nibbler

I take a lot of wildlife shots around the world - Africa, Latin America - most recently polar bears in the Arctic. For birds I mostly use the XF100-400, anything bigger I use the XF50-140 - sometimes with the teleconverters. All with XT3s. This has been mostly successful, but the XT3 suffers from lack of ability to crop when printing large for clients. I sometimes wish for more pixels or a bigger sensor, I also hope Fuji will one day release an XF500... I was going to get the XF200 for its superiour light gathering capability and sharpness. I was also considering getting a Nikon Z7, but I hate the idea of using an adapter for F mount lenses and there are no Z lenses in my range (300mm+). Then, on my last Arctic trip a Chinese photographer was with us who had a GF250...and he showed me some of his shots... So, I am thinking that a GFX camera and the GF250 with the 1.4xTC could be a solution. Obviously I can keep the XT3s and XF100-400 for birds and other small objects. But the resolution and ability to crop due to sensor size makes the GF package very attractive - especially considering that the price of an XF200 is close to a GFX50R and the GF250. Plus the GF250 is much lighter than the XF200 (a big concern in my line of work). I would love to hear impressions on using the GFX50r and GF250 for wildlife from the community, before making the purchase.

The lens will always make the noise, whether OIS is on or off, whether you're in manual or auto focus.

Thanks, this is very helpful. I was using the 50-140 with the 2x and got very disappointing results. Bought the 100-400 and it is absolutely fantastic. Super sharp even at 400. I also bought the 1.4x but haven't needed the extra reach yet. I might have a bad copy of the 2x, but it significantly softened the images on my 50-140.

Without having scientifically testing this, I would guess no. There is drain on the battery in standby mode. In standby the camera is ready to operate at a click. Shut down it should not drain battery. Hope this helps.

Thanks! I guess I have to adjust my workflow 🙂

On my X-Pro2 I have a function button next to the shutter button that is set to video, enabling me to quickly switch between stills and video. I have not been successful in assigning the same functionality to the top plate function button on the XT3. Do I really have to use the left selector to make the switch, or am I missing something? It slows me down and requires two hands...

I submitted by X-PRO2 for this repair to my camera store in Switzerland (Geneva). They had to send it to the UK to get it fixed. Four weeks later I am still waiting for it to return. In the meantime I'm enjoying my original X100.

Thanks all for your suggestions - this is incredibly helpful. Unfortunately I cannot rent equipment where I live (Switzerland), so buying is the only option. Testing in store I thought the 100-400 was a bit long, especially on the short end, so I bought the 50-140 for the trip. I might add the 2x TC before I leave, but it is quite expensive.

Hi all, I am travelling to Galapagos for a few days, mostly to shoot animals. I have the 16/1.4 and the 35/2.0, so I figure I need a long lens. Will the 40-150/2.8 be sufficient, or should I rather get the 100-400? I could also add the 2x TC for the 40-150 if needed. Anyone been there and can provide recommendations? Thanks!

I just got my X-Pro2 this week, and have been enjoying Acros simulation for B&W conversion. However, I find it cumbersome to convert RAWs using the camera due to the size of the screen (e.g. testing different filter/grain/highlight/shadow settings). On the Fujifilm website they state: We also think that it is very unlikely that any RAW conversion software would achieve what "ACROS" achieves. We all know that there are excellent RAW conversion software in the market, but we also believe that the magic of X-Processor Pro is not so easily solved. While this is marketing, I wonder if others feel the same? Is the camera itself the best RAW converter when producing Acros files, or does Adobe and others do a sufficiently good job of replicating the film simulation (including grain patterns)?

This shot is spectacular! Where did you take it, do you have more to show?

http://photorumors.com/2016/08/18/fuji-x-a3-camera-and-fujinon-xf-23mm-f2-r-wr-asph-lens-specs-leaked-online/#more-83039 Fuji X-A3 24.3MP APS-C sensor LCD: 180 degrees tiltable 3" touchscreen Video: Full HD 10 advanced filters 11 film simulation modes Battery capacity: 410 shots Built-in Wi-Fi High-speed electronic shutter

I am still uncertain about these two. My heart says the 90 (shots are beautiful), my head says the 56 (more versatile).

Would really like a series of small primes like the summarits. The 35 f2 is a good start. Now make a 75 f3.5 and a 20 f4

Hi all, I am a frequent traveler for work and pleasure, and (while waiting for the new Fuji sensor) have decided to get the X-T10. I don't really like zooms, but see their value so planning to get the two XC zooms as a kit to cover basic needs and allow longer reach e.g. for wildlife, plus they are dirt cheap and light. For more serious stuff I am planning to get the 56, since the 90 is a bit too big. In addition the 35 and the 27 (small is beautiful). I have been considering a wide angle (14 or 16 or 10-24), but the XC zoom goes to 16 and I think five lenses is a good start (plus I'll add the MCEX-16 for macro). I know the two 2.8 zooms are great also, but too big for a small system. In the future I may add a macro, wide angle and tele if Fuji decides to make small lenses. The great thing about this system (16-50, 50-230, 27, 35, 56) is that it offers versatility and if I just want to go around with one lens, I have options. I also have an original X-100 but find it quite slow to use. Question to the forum - does this work as a general purpose set up with some portrait, macro, wildlife added? It there a better 5 lens combo without adding too much bulk and weight? Thanks!