Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I have a question for other X-Pro2 users, who might need have a similar need.  

 

In m work, I will often use the X cameras X-T1 or X-Pro2 for a series of vertical frames, that I will stitch into a single landscape oriented image, to gain resolution.  Or just to create a panorama.  

 

While shooting in this mode, I prefer to have AF set to Manual, as many times during a shooting pass, the AF will possibly hit an area where it can't register and thus throw the series out of focus.  With the X-T1, my technique has always been to find a spot in the distance, and hit the AF-L button, which in turn uses instant AF to hit a spot and lock the focus.  Then I will shoot across the scene.  This issue is because often while panning, I have sky or a dark area where the AF will not register.  

 

I have tried this with the X-Pro2, and am consistently finding that the images are just slightly out of focus, or just not the best focus possible. 

 

My test for this:

 

On a tripod, find a subject and hit it with AF (in S mode), then turn the selector dial to M.  This move the image out of focus considerably, by just switching from S to M.  Then I hit AF-L and shoot a 2nd frame.  Each time the image taken with straight AF in S mode is sharper.  This is not the case with the X-T1, as the images always appear to be the same in sharpness.  

 

For now, I am shooting the pano/stitching series, in S with AF on, and just moving the AF point to a spot on the subject I know I can get a AF hit on, as the joystick makes this a lot easier in the field, but would still prefer to use the camera in M mode and AF-L.  

 

If anyone else could test their X-Pro2 like this I would appreciate it, as per Fuji Tech support, the AF-L button in M mode should operate as it does on the X-T1, and I am not seeing that. 

 

Lenses I have used for comparison:  16-55, 18-55 and 50-140, all seem to have the issue with the X-Pro2.  

 

Thanks

Paul Caldwell 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

On my X-Pro2, if you focus out on a subject in S mode via AF and get a lock, then switch to M mode, you will visibly see the focus change, very clearly.  Fuji Support confirmed this as correct since when you switch modes, the motor is re-syncd.  However in M mode when you hit AF-L, you are using "instant focus" and this should focus as sharply as when in S mode, and using standard AF, which in my case is not happening. 

 

Paul C

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...