Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Yep, and at least here in Germany, this ain't new at all. I have been reading this for many years: Expose film for the shadows, expose digital for the highlights.

If you're good at the zone system, I'm sure you can do great things with it. But for 95% of the people, the rule above is more than enough for film and digital.

 

I generally shoot all my film at 2/3 of a stop overexposed and metered for the shadows, and will push another stop in development if I'm not sure I gave it plenty of light. Exposing 2 or 3 stops over with film is no big deal...

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's interesting that even with digital, the ETTR (expose to the right) technique works. That's not to say that we can clip the highlights, as many have misunderstood.

 

 

Indeed, it's a common misconception, since you expose critical highlights to the right, which often results in an underexposure of the overall image (which is rectified during RAW conversion). That's how the DR function works, and it's how photographers with ISOless cameras work to maximize dynamic range. Nikon even has an ETTR exposure metering mode (highlight priority) in some of their ISOless DSLRs. It's something that I also want Fujifilm to offer in future models, so I discussed it with the product planner of the X-T and GFX series.

Edited by flysurfer
Link to post
Share on other sites

Indeed, it's a common misconception, since you expose critical highlights to the right, which often results in an underexposure of the overall image (which is rectified during RAW conversion). That's how the DR function works, and it's how photographers with ISOless cameras work to maximize dynamic range. Nikon even has an ETTR exposure metering mode (highlight priority) in some of their ISOless DSLRs. It's something that I also want Fujifilm to offer in future models, so I discussed it with the product planner of the X-T and GFX series.

And while they are at it please make a menu option to base the viewfinder histogram on raw values rather than jpeg.  This is because there is some ability to EBTR (expose beyond the right) if you are going to post process a raw file -- but it is pretty much hit and miss guess how far beyond the right you can get away with

Link to post
Share on other sites

And while they are at it please make a menu option to base the viewfinder histogram on raw values rather than jpeg.

 

 

Sure.

 

it it is pretty much hit and miss guess how far beyond the right you can get away with

 

 

Not really. I know my sensor and my RAW converter, so it isn't much of a problem for experienced users. 

 

RAW histograms are nice, but they still wouldn't show what your RAW converter can recover. RGB histograms are more important. Hopefully, we will get those in the GFX (I was told that it will happen).

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • agreed on the upload but based on the location and number it sounds exactly like the storage slot 1 status icon
    • All three of my bodies (X-E2, X-T4, GFX100S II) have shoot without lenses enabled and they have all had it set since I bought them.  No harm in it at all. Just remember to set the focal length when you fit a manual lens with no electronics otherwise the IBIS (if you have it) goes nuts. I regularly use vintage film lenses from Minolta, Zeiss, Mamiya, Rollei and others on my X mounts along with more modern manual focus stuff from TTArtisans. I also use Nikon AF-S lenses with a Fringer so the world is your oyster! Vintage lenses can be an absolute bargain too - For example the Zeiss 135 f/35 in M42 is as cheap as chips and very sharp as is the excellent Minolta 35-70 Macro (which is also rebadged Leica). 
    • I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • Hy there When Im using the fan001 on the XH2s and I flip the LCD Screen vertically by 180 degrees then the image flips vertically, what is good but it also flips horizontally. The clean feed on HDMI is not flipping horizontally but its also flipping if the HDMI output info display is on. When I unmount the fan then the image flips only vertically. My firmware is updated to the latest version. Any ideas if there is a fix for that?
    • In reply to the original question, it all depends on what you mean by infrared.  If you mean "see thermal information", then I agree with the comments here.  However, if you mean near-infrared, the X-T4, or basically any digital camera can be modified to "see" it.  Check out Lifepixel.com and Kolarivision.com for more info. As regards lenses, I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
×
×
  • Create New...