Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I have an Xt5 when using a XF 100mm-400mmm lense I have a slight blueish fringe around high contrast edges of the image.  Have I a faulty lens that i need to return to Fuji? I am not sure you will be able to see at this low resolution image.  Thoughts welcome.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

The bluish fringing is chromatic aberration.

It is a fact of life for photography, especially for high contrasty images taken with zoom lens, and quite often for images taken with zoom lenses set to wide open apertures, maximum or minimum zoom length in high contrasty scenes.

If you have software for processing images, or for converting raw images, look for tools that reduce CA, often called color fringing. With practice you may be able to reduce it to not being noticeable. There are lots and lots of tutorials on the internet about reducing CA.

If you only shoot jpeg images, try stopping the lens aperture down some, or kick the zoom back a little. CA tends to be worse at the edges rather than the frame middle for what that is worth.

Avoiding high contrasty scenes does work, but that is not realistic, so try to get it to the level where you can be happy with the image and do not lose sleep over it.

The CA in the image you posted is not bad at all, you almost have to start pixel peeping, with a little work you can get rid of it, Your lens seems okay, based on this shot.

p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Edited by jerryy
Link to post
Share on other sites

What jerryy said.

Couple more ideas: putting color filters in front of the lens can help. There are "straw" filters that look very pale yellow, which knock out the shortest blue wavelengths without changing most subjective colors much. Maybe somebody also makes a filter that knocks out the longest reds, also without changing colors much.

And, if you can play a little with composition -- I mean, if your subject lends itself to this -- you can orient the edges with the biggest brightness contrast to be radial in your image, rather than circumferential. Chromatic aberration only happens radially with respect to the optical axis (e.g. the photo center if it's not cropped.

I *think* there are many optical systems that are achromatic, specifically being corrected for two widely spaced wavelengths, that will tend to have green versus purple (red + blue) fringes. Picture a graph of the effective focal length as a function of wavelength, and these systems will be a smile or a frown. For some purposes (such as astrophotography) you can get much fancier and more costly optical systems that are apochromatic, corrected for three wavelengths, whose graph will slope up-down-up or down-up-down. Going beyond that, systems based entirely on mirrors have no chromatic aberration. I guess -- don't know this for sure -- that camera lenses using both mirrors and refraction, catadioptric lenses, could have less chromatic aberration than lenses without mirrors. These are generally fixed focal length, fixed aperture lenses. There are some 3rd party ones available for Fuji X, though I don't remember seeing any that are autofocus.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, catadioptric lenses wipe out CA from your images, they have a few drawbacks; the design means they start off at telephoto focal lengths with fixed apertures and there is a teeny tiny “hole” in the image middle (this is not a big issue, it is usually never noticeable, but it is there). They also tend to be a little heavy and occasionally need adjusting to keep the mirror part collimated. They give you pretty good images.

As I recall, Minolta made a catadioptric lens that could auto focus, this was taken over by Sony who still makes the lens for one of their bodies, but no one else makes one. There are several manual focus ones for Fujilfilm’s X-mount bodies.

Achromatic lenses do remove red-blue fringing, you can often find these types in those screw on macro-diopter lenses or in old box landscape cameras. But they have a problem with green fringing as it is not corrected at all.

To get all three fringings, red-blue-green, folks have shifted over to Apochromatic designs. These are found in high end telephoto camera lenses and more often in refractor telescopes — the triplet design. They currently tend to be expensive.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...