thelostkiwi

I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well. 24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode. 50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105. I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting. Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images. I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter. The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses. I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results.

Ely Cathedral, Nikon 24mm f/1.8G ISO3200, 1/4s f/9 handheld. Using 35mm mode.

Fringer adapters are brilliant. I use them on both the X and GFX cameras.

You're missing some of mine off the list. X-E2, X-T4 and GFX100s II

I came from Nikon D3 to an X-T4. Yes it was a bit small (almost anything is after a D3) so I added a SmallRig grip. Dramatic improvement in how it felt in the hand. It also added slightly to the height making it all a bit more manageable. I then decided I wanted something very small and compact for street or discrete photography and bought an X-E2. Ergonomically its a bit of a disaster but the images are lovely and I'm happy to forgive it because of that. I can drop it in a pocket and snap off a couple of shots in a few seconds and put it back in a pocket nice and quickly. Since then I've moved on to a GFX100s II and that is simply in a different league. Ergonomics are very good (especially if you are used to PASM dials and finger and thumbwheels for shutter and aperture. Buttons are all programmable and you can customise to your hearts content. The only thing is the joystick control is a bit random in how it operates - especially when pixel peeping and the touchscreen operation is inconsistent - it works with some things but not others. Fort example scrolling an image about or selecting focus points but doesn't work when in the menu system. If you're having issues with the X-T20 try a grip and give it a little more time to get used to. As for whats best for you it depends entirely on what you shoot. For example I'd never use my GFX for street photography or sports photography but conversely I wouldn't use the X-E" for landscapes or wildlife. The X-T4 is a jack of all trades and well suited to sports photography (very high frame rate and crop sensor) where the other two aren't. Horses for courses.

I recently went from Nikon Dx series -> Fuji X-T4 -> GFX100s II. I've now had the GFX for almost 3 weeks and find it generally to be pretty intuitive and the overall design to be very good. It fits neatly in the hand and although there's a reasonable amount of heft its handling minimises it well. All the buttons are programmable to put the functions you need close at hand and the customised menus are easy to use. The only thing I'm not sure about is the joystick operation and the inconsistent use of the touchscreen - it works for some things but not others. All that being said the image quality is simply astonishing SOOC. As a flexible high resolution system it works very well. You can get adapters to use non-Fuji lenses as if they are native (with some caveats about sensor coverage). For example smart adapters are available to use the GFX with Nikon AF-S or Canon EF-S lenses. Some will give full sensor coverage and some won't but even as a full frame 35mm camera its still 60MP.

Some of the post processing options cause this. Clarity, noise reduction etc. check all are off. Also check to see if you've bumped it into HDR mode on the drive selector.

If you use an Android phone Snapseed is fantastic. Affinity 2 is a full featured editor that's not overly expensive when there are offers on. Luminar Neo is very good and easy to use but you need to wait till there's an offer on. It can then be extremely good value.

Agree on the 18-135 it's a very good one lens fits all with a decent blend of focal length coverage, sharpness, cost and weight with the added benefit it's weather sealed. It's a bit slow at the long end but with OIS and high ISO it's fine for most things. You don't say what you shoot? For myself I use vintage telephoto lenses from Minolta and Zeiss. Great lenses for not much money. Example: 75-200 f4.5 Minolta can be had for under £50 and is the same design as the equivalent Leica R (Leica and Minolta co-developed lenses and bodies for a while). A Zeiss 80-200 can be had for £100 -150 in Contax fitting. Adapters are £20-30. The only issue is you need to manually focus so not easy to use for sports or wildlife.

Plenty on eBay and Amazon. The one I use is a KEF Concepts which works fine. Remember you will have no AF, no feedback of aperture and will need to stop the lens down manually. That all said vintage lenses are a bargain and you can get a very good lens for not much money. For example I paid £15 for a Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 lens in m42 fitment and it is pin sharp even wide open. Likewise Minolta MD 75-200 f/4.5 (£25), Minolta MD III 35-70 f/3.5 Macro (£20) and Rollei (Zeiss) 50mm f/1.8 HFT (essentially a Rollei QBM version of the C/Y 50mm 1.7). Minolta in the 1970s worked with Leica and both the MD lenses above are identical optically to their Leica SLR counterparts at a fraction of the price. Likewise Zeiss worked with both Rollei and Contax (though Rolleinar and Yashica lenses are not the same as the Zeiss ones).

Check the lenses you have are supported by the adapter. Some aren't, especially third party ones. For example the Tamron SP90 for Nikon is not supported by the Fringer Nikon to Fuji FX adapter.

Depending what is going on internally this can be normal with some designs. For example the Yashica MC 35-70 moves freely from 70 to 45 but then internally one set of elements starts to move along with the first set and it stiffens up. It's even worse coming the other way. Tried several and they're all the same. Have a look and see what the internal elements are doing and that could give you a clue.

The three steps I went through on the X-T4 were: 1. Go into Menu, Drive Setting, BKT Setting, Film Simulation BKT and select the three simulations. 2. Go back into Menu, Drive Setting, BKT Setting, BKT Select, Film Simulation BKT. 3. Switch the camera to BKT mode Then it took a single image and generated the three images. If you're doing that and it's not working I'm not sure what could be wrong. Does it work on other bracketing modes?

Just tried it on my X-T4 and that's how it works on that. Silly question but you did remember to set the camera to bracket mode?

Bizarre to make your camera purchase decision on an app that'll probably be rarely used. I've used the remote app maybe 3 times in 2 years. Would I base my purchasing decisions on that experience? No.

Is the LCD enabled in the Screen setup portion of the Setup menus?

Sounds like something isn't right. Check the lens is fully mounted home and the electrical connectors are clean. If you have access to another Fuji lens try that in order to determine if it's the lens or body.

Just checked both my X-E2 and X-T4 and both have free movement, then a light click to prefocus, then a second click to expose. Sounds to me like that movement is normal.

Spring time in the Charente Maritime. X-T4 with 18-135.

English Lavender Fuji X-T4 with Samyang 12mm AF

It sounds like the mechanical shutter is faulty and the second curtain is closing too quickly after the first operates. That would explain why the electronic shutter is ok but not the mechanical one.

Can't agree about the increased pixel count only being useful if you print big prints. It also gives the ability to crop the image giving the 45MP sensor an effective 1.3x zoom with no loss of pixels compared to the 26MP sensor. For travel purposes it's a worthwhile thing as it reduces the size/number of lenses needed to achieve like images. For the OP it will depend a lot on your skill level and intended usage. The X-T5 is more oriented to photography with all the normal controls exposed on the top plate whereas the X-S20 is more video oriented with photography controls tucked away more.

As above. Use a sensor swab kit. The right tool for the job is always best. Make sure the camera is turned off (remove battery to be sure). One or two drops of cleaning solution on the edge of the swab, start at one side pull the swab slowly across with a single even movement pressing firmly and holding the swab at 45 degrees. Once at the other side (without lifting the swab) pull the sensor swab back the opposite way in the same manner. Discard the swab. Repeat with another swab if necessary. Do not use a swab twice as any embedded dust can scratch the sensor surface. I've used these and they work well: 20Pcs 16mm APS-C Sensor Cleaning... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B6P7L6FF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share