pw-pix

I sometimes use a power pack (battery) to charge the battery in the camera via the USB connection.

T stops are a more accurate measure of a lenses light transmission, used for cinematography. You might have the camera in movie mode, or some other condition/setting has changed the display from F stop to T stop.

As BobJ notes, it probvably easier and better to stich multiple shots when you process the photos. Lightroom is easy and provides very good results. I'm sure there are other photo editors that can do it too. You'll get a bigger and better file from stitching multiple raw files.

In the Camera RAW module, Profile, Browse, look for the Fuji film simulations... I'm assuming you are already doing that, as it sounds like you see other Fuji profiles, I don't know why the ones you want are missing.

Factory reset of the camera. Repeated cycling of the flash beween up and down position. It's quite likely a fault, the microswitch or other sensor for flash position has failed or is jammed/stuck. You might need to send it in for repair.

More modern phones with USB-C seem to be able to do backups from camera/card reader to external USB drive with no need for a computer. I haven't tried this personally. https://petapixel.com/2025/05/11/no-laptop-no-problem-how-to-back-up-photos-in-the-field-with-your-smartphone/

The burst speed of the shutter is set by the CL and CH control on top of the camera, it is unrelated to the focus mode setting on the S C M control. The focus speed is not related to the burst speed setting. You might have been joking, but your post adds confusion.

Hmmm, I've noticed on my XF 150-600mm too, it's as if the profile corrections in Lightroom aren't properly matching the lens. I've not noticed it on any other lenses I own and use.

Do you have a film simulation in use for jpg? Does it have a Clarity setting? Any clarity setting other than 0 is know to cause processing/write delays when shooting jpg.

Don't use eye tracking for street. Just use a small area or single point.

Assuming still photography of a general nature; Aperture priority, set aperture to F8 or F5.6 ISO set to Auto ISO, range base to 6400, minimum shutter speed 1/100 sec Viewfinder screen set to show picture effect/exposure, histogram, blinking highlights and exposure information Focus set to AF-S with single point or area with 9 points Go out, make photos, see what's working and what's not, adjust to your own liking and use case.

Take it back to where you bought it and ask for repair/replacement, it seems to be faulty.

Perhaps try a factory reset as the first step (if you can manage to access and do that).

Do you perhaps have the touch screen set to take a photo by tapping or whatever the action is?

The X-T5 is fine for that sort of use with the current firmware, use it in AF-S and either a single AF point or a small zone. It's in AF-C that the issues are more apparent.

Factory reset, if you can get to that in the menus. Redo the firmware update, if that is possible.

None of the XF lenses I own have depth of field scales (so no hyperfocal marking). The X-T5 is weather-sealed and big enough (mine has the accessory MHG-XT% grip fitted) to use the longer telephoto zooms. I have the XF 70-300 and XF 150-600. I would say it is useful for wildlife photography (I mainly do birds), and roughly equivalent to the Nikon D500 in most situations. AF will be different and possibly inferior in some situations. The X-T5 will work well for street/landscape/everything that comes up. Fitted with the compact primes it's light enough and compact enough. XF 16/2.8, 18/2, 23/2, 27/2.8, 35/1.4 or 35/2, 50/2 are all compact and light and match well with the X-T5. XF 16/2.8, 23/2, 35/2 are all weather sealed too (as is the later version of the 27/2.8). I'm unsure about mount adapters and which adapted lenses give AF, EXIF, etc. I have a mechanical only Nikon F to Fuji X adapter, but it's only for an older AF 200/4 micro nikkor so I don't need AF/EXIF, etc.

You'll be asked to post in English. Hello, This is my first message on the forum. I come a little to fish for information to find the right way to buy. I'm looking for the lightness that's my Number One criterion, and then I'd like to know if Fujinon lenses have hyperfocal tagging? I'm looking for a camera to have with me all the time without thinking about the heaviness of the backpack. I went from reflex to hybrid at first it was all pink and then with the purchase of a little zoom my back quickly unduffering, for two days I haven't taken my backpack, yet a model not too heavy 800 g for the bag, I'm looking again. I think in time as Fuji photographs you see what I mean. I hesitate between several apn the Fuji X-T 5 / 50 / X-S20. The photos I want to take are street, landscapes and everything that comes up to me, preference to manual mode for 99% of my photos, not for the map. If in the pdv there is a little rain or spit I want to be able to continue making my pictures without having to put everything away. Then comes another photography theme that is wild animal photography, the question is whether one of these three apn is capable of doing this type of photo and of competing equal or greater with the Nikon D500. I know that the X-H2 series is capable of doing so, unfortunately it is beyond my means. On the objective side, I thought of 16-80 as a Swiss knife, with an 18mm and are there adaptor rings to come from another brand that work 100% for exposure data and map or not? Thank you in advance for your feedback. Cordially.

If you're using Lightroom (and maybe other software). you need to set it to download the raw and the jpg. Then you'll have thew raw (colour) with it's generated preview (also in colour), and the jpg (acros b&w) available for editing.

I'd be looking for a replacement lens (secondhand likely to be cheaper than a repair to your wet lens).

So, your 15-45 is broken/faulty. Take it back where you bought it for replacement.

Also, there's a setting "Shoot without a lens" that needs to be turned on for lenses with no contacts and adapted manual lenses, otherwise the camera won't respond to the shutter button when you have a manual/old/no contact lens attached.

So, the lens isn't focusing. What is the original lens you were using? Is the camera switched to an auto-focus mode? S or C

Is it just the images? Or is the information (shutter speed, battery level, etc) also blurred? Do you mean the viewfinder? Try adjusting the diopter setting. Have you tried a factory reset? I'm not sure how you'd do that if the screen is completely blurred. It sounds like the camera is probably faulty, take it back to where you bought it for them to assess and repair/replace.

It's not the phone connection via the app is it?