miguel

As you all know once bracket exposures has been set up in the Drive menu, you turn the Drive dial to Bracket, press the shutter once and hey presto it takes 3 bracketed images. If you keep your finger on the shutter, the camera sounds like its continually firing a motorised sequence, brilliant I thought, motorised bracketed exposures, just what I want. But alas, when you check your sd card you only have 3 exposures, not the 10 or more you thought. Is this me or is it normal on the xt2? Without a firmware upgrade is there another way to motorised bracketed exposures? other than prodding the shutter rapidly. Michael

We now have two forms of tethering? The new one to Adobe which has lots of facilities but IMHO is of little use to the majority of Fuji users because it is not a Remote Wireless package. Who wants to be using cables in this day and age. Studio photographers will like it but how many studio photographers use Fuji cameras. I shoot a lot of wildlife and would love this package if it were wireless, being cable is no use at all. The existing Remote Wireless app does not appear to have any enhanced facilities. It functions well for me but it is very limited. No motorised function is a killer, one frame at a time. If fuji cant give us a motorised exposure function, perhaps they can allow us to set the Brscket function to allow 3 or 5 frames to be fired with on press on the remote ipad. I did try this but alas no joy. We now have a new locking facility, well I can think of much more useful enhancements than this. As a wildlife photographer and I am sure there are plenty of us wanting to use the fantastic XT2 for this purpose, I use the 100-400 zoom. OIS is no use on the high shutter speeds one needs for birds in flight etc so I normally aim for high shutter speeds, about 4 times the focal length minimum with this lens and employ AutoIso. A really useful upgrade would be to increase the selectable shutter speeds in Auto ISO to 1/1000 and 1/2000 and I could shoot with a bit more confidence. If Fuji read this forum, how about opening a topic and inviting your loyal customers to make suggestion for future firmware enhancements. Its a great camera, lets make it even greater.

I contacted my VPN supplier who does not have a fix for this problem. He did say the VPN can cause lots of conflictions. Hiaving given it more thought its probably of no benefit to have the VPN on when the fuji local network connects. Its just inconvenient having to remember to keep switching it off.

I too would be interested in pics of the modified version Michael

I have just been testing the new version of the wireless Fuji remote app. Everything seems to work except I have a VPN app on my wireless connection and this stoos the wireless remote from connecting. Disconnect the VPN and the remote app works fine. Can you fix this Fuji please

If Fuji were to make the minimum shutter speed lens dependent, can they gives us the option of choosing the multiplication factor over the lens focal length. Fixing it at the old fashioned way of 1 x focal length just does not work these days. I always try to shoot hand held at 4 x focal length as certaing pros advocate and it works

Not being a lightroom user I checked the Lightroom web to find a plugin called Show Focus Points. It looks good but it only works for Nikon and Canon, not Fuji Xt

Hi Millandro, You say lots of programs do that, I cant get Bridge, Photoshop, FastRaw viewer to work, which Pro applications can you suggest. The lenses I use are the latest electronic XF ones and I dont focus and reframe. I was advised its a bad idea on fujis lenses as they are flat field and perform better if you do not reframe after focussing,

Hi Bill, I must be having a bad day, what is RFC? Michael

Hi, I normally shoot RAW plus Jpeg on my XT2 and process files in Photoshop and Bridge. In these two programs or any others, is it possible to see my actual point of focus superimposed on the image? Also do any of these Programs show when OIS has been used? Many thanks Michael

If Fujis listening, could we have an option on the Auto Iso for minimum shutter speeds of 1/1000 and 1/2000 if possible. 1/500 is not fast enough to cope with the 100-400 zoom. Michael

Hi Rand, Can you recall the review you mentioned?

XT2, 50-140 zoom used at 140mm end at f4, min shutter speed 1/500 Been testing the focus tracking facilities of this combination. Subjects used in tracked, people walking, cyclists and a tramcar moving around city centre. Using OIS on and off, single point 3x3 focus, 5x5 focus plus zone focus, 5 and 8fps the results are very good. More in focus shots without OIS in general. The shots of the tramcar coming towards me are excellent, 90-100% very sharp but when the tramcar is going away from me, the results are really poor, Most are reasonably sharp, nothing I would want for keepers and not a patch on the sharpness of the others where the train is coming in a direct line towards me. I have only tried AFC Custom mode 2 which should be ok, anyone any ideas? I tried the same with cyclists going away from me with similar results.

I was wondering if any one else had done any tests with OIS on shutter speeds greater than 1/500 and locked down on tripods etc. The old rules for OIS said dont lock the camera down and do not use OIS at sppeds greater than 1/500 second. After some quick tests this is what I concluded with the XT2 and 50-140 set at 140mm f2.8 ans OIS ON. I didnt have a tripod handy so I weighted the lens down onto a solid wooden table to make it as rigid as possible. At 1/40 sec pics were biting sharp having shot 20 images. Same combination hand held outside, I used a shutter speed of 1/4000 with OIS on and then Off, when compared on a 30 inch Apple monitor I could not see any difference in a total of 20 images. Comments would be appreciated Regards Michael

Hi Adam, Thanks for trying this out. I too will do a similar check. It would work better for to identify the actual focus point if the sensitivity could be reduced further than the Low setting. Regards Michael

Hi Adam, I am confused with this problem. If the part in focus is immediately behind the indicator, is this the dof wide open or at F16? When I use the 35mm lens focussed at about 15 feet the area in red extends to infinity. I would be very interested in anything else you can clarify on this subject. The main reasin I wish to use this function is to verify that the focus point selected by the af-l button in manual focus mode is accurate Regards Michael

Hi, Thanks for the reply but mine does not display a greater dof at smaller apertures. I focussed on some lettering on a cereal packet on my table. At f2 or f16 the Red peaking colour does not change at all. If you have an XT2 could you please try that for me. Many thanks Michael

I must confess to knowing nothing about focus peaking so I set up my XT2 with peaking in Red - low. With a 35mm f2 lens attached and f2 selected, I noticed that the area shown in Red that is supposed to be in focus was greatly exaggerated when compared to the image viewed on my monitor in photoshop. Also the in focus area highlighted in Red did not change at all when I changed apertures to f16, is this normal? Does it only register Red at the max aperture of the lens? Michael

I read an article the other day that said Apples IOS10 has a peoblem with Fuji wifi that does not allow connection the first time you try to connect, its ok the second time. Apple are going to release a fix.

Hi, In the Button Dial settings, change the Shutter AF setting to OFF see page 224 on the downloadable manual Michael

Hi Kim, Tried out your suggestion, why do Fuji do it like this. In AFC mode if you move the camera back and forwards on, for example, a newspaper, at f16 it hunts for focus, at F2 it manages to stay locked on the majority of the time. AFC appears to lock much quicker than AFC also. As an ex Nikon shooter I always used the Back button , what I called the power focus of AF-ON. I have set up the XT2 to work the same. AF-ON is assigned to the front Fn2 button because I find it easier to depress and the button sits well in portrait or landscape mode. I can fire the shutter with my first finger, focus with my second finger and move the ficus point with my thumb. At the moment it seems to work well, need more time to test. I had considered the power battery pack but it weighs 330g, I can carry another lens instead. On the plus side, its an excellent camera, the resolution is superb, comparing it with my ex Nikon D800. I only use Raw files which are first class, I do think Adobe could make them even better with updated algoriithms. I shot some night portraits the other day at 6400 asa, with a little noise reduction in ACR they are quite amazing. If you are the type of photographer ( which I am not ) who is happy to display his pics on a nice big monitor only, then set Aperture Priority, ISO Auto with max sensitivity of 6400asa, minimum shutter depending on subject, 1/125 with fujis shorter lenses is sufficient on non moving subjects and fire away concentrsting on composition and the ideal moment. Sorry to rant on. Michael

I have just tried my XT2. The aperture stops down in AFC and AFS when focussing. An earlier post said it stayed open in AFS? Are we saying that in low lighting AFS is more accurate focussing? and the camera focuses more accurate at wider apertures? I have noticed in most lighting levels that when set to AFC the focus can hunt around the focus point, this could simply be me moving slightly with a hand held camera so I tried locking it down on a tripod. In AFC at F2 on a 35mm lens in my kitchen, early evening light, when the shutter is held ½ depressed by a cable release, the camera focuses with the smallest AF single point set, the focus square goes green, then changes to white? After a sec or so it goes green again then changes to white. It will not lock on green and stay there even though the focus point never changes, any idea why this happens? Michael

I have just tried my XT2. The aperture stops down in AFC and AFS when focussing. An earlier post said it stayed open in AFS? Are we saying that in low lighting AFS is more accurate focussing? and the camera focuses more accurate at wider apertures? I have noticed in most lighting levels that when set to AFC the focus can hunt around the focus point, this could simply be me moving slightly with a hand held camera so I tried locking it down on a tripod. In AFC at F2 on a 35mm lens in my kitchen, early evening light, when the shutter is held ½ depressed by a cable release, the camera focuses with the smallest AF single point set, the focus square goes green, then changes to white? After a sec or so it goes green again then changes to white. It will not lovk on green and stay there even though the focus point never changes, any idea why this happens? Michael

Hi Tom, One learns everyday, thanks for the info Michael

Hi Tom/Nick, Forgive me if I am wrong but we seem to be talking at cross purposes here. I am asking you to switch ON the shutter AE setting in the Setup/Button Dial settings menu. This will allow you to see the anticipated shutter speed when you ½ depress the shutter. Hope this clears your problem. This has nothing to do with the AE-L which I never mentioned. Michael