voodooless

That is no argument against, and it won't be slow either if done right.. It only means it is a bit more work to implement.. just like a good AF algorithm. I guess it just is not a priority for them.

No, I already checked for all of those things

They would not need to to that. If you zoom past JPEG preview resolution, they could simply de-Xtrans the part of the RAW file that is shown on screen and apply the saved image display settings. It should not be to hard to do, and not need to cost a lot of memory not processing speed..

The sensor latitude is in the darks not so much in the highlights. So expose for the highlights. You can pull the darks a lot in post. Dynamic range might be a bit better until ISO 3200, above that value, it's about equal. Still would be good to give us some examples though..

Yes, that is normal. Has to do with the 4GB file size limit of the FAT32 file system.

I guess what you are referring to is color grading. It means that the camera records a very flat image with little contrast so you can capture the highest possible dynamic range. Then afterward you'll need to color grade the video to get the look you like, either realistic, or "filmic". It takes some skill and time to do. As already mentioned the Sony camera's can record in a flat profile on camera. The X-T2 can not (yet). You can approximate it with the settings above though. On the other hand, if all that is to much work for you, I think you will be very pleased with the X-T2, since it offers a vast range of preset film simulations and settings you can change to already get a nice looking video without much work afterward.

Okay, so now let's assume for a minute you're me, and I (you) did all that.. .. now you go out, and want to take a picture of something. You look though the EVF and see that you want to adjust the exposure. So you turn the front command dial, see the exp. comp. in the display changing, but the exposure stays the same .. Now this does not happen every time, it is a rare occasion, and I think it might be connected to my other exposure issue of which I posted a video earlier.

How would displaying the exp. comp. make it all good (I have it enabled by default anyway already)? I would be really interested in that section of the manual..

For RAW, don't use auto DR, Lightroom had a bug that prevents it from reading the correct DR value and applying it. That might be one of the problems? Other things you might try: set shadows to -2 (might also try highlights at -1 or -2), that should bring them out a bit more. Also, set the color space to the default setting. But yes, a sample image would help.

Well, my first answer is the correct one. They both use 100Mbps, so the same amount of time for both settings.

You cannot set the recording quality, only the resolution/fps. The bitrate in (almost?) all cases is 100Mbps.

Well, the thing is that that 80's amp and speakers will probably sound better than the crappy Sonos boombox, and you can probably objectively measure than as well. Contrary to that, camera sensors only get better every generation. That might just be evolutions, but it does add up in the end. The rest are just fancy features, like the streaming stuff you get with your Sonos. You'll also get more of them at every evolution. In the end, every one needs to decide how many evolutions he/she wants to skip. .. Still hoping for a real sensor revolution .. Bring on the organic sensor Fuji/Panasonic!

Well, You can always argue about the money, but fact is that all new serious cameras have a fairly high price tag (Olympus anyone?). I came from a X-E2, and do love the upgrade despite the few problems I have (which might even be lens related). The AF is much faster (accuracy could be better though), AF-C is actually usable. Image quality wise it's not that much of an upgrade, but we knew that already. I do like the ergonomics better, and the bigger EVF is also a plus. If you already have a X-T1, the upgrade might be a bit smaller. And with flash I do not have any problems up until now (Nissin i60a), just waiting for HSS update. In the end, everyone has to choose for him- or herself.. you can always wait for a new Firmware. At leasst you know that the X-T2 will probably get some significant updates, the X-T1 won't. That's also factored into the price.

No worries I do appreciate the input! BTW, I think there are worse problems.. What about all those people that have freezes all the time. Have not seen a lot of them return the camera, and a fair amount of them are pro users. Anyway, yesterday with the XF35, no problems so far. I will keep it on a bit more.. we'll see.

I agree about the money. I do really want a good working product. I don't want to send something back that is working perfectly well however. I did swap lenses obviously, but did not really notice it popping up with the others, either because it did not occur, or because it did occur and though: oh, there is that bug again. I get used to that quite quickly I guess.. So consciously I did not register. So I'll need to recheck and then actually trigger myself whenever it happens again, like I did yesterday. About the moon: true, but there is always one side of the moon in (relative) darkness. It's just not always the same side

The thing is, I don't earn any money with it. I have it for fun, so I'm not in a hurry. I still have several years or warranty left. I don't make thousands of images every month, and don't have the time to experiment around a lot. This issue only pop up rarely, and quite honestly I cannot see how I could relate this to a hardware problem with the body. And for the rest, I like it very much, so don't want to part with it if it is not needed. So no, I'm not going to send anything back until I know what I need to send back (no, it was not a kit), specially not around Christmas time. In the meantime I'll see what Fuji support says about the issue.

In this case XF16-55. Will try with XF35F1.4 today. Meanwhile I went back to the shop and showed them the video. They agreed that this should not happen, but they could not say if it was the body or the lens. I also contacted Fuji support directly to see if they can help. Will report back obviously.

I'm not sure.. In the case of the video it was in the morning, and I was directing the camera towards the sun (which was still behind the trees). I also think the scene needs to have a fair amount of dynamic range. Oh btw, I was in AUTO ISO (1/125 200-12800), and aperture priority. Edit: it just happens again.. don't ask me why.. what I could find out was this: - DR setting does not affect this - changing the aperture does: in this last cast, the effect was only visible at f2.8. When I turned the aperture smaller, the problem went away. - turning the camera off and on does not help

Yes, I have seen that, but that's not it (I was using sRGB already anyway). This happens even before I take a picture, and is highly dependant on lighting conditions. So it does not show up all the time. Regarding settings, I can give you the highlight of the things that I think might influence this: - metering mode: does not matter, they all do this - preview picture effect is "on" - EVF brightness is at -1, but had it on auto before - Film simulation. Have it on Provia at the moment, but I don't think it matters, have also seen it on the other modes - DR is either off or DR200, I don't use auto. If there are more settings of interest, let me know. I will try a reset this weekend..

No, the sample size is far to low... One Adam does not make the world (well, maybe once he did ). So would love to hear for other people if they noticed this as well.

Well according to Adam this might be normal behavior.. Even if not, I cannot imagine it beeing a body hardware issue..

Well, then I'd first need to know that it's actually faulty, and not my own stupid mistake.

Well, there are a few things that bother me here. I've made a video that exactly shows the problem. Now you'll notice a few things: - initially exposure looks good - When I half-press to focus, the image looks overexposed - this happens in ALL metering modes So my question would now be: what is the use of the histogram? If the exposure changes after I half-press the shutter, and the histogram is gone in the newly exposed image.. then what use was the previous histogram? It clearly does not represent the image that's I'm about to take. And note that it does this in any and all metering modes. I checked them all, it does not matter. It can also go the other way, so a half-press under-exposed the image. Or it can be fine.. it al depends on the scene.. Oh, and another puzzle would be the exposure itself, why use ISO 10k and 1/125 at f5.6 in daylight? The actual image taken a few seconds later is at only ISO 3200 (and DR200).

What lens did you use? I think the firmware update did improve things to the point where the unsharpness is jot visible anymore in the viewfinder, but still apparent in the end. Also I think I have less sharp images now... Last time 4 out of 5 images were blurred with 16-55. It's most apparent on the long end of the lens. I hope to have some more time next week to do some controlled tests and also with the X-E2. I might then decide to send the lens in for repair.. Can't imagine that the body is the problem.

I agree. The joystick is not wothless at all, but I can imagine some people would like it to be a bit faster. 3 speeds would be cool!