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jwascher

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  1. Take a look at Andrew and Denae on YouTube as Andrew goes through most of the Fuji lens' and gives a good review of them. He has been a Fuji shooter for about 4 years. www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKPqiIY69TM&t=498s
  2. Herco's advice is well thought out. I have an 18-135 that is my standard go to lens. Being WR so good outdoors regardless of weather has been very useful. For wide angle shots, travel in old cities/towns and landscape, the 10-24 is an amazing lens. Recently I picked up an 80mm f/2.8 and have been blown away at the great portraits as well as. the Macro side of this lens.
  3. Yes,sounds like you are in Manual Focus and seeing the detail of the AF zone.
  4. As to your travel lens, I use both my 18-135 as a great "do-it-all" lens. It is Weather sealed so good in any weather condition and has both wide angle and tele capability. Also, on my trips to European cities with narrow streets, I often use the 10-24mm lens to be able to get the shot of buildings and statues from short distances. As to portraits, I go the Fuji 80mm and love the portrait ability. Very sharp lens and have taken many great portrait shots. Also, have done some macro with the lens of flowers and they are terrific. Lots of choices I know, but good luck. If you go to YouTube, Andrew & Denae have this www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKPqiIY69TM&t=497s where he talks about all the Fuji lens.
  5. I have the 100-400 that I use for sports, Lacrosse and Football on my X-T2. I do use a mono-pod since holding the combined weight for an entire game seems just too much. The 100-400 is great for this type of shooting, and with the enhanced focusing on the X-T4, should be a real killer combination. Not sure what you are shooting, so hard to say how that all fits. I do find that the 100-400 is too powerful sometimes as the action gets too close to where I am standing. You can set the auto-focus to only go 5m to infinity or the full range, but at a loss of focus speed. I usually have mine set for the over 5m minimum and most of the time that is fine. Also, what do you plan to do with your finished shots? I post mine to a team share site on Shutterfly, so cropping the shots to just the area where the action is does not create a problem. if you are trying to print on large size paper and therefore need more of the megapixels, then the tele-converter may help, but with 25 megapixels, you can usually do a lot of cropping.
  6. I went through the look see process, but I have so many pictures in Lightroom (over 200,000) that I didn't want to switch. I came from Aperture on a Mac and switched to LR went Aperture was discontinued. Rather than switch to Capture1, I went to importing my RAW shots with Iridient X-Transformer into DRG files, and then imported the into LR. What a difference! Iridient is about $40 one time purchase, and now I have all of LR and Photoshop available. I love the sync ability of my photos with my iPad and iPhone, and have even edited some of the pics on my iPad with great results. Anyway, if you have concerns about leaving LR and shots you have already stored there, try Iridient for your fuji shots.
  7. I would second the recommendations of Herco. Asking what lens to buy is a difficult question without knowing what kind of photography you will be doing. The 18-55 is a great lens and gets very good reviews from many Fuji users.Once you learn what kind of pictures you like taking, it will become obvious to you what lens you are missing, telephoto, portrait, wide angle, etc.. Enjoy the Fuji platform!
  8. Matt, I have this lens and have taken many thousands of shots with it, mainly sports pictures. I'd say that somewhere in the high 90% of the shots are tack sharp. I use AFC, IOS on and off, and hold the lens and my X-T2 on a monopod. Some of the games are at night with stadium lighting and many are in bright sun and have no issues with sharpness. Seems like your lens needs to go in for service.
  9. i don't have the 50mm f/2 but I do have the 23 and 35mm f/2 ;ens. I believe they are all made on the same frame. My two lens do not rattle at all when shaken. You probably do have a loose element.
  10. I use this lens frequently. The thread size is 77mm.
  11. The second and third photos, you are shooting at wide open Aperture settings, giving you a narrow focal range. Also, the pictures show the subjects moving fairly fast toward the camera. I would suggest you change your focus setting to "C" so the camera will track the moving subjects. Also, I like to shoot at f8 to f11 to get a wider focus area. I would think those 2 changes should result in better focused shots. i shoot a lot of sports shots and let the ISO float while keeping the Aperture and shutter speed set. As andrei89 replied, you are shooting ar=t pretty high shutter speeds. I would think that a 1/250 should have been fast enough to stop the action. I use my 18-135 lens as my go-to everyday lens and have been very please with the results. Not sure what the issue with shot 1 is with the waterfalls. You said you were only posting part of the shot. Are any parts in focus? Again, using the higher f stop will get more of the detail into focus. If you are at lower shutter speeds, I would always use the OIS. Having it on usually only gives problems a tri-pod at long shutter speeds.
  12. When I travel, I find the 10-24mm and the 18-135mm zooms to pretty much cover everything I want to shoot. You might want to take your 23mm lens for shots in the hotel or boat you may be on, but the 18-135 is my go to lens for its wide range of zoom. the 10-24 is great in older cities where the streets are narrow, or trying to get that shot of a cathedral without having to back up a block. Both of these lens do a great job.
  13. I have the 18-135 lens with and XT-2. As a walk around travel lens, it hits all the basis. Maybe not the fastest lens, but for a walk around travel lens, I would have a hard time beating it. The 18mm is wide enough for most situations, and the 135 comes in handy for many situations. A 16-80 would also be a great lens, and f/4 isn't too bad. I shoot a lot of sports with my grandsons in Lacrosse and live with the 100-400, but that is probably way too much glass on an XE3. Traveling in old cities or for landscape work, the 10-24 is great also. Good luck on a choice. You can rent a lens for awhile and try it out to see if it works for you also.
  14. I use this lens on my X-T2 as a good "walk-around" lens with it's wide range. Certainly have had no complaints on picture quality, and the weather resistant and OIS is great for this. Not sure how it would stand up to picture quality requirements for shooting a commercial. The 50-140 might be a higher quality choice in a zoom. How long do you need to get?
  15. I have both the 23 and 35 f/2 lens, and while I like them both, for travel, I don't think there is enough difference to make these your only 2 lens. For travel, I find my 18-135 to be the most flexible/useable lens for whatever situation you find yourself in. The 18-135 is weather sealed and IOS, adding to the versatility whenever you are out and about.
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