etomcat

Make sure you have not dialled in exposure compensation ( although you would notice it). What mettering mode are you using? That could happen if you have used point metering with lock to focus point activated and you have focussed on a bright object. It is obvious, but you have no polarizer filter attached? Lastly, try resetting the camera.

Thank you. I stumbled across this article . The reviews of the wifi SD cards are somehow mixed, but may give it a try.

Wow. I thought GFX at least will have better wireless connectivity.

Just found this page which kind of explains it. Looks like Fuji is not recommending using wifi tethering with RAW. I think that kind of defeats the purpose of the tethering. How many people will shoot JPEG in a studio?!? http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2_v21/peripherals_and_options/wireless_tether_shooting/#introduction

I played today a bit with the wireless tethering and found it extremely slow and unreliable. The transfer speed is extremely slow to a point that makes it unusable. The camera has less wireless sensitivity than my iPhone. I need to be literally close to the router to make it work. At one point the LED on the back started to flash only red and I was not able to control the camera anymore. Even to shut it down. I had to take out the battery. Never had this happen with v2.0 of the firmware. I couldn't find if the camera supports 5GHz AC or just 2.4 N, but as it did not see my 5GHz network it looks like it does not. I think that is a must with the volumes of data the camera needs to transfer during a shooting session. At the current stage for me at least wifi tethering is just unusable. Save to PC feature is in the same corner. Transferring of a single fine jpg took perhaps a minute if not more. It is not my wifi as I have ASUS RT-AC3100 which is quite fast and I have no slowness issues with any of my other devices on the same network. That is sad as that was the feature I have been waiting the most. Has anybody been able to successfully use the wifi features yet ? By successfully I mean with usable speeds. What is your experience ?

I think both cameras are very similar and you would get same IQ in most of the situations. I would suggest you check what are the differences in terms of features between both. If you are sure you will never need / miss any of them, then go with T20. If however you are not sure and you think what T2 offers over T20 is valuable and nice to have down the road then you should go with T2. If you are starting with the Fuji ecosystem, over time you will be investing in lenses anyway. However, if you have no short term plans to buy a second body, you will be "stuck" with whatever you buy first. At least for a while. That is what I would do. A month ago I went with T2 kit (+ XF 18-55). Like Elisha I try to spend as much as I can, for what I would need to start, in the beginning. I added XF 55-200 and battery grip. Good luck

Thank you

Thanks for replying, Lelle Kidd Was it loose from the beginning or it developed by using the lens? Did you have to send the camera or the lens or both?

Try the button that changes the EVF / LCD modes (on the right of the EVF). I think there is a mode that when using the EVF will show picture review on the LCD. I do not have the camera with me right now to check...

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1263624-REG/fujifilm_16528470_np_w126s_li_ion_battery_pack.html

Ok, I just checked my camera. L battery shows 3 bars and R has full 5 bars. Both are were charged about a week ago and have been sitting in the battery grip. I have no battery in the camera body. Are you using original Fujifilm 126S?

Does it show the batteries fully discharged (red batt. indicator)? I never remove the batteries from the grip and haven't noticed such behaviour. They do go down by few percentage for few days. I will check what is the charge when I get home . Last time I charged them was perhaps a week ago and played with the camera few times, not much. I do not keep / use a battery in the camera body. Only 2 in the grip. I do not want to remove the grip to get that battery out and I do not like the idea to charge the battery inside the body.

That could very well be the cause. Actually, it is in Rico Pfirstinger’s latest book “The Fujifilm X-T2: 120 X-Pert Tips“. Check Tip 24. Link to the book: http://www.rockynook.com/shop/photography/the-fujifilm-x-t2/?ref=12/ Here is the part explaining it: "Canon-compatible flash devices (e.g., flash units or radio transmitters) can lead to an overload of the X-Pro2’s processor and result in overheating (you’ll see the related overheating warnings if this happens), so there’s reason to believe that the X-T2 may also be affected. It’s caused by incompatible Canon/Fuji TTL flash protocols that are routed through compatible flash contacts, as described in the previous tip. This problem can even occur when you are using your Canon-compatible flash gear in full manual mode without any expectation of TTL exposure control. You might want a simple trigger signal, but what you get are colliding protocols with adverse side effects."

Be careful with Nikon flash on Fujifilm camera. I read somewhere that Canon flash causes overheating issue. Not because of wrong voltages (although that may also be true) but because of different protocols - the chip in the camera receives command it has no idea how to process and (most probably) on wrong pins which leads to increased chip temperatures. At least that was the explanation. I am also interested in this. I have a flash left from my Nikon setup (Metz 50 Af-1) and am looking for a way to use it with my X-T2 ...

Thank you

hildasea, Thank you for all the details. I just downloaded the trial and will give it a try. I currently use Luminar which supports Fuji RAW, but I do not like how it process them. The sharpening and the noise reduction algorithms work fine on Nikon RAW, but on Fuji produce this watercolour effect. Guess it is not really optimized for that sensor. Otherwise I like its interface approach.

Thank you

Thank you,

I do not think that is at all possible. At least not with that lens, if it is not introduced as a feature in the firmware. AFAIK, focus and aperture are "by wire" - electronically controlled. Even if the aperture ring has hard stops. One way perhaps is to use a fully manual lense from another brand with an adapter and set the camera to shoot without lense - e.g. Nikon AF-D 50mm f1.8. It has an aperture ring which is mechanically attached and controls the aperture.

Jlmphotos, I am also a glass wearer. Do you find the bigger eyecup more comfortable ? I was thinking to give it a try...

Thank you, jlmphotos. Looks like a "normal" thing then. I was a bit worried if it is something with the mount. Thank you

Thanks for the reply lleo. Perhaps, it is by design then and not just my copy.

Nice photos! And Thanks, for sharing

Hi, Do you know if something has been improved in the the raw processing or just to support compressed files? Do you like the output? I saw some comparisons between different products, Capture One being one of them and I was not impressed by how it processed the raw data from X-Trans. I actually liked Lightroom output more. I may have to download C1 and give it a try. Thanks for the update

Is that with the glas on the viewfinder or the rubber around it? I haven't used the camera outside yet, so haven't had an issue with dust on the glas, but the rubber is like a dust magnet. I may try to clean it with some rubber safe anti-static solution. Another option is to try some tirth party peace. It might be less dust prone if made from different material . So quite a lot offerings on eBay the other day.