I noticed some of what you are describing, but in my images, the difference seems more related to the body than the chosen simulation. Images from my X-T10 are slightly more yellow tinted than the ones from my X-T30 or X-T30 II (or the newer bodies have slightly more neutral auto white balances than the older one does if you want to think of it that way). I shoot raw and use Provis as the base simulation in all of the bodies because it is so neutral to start with, I can tell during a quick image playback if I have over-cooked an exposure.

Please forgive me for not being more specific… ”The DRIVE SETTING button gives you access to burst shooting, bracketing, single frame, Advanced Filters, and more. On the X-T3, Drive functions are set using the top-plate dial under the ISO settings dial.” https://www.fujifilm-x.com/en-us/quick-start-guides/quick-start-guide-fujifilm-x-t3/ HTH.

I have always used Provia, Astia, or ProNeg but I noticed since forever that the Fuji auto white balance seems to be heavily biased towards a "yellowish" tint. For 99% of my pictures I have to tweak the white balance temperature ( K ) down by 200, 300, or 400K , in PostProcessing.  Today, playing with different kind of film simulation , I run across the "Reala ACE" simulation. My camera is the X-H2S , and the RealaAce is not natively available..  But I can force the "RealaAce" code inside the Raw file (using Exiftool), or I can use Photolab9. With big surprise I discovered that Reala Ace renders the colors in such a way to look more faithful ! To be more precise, I can say that the white balance recorded by the camera looks perfectly fine.  No need to tweak it. I tested pictures taken outside my window, and I checked the results forcing the RealaAce inside Exif and/or playing with film simulations provided by Photolab9+FilmSimulationPack. Is it only my impression ?  Has anyone compared the White balance effect with different film simulations ?  

Thanks, but which top drive dial do you mean? On top of the camera I've got ISO, Shutter speed, on/off, that's all (plus the dial on the right for increasing / decreasing contrast).

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Is the top drive dial set to one of the advanced or similar settings? These settings are for jpeg only images, so the raw option would be disabled.