Jump to content

Recommended Posts

It had to happen some time that someone would copy the hugely expensive Thumb grip for the X-T1. 

 

Some of us had quickly noticed that the “ universal types”  suitable for rangefinder style cameras, don’t work on the X-T1 ( and wouldn’t work on the X-T10 too) , because of the “ hump” containing the EVF, where the flash hot shoe is.

 

All the Chinese copied which more or less fit on a variety of cameras, quite literally, fell short when it came to the X-T1.

 

Quite by chance, when scouring the net, I came across this “ fittest MZ-005’ which I believe is the first copy of the Thumb grips for the X-T1.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Actually you can on see that if it would be in place , I am afraid that pictures of the grip alone don’t provide enough references. I haven’t found pictures of this specific grip on the camera.

 

I will reserve my judgment on this product until I see it on a camera anything done before would be premature.

 

CNC machines however, once they have received the proper co-ordinates, copy things pretty much exactly.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can pretty clearly see the difference between the two in the image above. Look at how much longer that curved piece where you thumb goes is on the top picture (which is a photo of the Lensmate unit, BTW, not the "Fitttest"). That tells me the Fittest one would end just above the AE-L button rather than reaching to the exposure comp dial like on the Lensmate.

 

I can't be the only one that sees this.

Yes, it isn't a real life pic but I'd rather just buy the Lensmate one for $70 rather than a $20 piece of metal I won't use because it doesn't fit properly. I realized the one I mentioned in the other thread is the same as the one you're looking at except it doesn't have the branding on top.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand your concerns

 

Yet. Some other thoughts.

 

At the same time as this, on ebay appeared also some X-T10 models. These would need to be smaller than the ones for the X-T1 because that camera is smaller.

 

I know the Chinese attitude to publish photographs from other brands, or other types ( been there done that). So it is very possible that this that we are seeing is in fact a new contraption made for the X-T10 and unwittingly marketed also for the X-T1.

 

However , one thing is , in my view, for sure, the Lensmate is not the product of an high technology, whichever way one looks at it. 

 

As such can be replicated.

 

Maybe this is not the one, but ooner or later someone will.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...