jerryy

Are you really having trouble or just thinking you have hit the limits in what you can achieve in your present setting? Try this for some new lighting approaches: https://lightpaintingbrushes.com/collections/fiber-optic-light-painting-brushes As far as sharpness goes, on the other forums you will find lots of carefully worded discussions about which raw convertor will get you that last bit of detail, so .... try all of them and use the ones that best suit your budget and approach, -- sometimes one you do not use regularly will bring out what you need better than the others -- this happens with the DSLR bodies as well. If you do not trust your camera's light meter, perhaps it is leading you to over expose your shots as you suggest, rent a manual light meter and check one against the other. And listen to Larry.

So, when do we get to see what you saw?

Choose the 'More Reply Options' button. At the bottom you will be able to use the uploader to select a file (one at a time) and upload it. Once you do that, select the 'Attach" button for that image file. Then you can repeat the process to add more photos to the posting. Once you have them all selected, uploaded and attached, add them into the post in the order you want them to appear, after that maybe use the preview button to make sure they look as you wish. and finally post the message with the images. This may seem a bit much at first, but once you try it, the process is fairly straight-forward and helps you from accidentally posting the wrong images.

This may help you get started: http://www.lonelyspeck.com/photographing-and-processing-the-constellation-orion-astrophotography-image-stacking-and-lrgb-processing/#more-7403 I have the T2.2 version of that lens, it is pretty good for astrophotography.

Izzygirl Squeekybell

Your Bengal looks like he enjoys posing for you.

These may help you (or not ...) 1.) http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/ 2.) https://hvdwolf.github.io/pyExifToolGUI/

Are you certain it does not run on a Mac? Here are the instructions for installing it: http://app.fujifilm-dsc.com/pc/fujifilm_pc_autosave/en/download/index.html I tried it for a while when I first got my XT-10, but I was not really impressed with wifi transfer speeds compared to how fast a card reader can move multi-gigabytes of data, so I never really kept up with it. As the saying goes: YMMV. Edit: I just checked, Fuji's site says they are working to update this for full Sierra (10.12) compatibility, so it should not be too long. They said the same about the FinePix studio software, but it was okay, and then they updated it. http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/pc_autosave/mac/

This may not affect many folks here , but it is a problem for those it is affecting. (1) If you are using Mac OS-X and have updated to the very latest os version 10.11.6. (2) Use "large" TIFF files --- but only certain types of TIFF stored files. You MAY have suddenly noticed you can no longer see your image previews or open your files in Apple's Preview or Photos applications. Or in applications like Pixelmator that depend on Apple's underlying image processing capabilities. This is because the recent os upgrade fixed a very serious security problem that used some kinds of TIFF files to get into your computer. The down side is that as I mentioned, you will (at the time of this writing) not be able to preview the file -- they will show up as either back or white images. This depends on how your TIFF processing software stored the file, as a series of what are called 2d tiles or 1d strips. The 1D strip storage seems to be oaky, but the 2d tile storage was the risky vector that is being stopped. IF this affects you, the good news is that your files are still good -- assuming you are the creator, etc, etc, you will be able to still open them in the original software and use them. Hopefully, the situation will be fixed in a much better way as the fix will probably be used in other operating systems as well. There are reports of Capture One 9 users having the problems as well as Affinity Photo users and as I mentioned Pixelmator. One workaround is to use another graphic convertor program to re-store the TIFF files using the 1D strip technique, but this can be time consuming even in batch mode.

Perhaps, but until Manifrotto and other manufacturers release easy to carry step ladders that get your camera above the 6 foot (about 1.83 meters) limit that tripods impose, tools like T-S lenses or less expensive software tools are good approaches to working around perspective distortion, but they all take some learning tome to get the best results.

I guess it is my fault for not putting enough emphasis on the idea of that being a quick example (with only horizontal and vertical shifting) to help the op decide if they wanted to buy / rent / use a T-S lens or use a different approach .... but the controls are highly adjustable and also include angle adjustments. Here is a slightly less quick version of the tool results with less distortions .

it is possible to try the idea of T-S lens without buying or renting one, by using the builtin digital shifting that the Raw Developer Fujifilm gives you. Attached is a quick sample of using it for horizontal and vertical shifting. After making the shifts along with the usual development choices, you can export your image as a TIFF to your favorite image processing program to mangle or fine tune any remaining perspective distortion. if that idea works well for you then you have enough information on how it works to decide if you want to buy the lens. Note: i used the Raw Developer from Fujifilm for OS-X, but I believe it is the same for the Windows version.

oops, hit the enter button tooooo soon.

On the XT-10, if you use the top dial to set a shutter speed of say for example 1/500, you can use the front dial to lower or raise the shutter speed in increments toward the next top dial setting. So at the 1/500 setting rolling it one way will raise it to 640 and the other way will lower it to 400. HTH.