Delay between shots in single shot mode

[scott400]

I've watched many online reviews on the X-T2.  Please forgive me if this has been asked before.  On the X-T1, one of my biggest issues was that there was a big delay beween shots in Single shot mode (as compared to every DSLR I've ever owned.).  I believe that the camera is trying to refocus between shots.  There are times when I want to shoot multiple shots without being in Burst modes, maybe 2-3 shoots in close succession.  Does anyone know whether this has been addressed with the T2?  Thanks,  Scott

[Aswald]

Which lens are you using? Shutter speed? More importantly what sd card may you be using?

 

You may do better if you used a UHS II Sd Card. The X-T1, T2 and Pro2 utilizes type 2 cards and the write times are significantly faster.

 

As far as I know, the X-T1 does not have this delay issue.

[milandro]

Next to the type of card, much depends on the settings of the camera, mine is not experiencing this delay that you describe.

[milandro]

Patrick FR wrote.....

 

1) Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect).

2) Turn Off Face Detection! If you have Face Detection put to ON, the camera will focus only with CDAF. The faster Phase Detection AF (PDAF) works only if Face Detection is disabled.
3) High Performance Mode ON: many don’t even know that this features exists, like Calipedro here. It’s definitely worth to sacrifice a bit of battery life. Fuji should put this feature ON as standard.
4) Keep you subject in the center: Phase detection pixels are located in the center of the sensor. Keep your subject in the center and PDAF will give you a faster AF.
5) Use all Phase Detection Pixels with Zone AF 5×3: To take advantage of all the phase detection pixels, set you Zone AF box to 5×3 and place it in the center of the frame. Within this 5×3 box tracking will be very smooth… at least that’s my experience with my crazy dog.
6) Increase the size of the AF-box: If you use Single Point AF, increase the size of the AF-box as much as possible.
7) PRE-AF: The camera will continuously adjust focus, even if the shutter is not pressed (of half pressed). This can help to get the first shot in focus quicker. Downside: more battery drain.
8) LENS FIRMWARE: make absolutely sure that the lens is updated to the latest firmware version.
9) Different Lens, Different results: According to the lens you use, the AF-improvement will be more or less (or not) visible. For example, I was very happy with the improvement of my 55-200, but I can’t really say if the 18-55 or 14 has become faster.
10) The learning curve: Practice and get used to the new features. See what works best in which situation
11) Let Rico study for you. Rumors has it, that Rico will update his X-T1 book and tell us how to make the best out of our new Fuji X-T1 FW 4. Once it’s out, all we have to do is to read his updated book.

So, do you have more tips? Then share them in the comments.

And don’t stop to share your findings on Fujirumors and at the Hot Firmware threads of the Fuji-X-Forum.

enjoy your day… and FW 4.0 ,
Fuji X Forum, Facebook, Google+, RSS-feed and Twitter

 

 

Gil Barib wrote....

 

Here is a copy/paste of my X-T1 settings for sports from a previous post:

High Performance Mode is On,
Pre AF is On,
AF-Mode mostly on Zone, 5x3 grid or 3x3, and only the central PDAF points are used, I'll use Single Point if the subject is a busy pack of athletes to keep the AF from jumping from one to the other, it really depends on de type of sport. I dont use Wide, since it uses the slower CDAF points
Release/Focus Priority is set to Focus (both for Af-S and Af-C)
Face detection = Off
Eye detection = Off
Shutter on MS only.
AF is on Continuous and the Drive Mode is on CH (8fps),
My EVF is set to Normal, not Full
LMO is On (even if I'm shooting RAW only)
OIS at Off most of the time since I'm shooting with SS usually above 1/500 of a second, OIS at On (mode 1) would give me a stabilized view in the EVF, but I find it induce a little lag when trying to quickly center the subject in the af zone (that little white cross in the middle of your Zone or the Single point square)

I'm shooting RAW only with a 300mb/sec 64gb SD UHS II, no problems with the buffer.

I always aim and follow the subject, half-pressing the shutter while tracking it, keeping the white cross in the middle of the Zone on target, I'll then fire a short burst when the subject is close to the optimum distance/spot/framing.

The hard part is aiming during the black out, practice and anticipation is the key! 

Here is a important trick to get the best possible results: dont let the lens "wonder around"[

I got PRE-AF at on, so the X-T1 and XF50-140 are always trying to focus, if I take my eyes off the EVF and let the camera point to the ground it is going to focus there.
When I'll lift it to my eyes to quickly take a shot it is going to have to focus from somewhere like one or two meters to 10 meters (where my subject is), same goes with far-away backgrounds, dont let it go there! 

Make sure it's always around the right focus distance, aim at something close to your optimum spot or the place were you'll start your burst, the ground, something on the side of the tracks. 

By doing this, acquisition time will be faster and in my experience once the X-T1 gets tracking on a subject it won't let go too easily.

 

So for race type sports like MTB or Skiing I always aim at where the subject is going to come into the frame, a curve / bump/ feature by the path the subject should follow.

For more random sports like soccer or football it is better to follow the action in the EVS while half-pressing the shutter. 

The AF system on the Fuji likes to have a subject with good contrast too, I've shot enough speed skaters to notice a 

slight difference of performance depending on the patterns and color of the bodysuit (all black suits being the worst).

With the Single Point AF make sure the AF box size is: as big as possible but cover only the subject.

 

One last thing I kind of feel that the XF50-140 is a big part of the equation too...makes a difference, I did not try it but the XF90mm with it's quad Linear Motors seems good from the result I've seen.

 

The Flickr Fuji-X Sport and Action Group: https://flic.kr/g/quLzW

My Album of AFC Tracking examples on Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHsjVwSDVD

 

Good luck (and good light ! ) too you

Gilles

[scott400]

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I'm quite familiar with everything on the lists that you've quoted.  Point number 1 sums up my issue

​

"1) Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect)"

 

​The camera won't focus between each shot in CL or CH modes.  It does focus between shots in single shot mode (even when the shutter isn't fully released and kept in the "half press" position..  When switched to manual focus the camera is much quicker for successive, small bursts in single shot mode.  Focusing with the rear button helps to alleviate the issue as well. 

 

​Was hoping that the X-T2 didn't focus between shots in Single mode.

 

​Thanks, Scott

 

​www.scottaphoto.com

[milandro]

Still, I don’t seem to have the same problem.

 

MY X-T1 stays focussed on the same place until I depress the shutter button and then stays there until I point it somewhere lese and depress the shutter button again, in the meantime stays exactly where it was before.

 

My camera doesn’t refocus between shots. Of that, I am absolutely certain.

 

I am doing this as I type ( well just before).

Edited August 25, 2016 by milandro

[pete1959]

Yes. On the X-T2, as I understand it,  you can operate from half press shutter/focus lock thru shutter release and back to half press/shutter release again without re-focusing.

[scott400]

Yes. On the X-T2, as I understand it,  you can operate from half press shutter/focus lock thru shutter release and back to half press/shutter release again without re-focusing.

 

Thanks for all of the replies.  That is good to hear, Pete.

Scott