Jump to content

Wide Angle Lens for Interior/Exterior Architecture Photograp


Recommended Posts

Hello,

I am looking to buy a lens (probably used) for use when capturing interior and exterior architecture images.

 

I currently have the 16-80mm Fuji lens and tried a Fuji 14mm lens but found that in certain situations I need something wider than 14mm.

So considering the Fuji 10-24mm lens or a third party 12mm prime like the Samyang or the more expensive Zeiss prime.

I will be using it on my Fuji X-H1 camera.

 

Your thoughts and opinions?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi, since you mention architecture, along with interiors, I assume maybe you plan on shooting professionally?
If so, consider the option of refraining from shooting super wide all the time, as the 'wow' effect of super-wides often collides with the need of representing spaces or structures with a more natural identity. One very good option could be to buy a lens with a T/S (tilt/shift) or only S adapter ring to connect with your camera. You'll have to set the lens aperture and focus manually, but it's not a big deal; you would be able to include a detail in the composition or correct vertical lines without the excessive perspective effect of super wides. 
The Fuji sensor, the small ones, are so good that one can happily forget about FF and prime shift lenses and go the Frankenstein way with great satisfaction. One option to investigate would be coupling a Voigtländer Heliar 15mm with the XH1.
The Voigtländer is meant for FF so it would give you a sufficient portion of good image circle to shift around with. Some uses it on GFX cropping the sensor to FF.
Hope it can be 'stimulating', and not make things even worse...
😁
👋
 

Edited by Piero
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...