wiriadinata

I try to stick with SanDisk or Lexar Professional for my cards (any of the top tier cards by these two is what I try for).  They've never failed me yet.

Mushroom Picker...
... in Monti Sibillini/Italy
 

erm... nothing is perfect. Once u buy a new camera u should adapt and amend ur shooting style to suit specific camera that u use and not complaining the product have flaws.

1.) Third-stop shutter adjustment is available on most Fuji cameras, typically via a front control dial. (Sometimes a rear dial in certain modes.) Also, while I do not believe this excuses the full-stop main shutter dial, I will point out that most film cameras, which the Fuji body styles try to emulate, also have shutter dials marked only in full stops. Even my ludicrously-expensive-at-the-time Mamiya medium format camera only has the shuter marked in half-stops. You do get used to these things. Again, I don't believe it fully excuses the slightly awkward and outdated dial, but there is a reason for it, and, as I said, most Fuji cameras do let you adjust the shutter and aperture in third-stops anyway, via additional controls.

2.) It already does what you're asking for. If you use spot metering, the metering is tied to the focus point selected and the spot metering is taken from a sample size matching the smallest size of focus area. (Note that making the focus area larger does not increase the size of the area used for spot metering.) On the X-T1 you can change it in the menu to decouple the spot metering from the focus point so spot metering is always in the middle, regardless of where the focus point is set. This does also mean that, when coupled (which, I think, is the default), yes, you can move the spot metering around. I forget if the X100S has this option in the menu or not. My personal opinion is that if you're trying to shoot a scene with a large dynamic range then you shouldn't be relying on any form of automatic metering anyway.

3.) I half agree and half not. I have been screaming for a 70-73mm f/2 lens for the best part of a year and I never see my friends in Fuji PR without mentioning it to them. A 100-105mm equivalent is an absolute must, as far as I care, and the moment it it out I will be selling my 56mm and 60mm lenses. That said, I absolutely do not want it to have macro functionality, or any other feature which would increase its price, size or slow down focusing. (E.g. weather sealing, image stabilisation, an apodisation filter, etc.)
As for longer macro lenses, in the Canon and medium format worlds, focal lengths in excess of 150mm are very popular for macro photography precisely because of the longer working distance.
HSS is physically possible with mirrorless but it is much harder and much more expensive to do than with a SLR. Given the limited uses for HSS, you're better off simply using ND filters. Leaf shutters are expensive and typically have to be made for the lens and are not something you can stick on a body without pricing yourself out of the market. If HSS is something you feel you rally need, mirrorless as a format—not just Fuji, but any mirrorless camera—is not going to be for you. There are compromises that can be made, some bodies can make certain advancements, but this is one of those areas where mirrorless is always going to be 5-10 years behind SLR and if it's that important to you, you simply are not the target market for mirrorless.

Most of your third point, by the way, makes it sound like what you really want is a medium format system but somehow 1/6th the size, cost and weight. The cost of a digital back for a mid-90s medium format camera is about the same as a body and a set of three lenses costs, by the way. If that's the kind of shooting experience and options you want and the size doesn't bother you, you'll be better off going that route.

4.) No company currently offers what you're asking for. The closest you can get is the Cactus system, which a) is very cheap and works with every brand, or any mixture of brands, you can name. It doesn't have TTL, but since one Cactus trigger and any number of Cactus flashguns gives you full remote control in 1/10th-stop increments and flash zoom control right from the trigger, you have far more contol than any other flash system gives you, anyway. And that's just with one trigger on the camera, since the flashes themselves have the reciever built-in. No company in the world can give you radio-transmitted TTL without both triggers and recievers. The next closest thing would be Canon's commander mode, on their lower-end bodies using the pop-up flash, but that's not radio triggering and it is very limited.

This part sounds very confusing, to me, because you seem to have a very strong idea of what you want and make out that you have quite demanding needs, yet you're asking for small-as-possible TTL, which to me screams happy snappy amateur. If you want and need professional control, why use TTL and why care about whether or not you need to buy another reciever? If you just want and need something small and quick, just stick the flashgun on top of the camera and bounce it off a wall. Fill flash outdoors? Use an ND filter and you're set. It reads like you don't actually know what you want and need.

5.) That's more of a technical limitation. There's only so much space in a body. The WP-126 is used by most Fuji cameras: the Pro, E and T lines all use it. I believe the M and A also use it, but I'm not sure. The X100 line is a problem because they're trying to cram far more in to a smaller-size body; you've probably noticed from the weight that the X100S is the 'densest' camera Fuji makes, weighing much more than other cameras of its size.
I would love it if every camera I have used the same battery, but it's just not physically possible. Just as a 5D and a 1D-X don't use the same batteries, there are always going to be a few models in any product line which use different batteries.
You also underestimate the power needed for fast sync. Either you have to make the flash burst, greatly increasing the power needed, or you make it shorter but prime and latch it, making the system overall use more power. Either way, HSS uses more power than regular use.
 
 
I say this as someone who likes his Fujis, but also likes Sony's mirrorless cameras, has been impressed with micro 4/3 and still uses several Canon digital cameras, digital medium format, film medium format and 35mm film: mirrorless is not for you. It simply sounds like you're either completely misunderstanding what different types of camera and different systems do, or you're simply so set on one method of shooting that you're unlikely to learn to change to the mirrorless way of shooting. Your first couple of points illustrate a lack of understanding of basic functionality of your cameras, and your later remarks suggest you'd simply be much better off using an SLR camera, or even a medium format.

I do not defend Fuji, typically. I give their PR hell all the time, especially when it comes to that 70mm lens. But, one lens focal length aside, none of your complaints hold water. You just don't seem to know what you're holding or why you're holding it.