Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I use a Godox DP600III studio flash with the Godox XProF trigger.

Everything goes smoothly on the X-T5, but when I want to shoot in Pixel Shift mode there is no way, the flash never fires. I have tried all the low sync speeds, the maximum is 1/25, and all the available intervals between shots. Nothing.

However it does work if I put a Nissin i60 flash directly on the hot shoe. 

I have also tried to connect camera and flash directly with a traditional cable and it doesn't work either. It could be that the cable is in bad condition, to hold on to any hope...

However it works perfectly with the High Resolution mode of the Olympus E-M5 mk3.

I don't know if anyone has any ideas on how to get out of this predicament, I spent a lot of money on the camera mainly for this...

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Since it works for you with a Nissin flash, there is definitely hope. The first thing I would try, would be to cover all connectors in the hotshoe except the big center one, with a piece of tape. This makes your camera act like there is a "dumb" flash connected, e.g. one that does not do TTL and other fancy stuff (like your Nissin).

The sad thing is: In many ways, Godox does not make their products truely compatible with Fuji. When you put a Godox flash or trigger on a Fuji cam, the camera is forced to use TTL which is NOT a good thing. Essentially one can only escape TTL by hardware hacks (like the above tape) or by using the camera function assigned to an Fn button: TTL Lock. (I am not sure all Fuji cams has this - my X-H2 does.)

(Btw: Using PC sync cable should work the same as using only the hotshoe center pin, so you might have had a bad cable connection. Those PC sync connectors are not exactly the most reliable connectors in the world.)

 

Oh, and yes, one can put your Godox flash in manual mode, but the point is that your Fuji camera still behaves like it is shooting TTL, which creates problems as the above, as well as introducing shutter delay and making it impossible to shoot in Fast Continuous mode with flash.

Edited by larsdaniel
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 12/5/2023 at 6:52 PM, larsdaniel said:

Since it works for you with a Nissin flash, there is definitely hope. The first thing I would try, would be to cover all connectors in the hotshoe except the big center one, with a piece of tape. This makes your camera act like there is a "dumb" flash connected, e.g. one that does not do TTL and other fancy stuff (like your Nissin).

The sad thing is: In many ways, Godox does not make their products truely compatible with Fuji. When you put a Godox flash or trigger on a Fuji cam, the camera is forced to use TTL which is NOT a good thing. Essentially one can only escape TTL by hardware hacks (like the above tape) or by using the camera function assigned to an Fn button: TTL Lock. (I am not sure all Fuji cams has this - my X-H2 does.)

(Btw: Using PC sync cable should work the same as using only the hotshoe center pin, so you might have had a bad cable connection. Those PC sync connectors are not exactly the most reliable connectors in the world.)

 

Oh, and yes, one can put your Godox flash in manual mode, but the point is that your Fuji camera still behaves like it is shooting TTL, which creates problems as the above, as well as introducing shutter delay and making it impossible to shoot in Fast Continuous mode with flash.

What you say is suggestive and I will try it out of curiosity. But in fact I bought second hand a Bowens GM500 (€60!!) quite old and it works perfectly with the cable, so the cable was not the problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Here is the solution to using the Eterna 55 file simulation LUTs in Davinci Resolve.   In general, do not use the FLog2C to film simulation LUTs as they are not supported by Davinci Resolve for two reasons: 1) Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut Color Space and 2) Davinci Resolve does not support FLog2C gamma.  Instead, use Flog2 which is supported by Davinci Resolve.  Here is an example.  Let's say that you want to use Classic Chrome simulation.  Do the following: Complete your color grade and use a CST to get to Rec 709. Add a node.  Use a CST to convert from Rec 709 to FLog2.  Output Color space is Rec 2020 and Outout Gamut is FLog2. Add a node.  Apply the FLog2 to Classic Chrome LUT Create a combination node from node in steps 2 and 3. Apply a Key to the combination node and adjust the Key Output Gain to get the amount of the combination node that you want applied. So that you do not have to do this over and over again, generate a LUT for the combination node.  Remember to turn off all other nodes before generating the LUT. Hope this helps others. Don  
    • Thanks for the insights. I think it's really hard to make a decision without having the two side by side! 
    • I don’t have the 23 f2 but I have read several times that it is considered a little soft at close distance, compared to the 23 f1.4 lenses. These will also focus at shorter distance from the subject, esp. the new one. So that might make a difference. The new 23 f1.4 LM WR  has better resolution, esp. in regard to the 40Mpix sensors, which you don’t have on the X-T2. What practical difference that makes for the value of the pictures one makes is disputable and subjective.  f1.4 will gather more light but with a smaller DOF, which may be desirable in some situations but not so in others, depends. If you like to shoot close ups, you will probably use higher f numbers to get a bigger DOF. Same for landscapes. If you are a bokeh fan, yes the f1.4 lens are better.  The older 23 f1.4 lens that you are considering is a very good and respected lens. The f1.4 vs f2 aperture per se is perhaps not so important. The 23 f2 is very small, light and practical and a great lens for travel and landscapes. So, go figure. I am afraid I just sent you further down the road to insanity !
    • First post here but long time fuji shorter. I use the XT2 with the 23mm f2 / 35mm 1.4 / 16-80mm f4 I'm considering the 23mm f1.4 r (Non-WR) About me: - I shoot black and white only. - I like macro details to wide open landscapes and everything in-between. - I shoot mostly for art, intrigue and creativity of the image. My question - is the 23mm f1.4 going to offer me any meaningful difference over the f2 for the above scenarios Thanks and sorry for bringing it up again...
    • I discovered this unmarked government installation today.  

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...