Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I have been reading tons of blogs about 2 mirror-less cameras. one is the Sony A7II and the other is the Fuji X-T1. I keep coming back to the Fuji, it just looks very comfortable to hold and I love the retro look and all the separate controls. The only thing that I keep seeing in blogs is the mushy greens for the Fuji sensor used. What I do not know is it on older Fuji models/sensors or also with the new X-T1 sensor. If so why is it and is there a particular way to not get it in the photos[other then not taking pictures of greenery] I want to get the X-Ti but am hesitant in spending the money and getting the mushy greens as I'm a big landscape photographer. I have tons of Canon high end camera equipment[1Dx, 6D, 70D and a lot of there L glass] and I do not have that problem with them. Any answers to help me end my worries will easy my decision. Oh I tried and have a X-M1 and kit lenses.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've definitely seen it in some photos online, but like Norseman said, it was likely an issue with how the older processing software handled an entirely new sensor with an entirely different demosaicing process.

 

I've had an X-T1 since last fall, when it was six months old or so, and use Lightroom 5, and I've never had any issues.

 

15561966676_d534096231_c.jpgPark bench by philbabbey, on Flickr

 

16870405774_8942f84fbe_c.jpgDSCF1461 by philbabbey, on Flickr

 

17993174670_ae88993a22_c.jpgDSCF0084 by philbabbey, on Flickr

 

17803153314_0df6cda6fa_c.jpgDSCF0052 by philbabbey, on Flickr

Link to post
Share on other sites

I want to thank you guys for the in depth amount of detail you showed to answer me. I wanted to get the X-T1 and the 18-135 lens as a walk around lens. Is this a good combo and will I get sharp photos from this lens. I have bought the 16-50 kit lens and also the 50-230 lens They seem to be sharp, but holding the camera out in the sun makes it difficult to see the LCD and less stable, so the X-T1 will help as holding to your eye will help stabilize the camera better. I'm assuming this series of lenses will be OK for a start till I can get some better lenses. I like the 50-15 new lens coming out so far. and comments will help ease my decision making. again thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I want to thank you guys for the in depth amount of detail you showed to answer me. I wanted to get the X-T1 and the 18-135 lens as a walk around lens. Is this a good combo and will I get sharp photos from this lens. I have bought the 16-50 kit lens and also the 50-230 lens They seem to be sharp, but holding the camera out in the sun makes it difficult to see the LCD and less stable, so the X-T1 will help as holding to your eye will help stabilize the camera better. I'm assuming this series of lenses will be OK for a start till I can get some better lenses. I like the 50-15 new lens coming out so far. and comments will help ease my decision making. again thanks.

 

To answer your earlier question about "mushy greens", yes earlier versions of Lightroom struggled to process Fuji X RAW files and could loose detail in things like grass and foliage, but since LR5 it's been a lot better. you say you already have the X-M1 which has the same sensor as the X-T1 so if you are happy with the greens from one, you will be happy with the other.

 

I have an X-T1 and the 18 - 135 zoom. Yes, it is a good combination but I tend to use the small additional hand grip on the X-T1 when using this lens or the 40 - 150 as they are both long and quite heavy. The 18 - 135 is a good lens for a long range zoom but there are always compromises once a zoom goes beyond 3x and I find it a bit soft and lacking contrast in dull flat light. So I use the 18 - 135 if I don't want to carry more than one lens (won't have time to change lenses, will be somewhere dusty, don't want the weight) but at other times I use the 18-55 which I think is much better, and the compact and light 50 - 230 XC which gives far better results than I had expected for the money. Of course when quality really matters you can't beat a prime!

Link to post
Share on other sites

To answer your earlier question about "mushy greens", yes earlier versions of Lightroom struggled to process Fuji X RAW files and could loose detail in things like grass and foliage, but since LR5 it's been a lot better. you say you already have the X-M1 which has the same sensor as the X-T1 so if you are happy with the greens from one, you will be happy with the other.

 

I have an X-T1 and the 18 - 135 zoom. Yes, it is a good combination but I tend to use the small additional hand grip on the X-T1 when using this lens or the 40 - 150 as they are both long and quite heavy. The 18 - 135 is a good lens for a long range zoom but there are always compromises once a zoom goes beyond 3x and I find it a bit soft and lacking contrast in dull flat light. So I use the 18 - 135 if I don't want to carry more than one lens (won't have time to change lenses, will be somewhere dusty, don't want the weight) but at other times I use the 18-55 which I think is much better, and the compact and light 50 - 230 XC which gives far better results than I had expected for the money. Of course when quality really matters you can't beat a prime!

 

To answer your earlier question about "mushy greens", yes earlier versions of Lightroom struggled to process Fuji X RAW files and could loose detail in things like grass and foliage, but since LR5 it's been a lot better. you say you already have the X-M1 which has the same sensor as the X-T1 so if you are happy with the greens from one, you will be happy with the other.

 

I have an X-T1 and the 18 - 135 zoom. Yes, it is a good combination but I tend to use the small additional hand grip on the X-T1 when using this lens or the 40 - 150 as they are both long and quite heavy. The 18 - 135 is a good lens for a long range zoom but there are always compromises once a zoom goes beyond 3x and I find it a bit soft and lacking contrast in dull flat light. So I use the 18 - 135 if I don't want to carry more than one lens (won't have time to change lenses, will be somewhere dusty, don't want the weight) but at other times I use the 18-55 which I think is much better, and the compact and light 50 - 230 XC which gives far better results than I had expected for the money. Of course when quality really matters you can't beat a prime!

I went to your post on flicker and I presume you did some saturation on you pictures. They do look good and fairly sharp. I'm still on the fence as to weather Fuji or Sony A7II  the Sony is FF and there is no crop factor. I have 2 full FF Canons 1Dx and 6D and a crop 70D and without a doubt the crop looses some if you do want to crop a picture Even thought the 1Dx is 18mp I can take that up to 24X30 and not loos detail at all. I like the look of the X-T1 and the dials. I just don't know. Oh I forgot, in the jpg from the X-M1 is get mushy greens not running through LR or PS just windows viewer. am I missing something. I also have the Sony a6000 and the picts are just as sharp as the X-M1, but no mushy greens. What to do , What to do? Thanks for the input and pictures for comparisons. I don't want to run everything through LR to get sharp greens in JPGs. i should not have to. Again, thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • Anyone out there have any experience/feedback on the Laowa 55 mm tilt shift? I’d be using it on the GFX 50s ii. 
    • Hi, I'm researching a gimbal to get someone as a present & they use a Fuji XS-10. I did a quick search of previous threads on gimbals but all of them seem to either get no replies or spammed by a link to an Amazon list. I'd appreciate any comments from folks who've actually used specific gimbals with the XS-10. I'm aware that some, such as certain models from Zhiyun, DJI & FeiyuTech either don't say that they are fully compatible with the XS-10 but other sites say they do work ok but some functions don't. It's quite difficult to work out which functions work & which don't. Thanks.
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • This was snapped during a lunch.  Total shooting time—a few seconds. We so often read that a proper "portrait" should be snapped with a longer than normal lens, a low ISO to get lots of detail, and have a soft light held up above the head, and slightly to the side. The key, in my opinion, is always carry a camera.  Have your camera available to capture candid, authentic photographs.  Available light, no posing.   This portrait used 2000 ISO, the lens wide open at f4, and 1/100 sec. to stop any movement.  I didn't even take time to compose—I just snapped.  I leave the "Face Detection" on unless I'm photographing a landscape or subject other than a person. The GFX100RF has the equivalent of a 28mm lens.  The large sensor renders fine detail even at fairly high ISO ratings.  And the drawing of the lens is just perfect in my opinion.  It was set to B & W, with slightly reduced sharpness and clarity (set in-camera).  Ideal for "portraits."  Now, for some subjects I will likely increase the sharpness and clarity to the normal setting.  The camera is new, and I'm still experimenting with it.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...