Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

I'm new to Fujifilm and so far I'm enjoying it. I'd like to seek your opinion regarding my dilema.

 

 

My current gears are

 

XT1

18-55 2.8-f4

35 1.4

 

 

I still have a budget for an XT10 body. My question is, should I buy a second body or a new lens ?  

I shoot wedding by the way.

 

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never shot anything professionally, but done a lot of events, including weddings in other technical roles - and the first thing I'd do is add a backup to a critical piece of gear. So, second body first, preferably the same as the primary so you can put different lenses on each and grab whatever you need without swapping lenses and without rewiring your brain to a different button layout.

 

If you get by with the current focal lengths, I'd stick to them until you have that second body and whatever other gear you don't have today. Only then would I add to the available focal lengths. 

 

Again, I'm not a photographer, but speaking from experience as someone for whom it would be a catastrophe if a critical piece of equipment failed during a job.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you can shoot what you need at a wedding with the two lenses you have, I'd say get a second body. I only have one body right now, and on most jobs I find myself wishing I had a second. Add the fact that you never know what might go wrong, and a second body is a requirement for serious paid work.

Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for the reply Aswald

 

Anytime. ;)

 

For weddings I find that this works best for me.

 

Camera 1. Body + 24-70 F2.8 or 24 F1.4 or 35 F1.4

Camera 2. Body + 50 F1.2 or 85 F1.2 or 70-200 F2.8

 

One camera covers a wide perspective and the other camera have better reach when the chance pops up.

 

Unfortunately, most weddings I shoot are rather hectic. Apart from 2 cameras, there's sometimes a 2nd photographer.

 

However, I've also shot more intimate weddings where a single photographer and a single camera works very well.

 

I guess, based on the requirements of the type of wedding you shoot, you my be able to decide if a 2nd body or a new lens makes more sense for you.

 

I wish you the very best.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...