 in LR.  Maybe with practice this will get better--but that's my issue not the lens.  


 


- I do like this this lens, but it is silly heavy (1.3lb!) and will require that I get better at focusing.  But the results are very nice when done well.  


 


Here are some example photos  SOC untouched.  


https://www.flickr.com/photos/mdecorte/sets/72157654770015999


 


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
    • How does one make sure that Fuji's image correction is turned on to correct barrel and pin-cushion distortion on a GFX 100 or GFX100S when using the GF20-35? Is it only applied to the jpegs and not to the raw files? (I was surprised to discover the barrel distortion on the GF 35-70mm lens.) I normally shoot in raw with jpeg back-up and use the raw files, which I convert either in Affinity Photo 2 when editing with that program or in Raw File Converter Ex 3.0 by Silkypix if I wish to process the image in Photoshop CS6. (Adobe DNG is also a possibility.) Thank you for the help. Trevor
×
×
  • Create New...