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I should have added that I agree that a long lens is not what you need for street. Street is not easy. You have to be bold and learn to get close. Not easy I know. The 70mm end of the 70-300 would be usable for portraits but if you want a zoom for that, a lens with 50mm in its range would be a better choice. -
I used to have the 16-80. Not the sharpest lens in the toolbox but sharp enough for most things. It's focal range is perfect for a one lens outing, but remember it's a 5 to 1 zoom and you can't expect razor sharp in a zoom with that range. I now have the 16-55 mk2. It's very sharp and a bonus for me when I am using my converted x-t2 is that it works well in infra red. The 16-80 is soft in IR.
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I agree. The 70-300 is a very sharp lens.
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there is a "power management" in the settings and then in the "auto power off temp." select "HIGH". In this case your camera will work a bit longer. It depends on temperature you are shooting in. Or buy official cooler FAN - 001 -
Having had an x-t5 for several years, I can honestly say that I have absolutely never encountered this problem. The only failures I see are when tracking moving subjects and even then not often. So, in my experience, this is definitely NOT typical for the x-t5. Certainly not for static subjects at least. Nothing to do with sharpness, but did you mean ISO 800? 80 doesn't make much sense with the x-t5. That would be within the extended range where you will get less dynamic range. Either you are doing something wrong or there is something wrong with your camera or lens. Do you have the release/focus priority for af-s set to focus? If not that might be the problem. Also, it is not a good idea to have the face/eye detection on when there is noone in the shot.
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