Jump to content

X-H2S and DJI Ronin RS2--Solved--Not So Fast


Recommended Posts

Hello All:
 

I recognize that the Fujifilm X-H2S is not on compatable list for Ronin RS2.  However, has anyone tried this combination using micro HDMI female to male HDMI?  Besides stabalization what works?  Most important to me are starting/stopping video recording and being able to adjust focus with the focus motor.

Thank you in advance.

Don

Edited by Don Barar
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hello All:

For those of you that are interested, I purchased an X-H2S and connected it with my RS2.  The only changes from using an X-T3 was that I used the included (with the RS2 Pro) mini HDMI to Full HDMI cable and set Connections on the X-H2S to Select Connection Setting/Selection 3: USB Tether Shooting Auto.

With the above I was able to connect the RavenEye to my iPad and see what was in the field of view of the camera.  I was also able to start/stop video record and alter aperture, shutter speed and ISO.  I also  successful used film profiles of Flog and HLG.

It appears for these items, that the FujiFilm SDK for the X-T3 is similar to that what might be used for the X-H2S.

Don
 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Don Barar changed the title to X-H2S and DJI Ronin RS2--Solved--Not So Fast

Well not so fast.  X-H2S firmware 1.03 everything worked fine for my needs.  Then FujiFiim updated the firmware to version 2.0.  Now, with USB Tether/Auto the record does not stay latched in.  However, there is a workaround.  Instead of USB Tether/Auto use USB Tether Fixed.  When you do this the first attempt at record will not latch.  However, a successive attempt will start movie recording.  So, if you want to use the X-H2S with the RS2 make sure you do not upgrade to FujiFilm firmware version 2.0 unless you want to use the workaround.

I spoke with FujiFilm Technical Support.  There is no way to roll back the firmware.  This seems to be the case with Sony as well.  I believe this to be dumb engineering.  If they break something with a firmware update you are screwed until the manufacturer issues a new firmware.

So three, big cheers for DJI.  At least you can roll back the firmware.

Judging the lack on interest in this thread, I must be the only idiot in the world that is attempting to make this work!

Don

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the suggestion about DP Review.

I am able to get by with the work around.  A little more patience on my part perhaps and it works similarly with the X-H2s set to USB Tether Auto and have to since returned to this setting.  Just a PITA as I have to hit record twice.

BTW.  Not any real interest on the DJI RS2 User Forum either.

Don

Edited by Don Barar
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Hi!

I have the newest firmware on both - rs2: v01.05.00.20, and fujifilm: 3.01 - and have the same issue 😕 You have to start it twice, to works once 😕 I can't imagine, why is it hard to put the x-h2s into the rs2, if all the rs3s can handle x-h2s. The Rs2 wasn't cheap, don't leave all the owners alone! Please dji, make an upgrate! Your last was more than a year!

 

Oliver

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Oliver,

Thank you for writing.

X-H2S firmware 2.1 was the best.  It did not require two selections of record to get the camera to record for more than a few moments--one selection was enough.  Version 3.00 and 3.01 has broken this and now requires selecting record twice as did firmware version 2.0.

Be careful what you wish for on DJI upgrading the firmware so that it allows of the X-H2S on the RS2.  In looking at DJI’s compatibility chart of the X-H2S with RS3 it does not do very much except start/stop record.  At least with the RS2’s current firmware, from the Ronin App I can also adjust the X-H2S' shutter speed, aperture, an ISO through RavenEye.

Don

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • HI Rufo, I have changed procedures.  I now use the colors space transform (CST) as my first node.  The CST is set up as follows: - Apply the CST effect to the first node. - Color Space is Rec 2020 - Input gamma is FLog - Output color space is Rec 709 - Output gamma is Gamma 2.4 All other nodes to grade the clip proceed the node that contains the color space transform. Hope this helps. Don
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

      Ohio River, Kentucky - Indiana, USA Ohio River, indiana - Kentucky, USA
    • Interesting, and a bit subtle. I also think it'd be better to activate on a half press. But there seems to be good reasoning behind a number of other choices, so I wonder if there's a good reason behind this one and we're just not seeing it. To some degree IS goes on and off like AF does, but this is an exception, isn't it?
    • I couldn't find my manual so downloaded a PDF copy and did some searching.  From p146 of the manual, regarding Shooting Only stabilisation: "Image stabilization enabled only when the shutter button is pressed halfway (focus mode C) or the shutter is released." So it appears that the camera is 'working as intended' and that in AF-S the stabilisation mechanism kicks in only as you release the shutter. I think I would prefer it to activate on a half press, like it does in AF-C.
    • Sometime a short break can help to phrase things so that they do not sound annoying, Well that is the hope anyway, so here goes. Having that meter would be nice as well as having the histogram. But having them or not is a minor consideration in terms of what you are wanting to do because the app does not work with intervalometers. The only way you can get a time lapse sequence using the app is to manually click the shutter button, wait then click it again and so on. Even if the meter were there, you would need extremely fast reflexes to see and react to a lighting change by changing the settings and then going back to clicking the shutter button. Doing that for hours would be a feat indeed. The equipment you mention does this by analyzing several past images and predicting what settings to apply to the next incoming image. Right now the app has the live view which will tell you if an area is over or under exposed, but as far as what you are wanting to do without being able to connect the app to an intervalometer, well …
×
×
  • Create New...