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Paul2660

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Everything posted by Paul2660

  1. Just a guess do you have long exposure noise reduction turned on? The x-pro2 is quite a bit noise prone in longer exposures especially if the camera has been on a while. You can feel it get hot around the grip. I tried mine with a few nighttime stacks and decided it was not a good fit as with stacking you don't want the long exposure noise turned on. If you have long exposure noise turned on, might need to call Fuji as it should remove most if the stuck pixels. The x-T1 does a great job at night very clean with the long exposure noise reduction off. But it also does not get hot. Paul C
  2. I moved my camera back to standard power. Good point. I had forgotten about that. Paul
  3. I have noticed now many times, that my X-Pro2 goes from 3/4 to 0 in a matter of seconds. When looking at the battery life (with the screen where you get a numerical percentage) the battery will show around 65% to 60%, then in the next few seconds, the camera is totally dead. These are new Fuji Brand batteries. Sure I know to carry a lot of spares but to me it seems Fuji totally missed the boat with the battery intelligence on the X-Pro2. My X-T1 will get down to a red 1/4 before it dies, and the scale of the battery life seems much more realistic. Just curious if others are seeing this steep drop off from around 60% to 0, almost instantaneously. Note, I have not upgraded to 1.2 of the firmware yet, but I don't see any notes on improved battery life intelligence. Paul C
  4. Google Adam Woodworth. He has an excellent series of videos on shooting the night sky. He stacks with his Milky Way work and explains how to do it. He work speaks for itself. Paul C
  5. On my X-Pro2, if you focus out on a subject in S mode via AF and get a lock, then switch to M mode, you will visibly see the focus change, very clearly. Fuji Support confirmed this as correct since when you switch modes, the motor is re-syncd. However in M mode when you hit AF-L, you are using "instant focus" and this should focus as sharply as when in S mode, and using standard AF, which in my case is not happening. Paul C
  6. I have a question for other X-Pro2 users, who might need have a similar need. In m work, I will often use the X cameras X-T1 or X-Pro2 for a series of vertical frames, that I will stitch into a single landscape oriented image, to gain resolution. Or just to create a panorama. While shooting in this mode, I prefer to have AF set to Manual, as many times during a shooting pass, the AF will possibly hit an area where it can't register and thus throw the series out of focus. With the X-T1, my technique has always been to find a spot in the distance, and hit the AF-L button, which in turn uses instant AF to hit a spot and lock the focus. Then I will shoot across the scene. This issue is because often while panning, I have sky or a dark area where the AF will not register. I have tried this with the X-Pro2, and am consistently finding that the images are just slightly out of focus, or just not the best focus possible. My test for this: On a tripod, find a subject and hit it with AF (in S mode), then turn the selector dial to M. This move the image out of focus considerably, by just switching from S to M. Then I hit AF-L and shoot a 2nd frame. Each time the image taken with straight AF in S mode is sharper. This is not the case with the X-T1, as the images always appear to be the same in sharpness. For now, I am shooting the pano/stitching series, in S with AF on, and just moving the AF point to a spot on the subject I know I can get a AF hit on, as the joystick makes this a lot easier in the field, but would still prefer to use the camera in M mode and AF-L. If anyone else could test their X-Pro2 like this I would appreciate it, as per Fuji Tech support, the AF-L button in M mode should operate as it does on the X-T1, and I am not seeing that. Lenses I have used for comparison: 16-55, 18-55 and 50-140, all seem to have the issue with the X-Pro2. Thanks Paul Caldwell
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