Florian

From your description, it seems to me that what you want is to disable auto focus. The auto focus function of your camera lets the camera focus the lens. I suspect that what you are seeing when you half press the shutter button is that the camera is focussing the lens. If you do not want this, you have to set the camera in manual focus mode. Also: some lenses override the camera setting of the manual focus mode. For example, if you have the 23mm f1.4, you must slide the focus ring of the lens towards the camera to shoot in manual focus. Manual focus assist functions are to help you better check whether the lens is focussed as you want it to be, for example by providing a zoomed in image, focus peaking, or both. Though the assist function can exaggerate the in-focus sharpness of the image on the EVF/LCD, it will do nothing to change the focus. So, the areas of the image which are out of focus will remain so (when in manual focus). Edit: might be helpful to know, which lens are you using?

If focus peaking is enabled, what you're actually seeing are the white lines indicating the in-focus area. When you half-press, those disappear (I think this is done so you can see whether the camera is metering light correctly)

You answered your own question More serious answer: you're probably just unlucky enough that your hand naturally presses the button in question when holding the camera. Using a thumb grip may solve your problem.

If I remember correctly, the t10 has classic chrome film emulation mode, which the E1 certainly does not have. On the other hand, the E1 has the same x-trans sensor as the x-pro1 (x10 has the second generation), which many people (see the x-pro1 boards) swear gives a certain 'organic feel' to the images.

Wow, hadn't realised they have gotten that cheap. Mightily tempting to get one as a dedicated manual focus camera next to my good old x-pro1...

Would be curious to know the actual failure rate of the ibis in those cameras. So far, the anecdotal evidence seems to be that it's quite low; but that still leaves the possibility of it breaking down earlier than the other components as the cameras age. (any info on the older cameras with this feature?) There is, of course, the battery usage, cost and size/weight argument, but I'd like to see more info on what the increases would actually be when implemented.

Hmm, had not realised that it would be possible for banding to occur with a plane shutter. However, it seems to me that it would be a much rarer occurrence. Interesting, in that specific case the banding would be linked to the speed of the shutter as opposed to the shutter speed

It's one of the major reasons why we still have mechanical shutters; disable electronic (silent) shutter and the banding will go away.

I've read at multiple forums that Iridient Developer is considered by many to be the superior solution for processing fuji raw files. There is a demo available on their website, so you can check for yourself to see if you prefer it or not.

Right! Who needs this newfangled technology! Why, back in the day painters took hours, days, or even *months* to create images, they were not whining about the speed, they were professional. (Sorry, couldn't resist ) As for camera speed for the topic starter: my experience is with the x-pro1, but probably the E1 will be the same. Right after taking the picture you will not be able to use the digitally zoomed image for the manual focus aid until the shot has been saved on the SD card. This may be annoying if you shoot raw (or jpg/raw combo) and if you want to take a shot, refocus, shoot again in one fluent move, since saving the image takes a few seconds, breaking the flow just that tiny bit. I don't know how well other cameras handle this specific situation and shooting without refocussing is no problem thanks to the camera buffer.

Apart from the click-bait headline, which is easily corrected with an "as we know it" added, there's not much there to be outraged about imo.

My impression is that any x-series camera design is entirely focussed on stills, only adding extra video features after the hardware design has been fixed. In the case of the x-t2, the bulk was added for improved autofocus and continuous shooting, the 4k video only added because it could be done within that bulk. I suspect that's also why Fuji has a less than stellar reputation for video on their cameras.

First thing would be, as suggested before, to fix camera position using a tripod, possibly also use a shutter remote to make sure you're not moving the camera by pressing the shutter. Second thing I'd recommend is using the camera's manual focus. Using red coloured focus peaking should be ideal for your use case. If you still prefer to let the camera make the decisions for exposure, set it to spot metering and use the exposure compensation dial. However, you did buy this nice bit of expensive equipment, one of the main features of which is that it allows you to change the camera settings easily when (as all cameras will) it does not make the decisions you want. I recommend making use of this feature. You don't really need a lot of time, take a few hours to research ISO, aperture and shutter speed and how they affect the image and to play around with those settings for a bit, even just a basic understanding of these settings should be helpful and will improve your photography in all situations. As a starting point for your specific use case, I'd recommend setting ISO fixed to some value in the 200-800 range (200 for sharper image, 800 if you want to set highest dynamic range), aperture fixed (this depends on lens, though I'd guess a value in the 4-5.7 range), and varying shutter speed to get the right exposure.

Hmmm, from what I gather of your use case I suspect overuse of the zoom-with-your-feet-method might also not be such a good idea because of safety considerations

Having the x100s, which has a similar (or same?) lens, I suspect that the opinion may depend on the flash-less low-light usage. 23mm f2 simply is not up to that task im-no-so-ho. Since you are going to be using it for landscapes mostly it will be perfectly fine, with the caveat that sometimes you can get an extremely nice deal on the f1.4, due to its size and it being slow at autofocus.

To me it looks like there's some bad jpeg compression exasperating things, which is very strange given that the image is 1.4MB.

Have been rather happy with the Takumars on my x-pro1: 50mm f4 macro and 105mm f2.8 (K&F concept m42-fx adapter is fine) The 50mm is radioactive, so you do need to take care not to store it under a cradle. Alternatively, there's some other threads on this forum on the helios 44. These option should be well under $100 or even half that.

Which is a fine test if all you are going to do with the screwdriver is tightening one or two screws once in a while . This rather obvious truth, however, is all that the test demonstrates.

Meh, not so much the rather obvious truth that one does not need the latest, greatest and most expensive tool to get the job done well. The test you linked to, however, proves next to nothing. It is like performing a test run of screwing in two screws in pre-drilled holes to demonstrate that manual screwdrivers are just as good as powered ones.

Hardly surprising, especially the first shot where, probably, even a midrange smartphone camera could have done the job. The question is, of course, how often one gets to use the camera in those ideal circumstances.

To keep things consistent put in the real focal length, this matters because the number you put in is what will be put in the exif data and fuji uses the real focal length (for the fuji lenses) there. Note that this number does nothing else, like distortion correction, etc. You need to change those corrections in the same lens settings.

I've never read the image quality of the x-trans III sensor being a downgrade compared to II. Even people who complained that the x-trans II lost some of the `magic' of the x-trans I are saying that the x-trans III's `magic' is much closer to the first generation than the second gen. (X-T1 has second gen) Note that this is completely subjective, since the technical specs are definitely way beyond earlier gens, so I suggest comparing images to see which one you prefer.

Of course, buybuybuy! Disclaimer: I'd like fuji to be around for a long time Now, on to the honest comments: compared to the interchangeables the x100 series does handle differently. You may have noticed this when comparing to the E and think this may not be the case with the pro series, but I suspect that even compared with the pro2 shooting with the x100t will feel different.

Because one can get equally amazing, but different looking, options off-brand? There's decades of lens production to try and it's a delight to experiment with the different lens and film simulation combinations!

That is rather strange, I would be leary of buying a new fuji in Brazil again. If you can't get a third party repair service, maybe get one second hand when the f arrives, prices should drop considerably on second hand s and t's. (maybe to the point of being cheaper than a repair anyways)