Jump to content

Switching memory card slots on the X-Pro2?

abonhamc
 Share

Recommended Posts

abonhamc Apprentice

abonhamc

Posted
Posted

I know I read in a thread somewhere that there is a button that you can hold down to change between slot 1 and slot 2, I just can't find it anymore. Going through the menu to change the slot that is being used is a hassle that I often forget to do which always leads me to think I am missing photos or accidentally deleted some at the end of the day. Can anyone shed some light on this mystery? Thanks.

 

Also, I like the goofy pull-n-twist ISO dial, and after reading the forums, I think I'm the only one.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
yankeeinlondon Newbie

yankeeinlondon

Posted
Posted

I've found that switching what card you're viewing in the "play menu" is not too hard and the two suggestions both work for me but I find that when I go back to shooting the change in the play menu has no effect and the camera seems to choose whichever one it favours (both in my case are essentially empty but I want to primarily use slot A for picture taking and B for backup)

Link to post
Share on other sites
Wing0949 Enthusiast

Wing0949

Posted
Posted

i think the question about switching between slots has been sufficiently answered.

 

I'll just add I also like the ISO dial on the X-Pro2.. however, I won't deny that the old way on the X-Pro1 by pushing a button and setting the ISO while looking though the viewfinder (or back of the camera) was both functionally and ergonomically easier... you just didn't have to move reposition your fingers as much.

 

Also, I find it will take some muscle memory to get used to the action of blindly lifting and rotating the ISO setting if you want to keep your eye through the viewfinder.. lifting the ISO high enough up so you don't accidentally move your shutter settings which can happen.

 

and, I wonder if it would have made sense to have added a clicking feel between each ISO setting instead of it being very smooth as it is.. I think that if it clicked like the shutter dial clicks, you could feel the ISO settings change and also know when to release the dial and set the ISO.. as it is, there's no clicking or tactile indication to let you know you've moved the ISO dial to an actual setting position and sometimes when you try to drop and release and set the ISO, it's kind of in between settings or otherwise needed to wiggle the ISO dial more exactly into position. In doesn't take much to do set the dial down in position, but I sometimes feel if it clicked into specific positions, then you could be certain and spend just that fraction of a second or so wiggling the ISO button down in place.

 

i know, also impossible to change this, but going to both points above about the finicky ISO dial, perhaps additionally, if the ISO dial when lifted where to stay in position when up, then you would both A) less likely be able to move the shutter dial because it is locked up in ISO position, AND, B) to move from one ISO setting to a more extreme setting would require less work as you could more quickly move the dial without have to lift, move a short turn as much as you can, drop the ISO dial, reposition your finger, and lift, move the dial down further towards your intended ISO setting.. When it's little change, not as big a deal, but when you want to go from say 200 to 3200, it can take several of those repeated actions to get to the ISO setting you want. and, once you reached your ISO setting, you need only press the center button to have it unlock from the ISO position and automatically snap back down into normal position (or other wise shutter adjustment position).

 

Otherwise, I still like and use the X-Pro2's ISO dial as is and think it's mostly cool and works.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 years later...
Fotomatt Contributor

Fotomatt

Posted
Posted
On 9/5/2016 at 9:07 AM, yankeeinlondon said:

I've found that switching what card you're viewing in the "play menu" is not too hard and the two suggestions both work for me but I find that when I go back to shooting the change in the play menu has no effect and the camera seems to choose whichever one it favours (both in my case are essentially empty but I want to primarily use slot A for picture taking and B for backup)

Yup...I tried this too and it went back to shooting on #2. As I mentioned, this occurred after I forgot to put card #1 in and shot to card #2. It's like it has now defaulted.

Fotomatt

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Fotomatt Contributor

Fotomatt

Posted
Posted (edited)

UPDATED...realize this is probably old news. I pulled out card 2 and took a photo. It defaulted back to Card slot #1. Very lame.

Did I mention I hate Fujayjay menus?

Fotomatt

Edited by Fotomatt
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • PoorAlchemist
      LUT doesn't works on resolve

      By PoorAlchemist · Posted

      I found the reddit topic i refere to :  https://www.reddit.com/r/davinciresolve/comments/1pc3f1e/cant_apply_new_fujifilm_gfx_55_lut/ "Update for y'all, It's just like what @ExpBalSat said, it's because of the backslashes in the names break them. I changed the file name and it works now. "   For me it was the solution. Realy annoying if it doesn’t work for you 😕  
    • Don Barar
      LUT doesn't works on resolve

      By Don Barar · Posted

      Here is the solution to using the Eterna 55 file simulation LUTs in Davinci Resolve.   In general, do not use the FLog2C to film simulation LUTs as they are not supported by Davinci Resolve for two reasons: 1) Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut Color Space and 2) Davinci Resolve does not support FLog2C gamma.  Instead, use Flog2 which is supported by Davinci Resolve.  Here is an example.  Let's say that you want to use Classic Chrome simulation.  Do the following: Complete your color grade and use a CST to get to Rec 709. Add a node.  Use a CST to convert from Rec 709 to FLog2.  Output Color space is Rec 2020 and Outout Gamut is FLog2. Add a node.  Apply the FLog2 to Classic Chrome LUT Create a combination node from node in steps 2 and 3. Apply a Key to the combination node and adjust the Key Output Gain to get the amount of the combination node that you want applied. So that you do not have to do this over and over again, generate a LUT for the combination node.  Remember to turn off all other nodes before generating the LUT. Hope this helps others. Don  
    • crazyfields
      Please save me from insanity 23mm f2 vs F1.4r

      By crazyfields · Posted

      Thanks for the insights. I think it's really hard to make a decision without having the two side by side! 
    • George_P
      Please save me from insanity 23mm f2 vs F1.4r

      By George_P · Posted

      I don’t have the 23 f2 but I have read several times that it is considered a little soft at close distance, compared to the 23 f1.4 lenses. These will also focus at shorter distance from the subject, esp. the new one. So that might make a difference. The new 23 f1.4 LM WR  has better resolution, esp. in regard to the 40Mpix sensors, which you don’t have on the X-T2. What practical difference that makes for the value of the pictures one makes is disputable and subjective.  f1.4 will gather more light but with a smaller DOF, which may be desirable in some situations but not so in others, depends. If you like to shoot close ups, you will probably use higher f numbers to get a bigger DOF. Same for landscapes. If you are a bokeh fan, yes the f1.4 lens are better.  The older 23 f1.4 lens that you are considering is a very good and respected lens. The f1.4 vs f2 aperture per se is perhaps not so important. The 23 f2 is very small, light and practical and a great lens for travel and landscapes. So, go figure. I am afraid I just sent you further down the road to insanity !
    • crazyfields
      Please save me from insanity 23mm f2 vs F1.4r

      By crazyfields · Posted

      First post here but long time fuji shorter. I use the XT2 with the 23mm f2 / 35mm 1.4 / 16-80mm f4 I'm considering the 23mm f1.4 r (Non-WR) About me: - I shoot black and white only. - I like macro details to wide open landscapes and everything in-between. - I shoot mostly for art, intrigue and creativity of the image. My question - is the 23mm f1.4 going to offer me any meaningful difference over the f2 for the above scenarios Thanks and sorry for bringing it up again...
×
×
  • Create New...