SGinNorcal

I dont think its a bug, just a change in default. Have you guys tried setting it up as I suggested? To me, having control of when focus peaking is on is better than the camera deciding. I switch it on and off as I need it with the F2 button, its very responsive.

I doubt it. if it was super cheap, it probably was an adapter to mount old Fuji lenses on new X bodies.

In Button Dial Setting, you can change the AF Lock Mode between either while held or an on/off switch.

I love Peak Design stuff but it is pricey. I have the Slide Lite strap and its great. The lock mechanism is pretty cool, making adjustments easy but secure when locked. But can't comment on sizing for what you will carry.

You can build your own custom setting under the IQ menu, Edit/Save Custom Setting. As far as I can tell, any camera function can be saved as C1, C2, etc. Then you can assign the setting you created to a button, like the Fn2. Pretty cool.

Hey John, you can assign it to fn2, I just did. First you have to set a custom button setting. Go to the IQ menu, scroll to Edit/Save Custom Setting, select the number you want, C1, C2, whatever, then pick MF, focus assist Off. Then go back to the Custom Button menu, hold down Disp/Back until it comes up. You can now assign your custom setting to button Fn2. It works perfectly as a MF Focus Peak on/off button and reacts immediately. Thanks for bringing this up, it is nice to have and I didn't think about it before.

I use V60 Lexar Pro 270MB/s without issues.

You could set the fn2 button on the front of the camera up as an on/off button for focus peak highlight. That button is placed to be easy to use when you are looking through the viewfinder. I would think you would get used to it quickly.

I would assume that the reason the aperture ring isn't marked is because its a variable aperture lens. Same as the 70-300. So yah, the 16-80 solves that and I prefer using the fixed aperture lens/marked ring as well. But I accept that for the 70-300 not to be a giant, heavier lens, I have to live with it. The 16-80 really is a nice lens despite the bashing it seems to get. But I'm not a pixel peeper type, I'm still impressed with the quality of all Fuji lens when I do my part.

I'm not a filter expert at all. But I don't really what "most situations" would be that involve an ND filter. The ND seems like a specialty filter to me. What is it you want to use it for?

So...what do you think? I'm assuming you cancelled the rest of your day to go try it out.

Sorry, fat finger. Meant AF-C - auto focus continuous

1) I'm no expert at the focus modes but I believe "bird" is just a fine tune to help it track birds. I would still expect you would need ASPC to track a moving bird. 3) Keep in mind that Image Stabilization is for camera movement only, not subject movement. I would use to help steady your motions but you still need the appropriate shutter speed to get the motion blur or not that you want.

In theory, any USBC device is going to work. You charge at the speed of the slowest device. If you get a battery rated for 5v/3amps, that's 15W of power and should charge your phone and camera reasonably quickly. If you want to power a laptop with a USBC charger, you will need more power and compatibility is not guaranteed. I would still but a battery from a reputable manufacturer though rather than the cheapest Amazon version.

Ok, I freely admit my sense of humor stop developing at 12 y/o so I found this funny as hell, even if it was just and accidental mis-spell.

I initially use uncompressed then switched to Lossless when I heard there was no degradation in quality. I never noticed a difference in processing speed. There might be one but not enough for me to notice.

I have no experience with the Anker 633. But I do use a Nitecore NB10000 Gen 2 power bank and I really like it. It has similar power storage but weighs 5.3 oz. and is small and durable. It has 4.5 the power of Fuji X-T5 batteries yet weighs less than 2 of them. I'm a backpacker if you wonder why a few ounces matter to me.

The Z9 is a $5,500 camera, you really feel that the X-T5 should match it? Nikon isn't even going to include that feature in the $4k Z8 now.

I like all these lenses mentioned but if I didn't have the 10-24 and replaced that with a prime, I would want the 13mm Viltrox or 14mm Fuji. Or maybe even the new 8mm Fuji. But not everyone loves ultra wides like I do. If you don't shoot landscapes, the 16mm is probably wide enough.

On a budget, hard to imagine to a better portrait focal length than the Fuji 50mm F2. Its still sharp wide open so consider if you need something faster. If you had that FL covered, then possibly the 70-300 zoom would suit you if you need more reach. The 55-200 is great, but best in the 55-150 range, it falls off a little at max zoom. I don't think there is a truly bad lens in the Fuji lineup so go with the FL's that work for you.

I don't have any information but I think this would be a tough one for Fuji. The new XF8F3.5 at $800 has had some push back on price. I would imagine a 23/35/50 f2 "mark II" would be at least $600. With the originals plentiful at half that, is anyone going to buy a new, improved version? Any improvements aren't going to be game changers, just fine tuning. We can dream but its hard to see a business case.

That is exactly what it looks like and adjusting white balance and tint helps, but I don't feel I can match the original for richness of color. I downloaded a trial of Affinity, recreated this Pan and export from Affinity, imported to C1. It does seem to bring the color more neutral but not with the weird tint. Just played with color a little and it does seem to be an improvement. If C1 can't fix the issue, this may be my solution. Thanks Jerryy!

I'm attached two screen shots to show the problem better. This was a simple two shot Pano with 121726 as one of the originals, 122713 is the Pan. Both originals have similar color with ISO, aperture, SS, exposure, all the same. The preview of the stitch looked great, but when processed has the weird tint. The sky and the soil in particular, just doesn't look right.

The latest C1 that I purchased has Panorama functionality and I would prefer to use that and not multiple pieces of software. I have read C1 suggestions for adjusting light fall off to improve stitching and to that end, it stitches very well w/o lines between images, things commonly seen in low-end Pan software. It just that some of my Pans come out with screwed up color across the entire frame after stitching. I've struggled to match the color to the original, individual frames even using straight out of camera files that are exposure matched when shot. Some of the Pans turn out really well, I would just like to accomplish that every time.

Thanks, it looks like Affinity might be my best option. I don't really want another piece of software and the more complicated work flow but it might be necessary until C1 fixes their software.