Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I am experiencing a strange phenomena with my X-T2. Some settings seem to change by themselves. The first one is the EVF eyesight adjustment: almost every shooting session I have to start from readjusting it.  The second one (the most irritating) is that mechanical shutter is changed to the electronic one all by itself (while the conditions of the lighting remain the same, i.e. there is no need to switch to the shutter speed higher than 1/8000). If I can somehow explain the first one by unintentionally touching the adjustment wheel (although I'm trying my best not to touch it), I cannot explain the second one. I have read at some forum that setting the automatic face detection 'on' can cause this problem, but I have checked - it's off on my camera. 

Has anybody experienced this problem(s) and found a solution? Or should I take my camera for a repair? Thank you.

Alexander

Link to post
Share on other sites

Alexander, I don't believe you're imagining things!

Like yourself, I'm oftentimes finding the EVF eyesight adjustment has changed (so then you have to go through the nuisance of re-calibrating it to your shooting eye, which for me is the left one) although the camera has just been sitting in the bottom of my backpack; I reckon it must be from putting other objects into and out, even though I never leave anything resting atop my camera in there. The other phenomenal adjustment (that was a play on words really) that occurs is when the exposure compensation dial moves from its normal 0 position. Both of these could have been prevented if the camera had been built with similar locks for these dials as are found on the other top dials.

Can't comment usefully on the electronic/mechanical shutter issue though ... I might speculate that you've pushed the trigger inadvertently while the lens cap was on, but honestly my comprehension of how and when the camera would switch to one or the other is very limited. Hope this helps some, Paul

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...