Jump to content

Recommended Posts

New to the forum and posted same question at end of another thread, so likely largely unseen. 
Issue is that I have xt30 set for raw+fine but only seem to get one image saved to card, the raw file. 
Only way I can get multiple images is if I use drive settings and set bracketing to film simulation. In that case I do get the three images, all raw. 
What I am trying to get is raw plus B&W jpeg. 

Is there some setting I am missing that overrides my raw+fine setting?

Jim S
 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Seem to have solved the issue from digging thru other related topics. 
It seems raw+jpeg only works at ISOs greater than 200. At ISO 160 and 200 only a raw file is saved. Above 200 both raw and jpeg are saved. 
No idea why that would be but it solves the issue. 
Curious if anyone can suggest why that would be the case and why Fuji would set it up that way. 
Jim S

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am not having any issues getting both raf and jpg files saved for either Acros or Monochrome at ISO 160 (or lower or higher).

Do you have something put into one of the My Menu spots that you may be activating by touching the appropriate fn button?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just did a bit more testing and for some reason I now get both the raw and jpeg file in LR. Did not change any camera settings. 
I think the issue was in importing into LR. The xt30 I know only shows the one image for review on the LCD, the jpeg, so I think the raw file was always there on the camera but somehow only the jpeg was being recognized/imported by LR. 
I did, in my digging, come across the “Treat JPEG files next to raw files as separate photos” check box in LR preferences/general. Having said that I was getting both images to show up in LR prior to finding and checking this box. 
So, no definitive solution but now working. I’m thinking it was some sort of glitch w LR importing the files. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...