Sandro_gsp

For a normal macro focus stacking session, I usually shoot about 50 Raf files, to be later processed in order to create the final image. This is fine when I'm outside with plenty of light, but indoor I must use a flash. With electronic shutter my camera is able to reach 20 fps in Raw mode , 15 when using mechanical shutter. IMO this means that when focus stacking my flash should be able to provide at least 15 flashes per second, all of them with constant power. Almost impossible. Alternatively , I would like to be able to set a delay from 1 shot to another. But unfortunately in the settings I can only specify 0 seconds delay, or 1, or 2, or 3 ..... and so on. No way to set -say- 1/4 of a second. ( to get 4 Raw files per second, instead of 15) . How do you guy manage to solve the problem ?

ooohhh I just checked ... you are right ! anyway for old pictures, the Exiftool or photolab9+FilmSImulatioPack are still necessary.

I have always used Provia, Astia, or ProNeg but I noticed since forever that the Fuji auto white balance seems to be heavily biased towards a "yellowish" tint. For 99% of my pictures I have to tweak the white balance temperature ( K ) down by 200, 300, or 400K , in PostProcessing. Today, playing with different kind of film simulation , I run across the "Reala ACE" simulation. My camera is the X-H2S , and the RealaAce is not natively available.. But I can force the "RealaAce" code inside the Raw file (using Exiftool), or I can use Photolab9. With big surprise I discovered that Reala Ace renders the colors in such a way to look more faithful ! To be more precise, I can say that the white balance recorded by the camera looks perfectly fine. No need to tweak it. I tested pictures taken outside my window, and I checked the results forcing the RealaAce inside Exif and/or playing with film simulations provided by Photolab9+FilmSimulationPack. Is it only my impression ? Has anyone compared the White balance effect with different film simulations ?

my 16-60 was sharp enough at 16 . Noticebly soft at 80. From 50 and up I would notice lack of sharpness. I ended up trading it for a Tamron 17-70 . I know... I know..... sounds crazy ..... but in my opinion this lens is sharper.

the "clean" command is enough ( and it takes few seconds) . I think I know what happens : every SD card and every cf-express card , come formatted by the factory. Reformatting them is not enough : the partition table is kept. Most probably the partition table (the first sectors of a disk or Usb card) are prepared by the factory in a way not always accepted by windows. The diskpart "clean" command simply remove all partition information, so that when you format the card again, a new partition table is created, compatible with windows.

I haven't had any problem with my XH2s and CFexpress card, but I struggled for almost 1 year with a 256GB SD card . To cut it short : I finally solved the problem formatting the SD card using windows DiskPart command. I think the key was removing everyting from the SD card using the "clean" command. Diskpart is rather technical, I hope you can understand how to use it. Search google for : "diskpart erase partitions" Hope this helps.

Actually x-trans sensors are supported by Dxo . You can use the denoising DeepPrime3 , or XD/XD2 Only the newest XD3 is still to be released for gen5 fuji sensors. And anyway the chromatic aberration removal is amazing, and is valid for any denoise method. (Afaik). As a result I can process problematic 51200 iso pictures . In comparison up to some time ago I would not dare going beyond iso 6400. Now extended isos are just as good ad 6400 iso few years ago. It's a 3 stops improvement !

Recently Pure Raw 5 & Photolab 8.5 introduced 2 new denoising features : DeepPrime3 & XD3 X-trans The latter is specific for X-trans Fuji cameras My first tests show a fantastic chromatic aberration reduction ( I would say : total elimination). The effect is particularly noticeable at Iso 25600 and 51200 . Now these extended iso are a completely viable solution for low light shots. !! As for the luminance denoise, there is DeepPrime 3 , but unfortunately XD3 x-trans is not yet available for gen5 sensors ( i.e. my H2S is not yet supported) I would like to share opinions with other fellows, and the processing parameters used.

wow ! You are right ! Using Xapp I've been able to upgrade the firmware. Thank you !

I downloaded the new 7.0 firmware from the Fuji site. Apparently it's the 6.0 version. Or so it is reported during the upgrade process. Where/how can I download the 7.0 firmware ?

only yesterday I came across your post. Thank you so much for enlightening me ! I had tried many solutions before : ACR, Capture1, Xtransormer and few others. I had never considered DxO pure Raw. Wow : It's a game changer ! Up to 25600 Iso the results are perfectly fine (not only acceptables!) ! Could you believe it ?

> I do find stabilization to be really helpful and find it pretty reliable to push the rule of thumb to half of the focal > length and still get a clear photo. indeed it is helpful ! But not to the extend they claim. I'm not a sniper but I don't have shaky hands either. I feel confident to about 2 or 3 stops gain. 6 or 7 stops are pure fantasy (maybe sometimes, when you are lucky, if ever very specific conditions are met... and so on) . Not for a regular use.

>You mean the Marketing people were stretching the truth? Inconceivable! ehehehehhhh ! "television always says the truth" . Something like this 🙂 >But it’s down to the individual photographer to ascertain how much compensation they can actually achieve. I would rather say : it's down to everybody to decide how much shakiness he accepts ! Btw : that fuji web page only explains how the stabilization is achieved. There is no mention on how they pull out those fantastic numbers ! Anyway : I feel sure down to 1/30sec . 1/15 sec with some care, 1/8sec with more care. Going beyond is like hoping to win a lottery. I might have great expectations, I know... samebody less fussy than me can use 1/4, 1/2 or even 1sec. Good luck !

I came to the conclusion that Image Stabilization stops are blatantly overextimated. At least for Fuji camera and lenses. recently some lenses are advertized as having 6 stops IS. See the XF16-80 for example. Fuji H2S boasts up to 7 stops !!! Is it realistic ? To me it is not, it's far, very far away from the reality. Let's take a 35mm FL , a very common and appreciated kind of lens. The FullFrame equivalent is about 50, so the golden rule is : use a shutter speed at least 1/50. To stay on a safe side let's say : use at least 1/100sec Now , 1 stop advantage gives 1/50, 2 stops 1/25, 3 stops 1/12, 4 stops 1/6 , 5 stops 1/3, 6 stops 1/1.5 second. Crazy. Impossible ! Is there anybody in the world able to shoot hand-free at about 1sec shutter speed ??? Not even a sniper, IMO. Is any of you able to go out and shoot confidently at that crazy shutter speed ?? Of course many will say : that shutter speed is not necessary, and I agree, but that's beyond the point. The point is : is that possible ? Who can really do it ? who can shoot safely all the times (or at least the majority of the times) at about 1 or 1/2 second ?? And this leads me to a conclusion : the advertized Stabilization stops are totally deceiving, a blatant marketing hype, and a great exageration. I wonder how they are allowed to do it !

it happened to me as well. My H2S wouldn't work after firmware update. Luckily I found a trick : just remove the SD card, and it will work again ! After that of course you can reinsert your SD card.

Does the in-camera focus staking work with the XF60 ?? Today I tried with my X-H2s , I set focus stacking as manual , step5 , seconds 0 , shots : 40 Just in case something might go wrong I repeated the shots with seconds 1 (1 second from one picture to the next). At home I downloaded the picture into my computer, and I discovered that the focus did not change from the first to the last picture ! In short : is focust stacking possible with XF60 ?? (apart using some rail, of course) ?

I had a similar problem with a X-S10 . When I put the dowloaded file in a 32MB SD card, everything went smootly. I suspect a 32MB SD card is formatted Fat32, while with higher capacities exFAT is used . Give a try!

I had already downloaded the files again. And I had tried again. This is what worked: I put the downloaded file inside an (old) 32GB SD card. Maybe a 128GB card (formatted exFat) is not supported for the upgrade process.

I discovered there is a new firmware for X-S10 : the 2.30 version. For the first time the new firmare does not seem to work : when trying to update I receive the message : "New Firmware is Broken". Am I the only one ? Has anybody received the same message ?

that's exacly my finding, without a spectrometer. In my Raw processing routine, I always have to lower the Kelvin temperature by 200 or 300K . SOmetimes even 500K !!!!

>There is no such thing as wrong white balance, Not really. try this : 1 - take a picture of something outside your window, in different conditions and at different days and hours. 2 - put the pictures in your computer and compare yourself what you see. i.e. : look at the picture and look outside the window. --------------- my point is ; the fuji white balance is way too often wrong, because it's different from the reality I see. I don't say "bad" , or "unpleasant" , that would be subjective. I say : different from the reality.

Currently I own an X-S10 , but in the past I had several different Fuji Apc-s cameras. Every camera showed a noticeable WB shift . I.e. in Post production I have to lower down the Kelvin temperature by 200 al least, often down by 500 , to get a natural look. The worst was the X-Pro2. Also the X-H1 had the same problem, although less blatant. Before you tell .... no ... it isn't my monitor . I have a Flickr subscription and I see a lot of pictures made by other fellows around the world. No other brand show the same WB shift (towards the yellowish area). But a lot of Fuji cameras do show a lot !!!!! To the point than I can tell if the picture has been taken by a Fuji camera just looking at the (wrong) white balance. Has anybody ever noticed this effect ? btw : no big deal .... I can live with it. I'm still an happy fuji user.

ok, thanks a lot ! At least I discovered how to fix it ; using "shooting only" as Ibis method. It saves quite a lot of battery, too !!!!!

do you mean the problem has been fixed in X-T4 and X-S10 but not on X-H1 ? Did you do any test ?

I didn't chang the front switch ( S/C/M ) , that's for focusing: I changed the stabilization setting ( Ibis ) : from continuous to shoot-only. This wrong behaviour shows up only with my Zoom lens, not with my prime lenses. The tests I did today were shooting a tree in front of my windows , no wind at all. And I discovered that pictures taken with shoot-only are wharp, while with continuous Ibis are not. This problems is with every exposure time from 1/500 sec. down to 1/30th