DaveC

Focus Bracketing in X-S10 does not work as per the user manual. Page 92 of the user manual in step 3 says: 'Focus on the nearest end of the subject and press MENU/OK. The selected focus distance appears as A on the focus distance indicator.' This does not happen, when I press MENU/OK I get the main menu displayed. I have watched several you tube videos for X-T3 cameras and focus bracketing and none of them show you how to mark the first and last focal points. In fact they often complain that you cannot do that. I would like to use in-camera focus stacking when taking low light landscapes with wide apertures so would appreciate any help with this. I realise I can do them manually using a tripod but in-camera would allow me to focus stack hand held. Many Thanks.

I agree, best approach is to download a trial and try it out. I have found the ibis lets me hand hold down to about half a second, below that and it is no longer sharp. Of course the lens also has IS so I may have managed with that alone but there is so much more to this camera than IBIS. I only have the one lens, the 16-80mm f4, and I am very pleased with it. It balances nicely with the camera. The weather here has been quite dreary since I got the camera so you can imagine the kind of photos but I am impressed by how accurately the jpegs reflect what I actually saw. The only time it got it wrong was a seascape where the white balance was very blue. I put this down to being in Auto WB but changing to Daylight WB did not improve things. The Acros film sim is as good as I have heard on the forums. Enjoy your Christmas trip.

Comparing On1 and Capture One. There seems to be much concern about which software does a good job of Fuji files. Having decided to use On1 2021 I decided to compare a raf file (Fuji X-S10) with minor editing between these two editors. The photo in question is quite dull in keeping with the weather. I only did the following to the file in both editors: Pushed out the whites and blacks for max dynamic range Boosted Structure (to 40) Sharpened. Having edited the file in each editor I exported the raf file as a full size jpeg and then compared them side by side in ACDSee Ultimate at 100%. The attached comparison image was captured using ACDSee Ultimate at 100%. The Capture One image is on the left and On1 is on the right. I concentrated on the rocks as this is where I thought there may have been a problem. I see no noticeable difference. I hope this is of some interest, Dave.

Thanks everyone for the replies. I have downloaded the free fuji Capture One Express and am using it to compare the processing of my images in both Capture One and On1. so far I have not come to a conclusion either way. One thing I like about On1 is that it creates a virtual copy of jpegs just like the virtual copies of RAW files (attaches a sidecar file) so you can edit and re-edit to your hearts desire until you finally export the virtual copy as a jpeg or tif. Dave.

I can understand, the 100v is a beautiful thing and I would like one of them too but I dont think my wife would understand.

Thankyou Greybeard I will give it a go.

Thankyou for your reply, I emailed Capture One just two weeks ago asking when they would support the XS10 and they said they did not give out that information. Hence they lost a sale. I must admit I was rather surprised at their response, more so as you say the XS10 is now supported. Thanks again, Dave.

Just had a mornings photography exploring different film sims on jpeg and RAW files (X-S10). When I got home and started processing I realised I had no idea which sim was used on each file. I naively assumed the detail would be in the exif data. It is not. Has anyone got any idea how to identify the film sim used on a file? I am using On1, in case that has any bearing on this. Thankyou, Dave.

Well Lumens, I have had On1 for a week now and had no spam emails. But On1 2021 works beautifully. I am thoroughly enjoying using it and my X-S10 images are looking great. Being new to Fuji I am pleasantly surprised at how good the jpegs are. Thanks, Dave.

Your right it is not that simple. In fact I have found that I prefer focus on the shutter release with the AFON button set to AF Lock. Now I can focus, lock it and then re-compose to my hearts content and take many photos on that focus setting. I have put Manual focus settings on a custom setting and that works too. Thanks for your help Greybeard, Dave.

Thanks for your reply jlmphotos, I have just had a morning session with the X-S10 in the grounds of a local castle and have been able to take some serious images (instead of the quick shots around the garden on my first day with the camera). I was set up for fine jpeg and RAW as you suggest and I have to say I was impressed with the jpegs. I agree that ETTR is not good for jpegs, I found the cameras exposure perfectly sound allowing for a little negative exposure compensation occasionally. I found On1 was the only software other than Silkypix that could read the X-S10 RAW files so I got a copy of that and it works beautifully with the raf files. So all in all I have had a great start to the Fuji world. Thanks again for your reply, Dave.

Rain stopped so went out to try the settings. Slight disappointment, if I set the camera to AF-C mode I get single auto focus with a press and release and a continuous autofocus when I press and hold the AFON button but NO manual focus in between. If I set the camera to AF-M mode I get single auto focus with a press and release of the AFON button and manual focus the rest of the time. Looks like I cant have it all, unless someone else knows better. What I really want is to auto focus with the shutter button and be able to lock the focus until I choose otherwise. This would allow me to re-compose between shots knowing the focus has not changed.

I have just collected my new Fuji X-S10 camera and was concerned about the software to use. I moved from Lightroom to ACDSee Ultimate back in 2010 but realised a change was needed for Fuji. I tested out the fuji recommended free software (silkypix and Capture One) and decided to give Capture One a try. However after an email to them Capture One could not say when they would support the X-S10. I then found On1 had already incorporated the X-S10 into its 2021 version. I purchased it and am pleased with it so far. The results are as good or better than the results I got using the Capture One trial. I would love to hear of other peoples experience of this software, if there are any. Dave.

Jonno, I picked up my X-S10 yesterday and like you had some concerns regarding focus modes. My previous camera was an EOS M5 and I used auto focus but when I wanted to lock the focus I was able to press a button and go straight to Manual focus mode. I wanted to replicate this ability in my new camera and have found a solution. I have set the camera to Back Button Focus. I now press and release the AFON button for single auto-focus, press and hold the AFON button for continuous auto-focus and when the AFON button is not touched I am in manual focus mode without having to press any buttons. I used Back Button focus on my old Nikon D7000 and enjoyed using it so I hope the same for the X-S10. I have not tried it thoroughly yet as it has been raining all day and I am waiting to get out and experiment. If you want to know the settings let me know. Dave.

Thanks Greybeard, I have been reading the user manual (pdf) and looked those up, I will definitely be experimenting with those settings. I have found On1 can work with the X-S10 so have downloaded a trial which I have to say I am quite impressed by. Very different to ACDSee Ultimate that I currently use. I suspect that On1 will be my next purchase. Start the new year with a bang 🙂

I am a new forum member and about to pick up a new Fuji X-S10 camera having been a non-fuji user previously (Canon eos M5, Nikon D7000 etc.). I am used to working with RAW images which meant exposing to the right (histogram) in camera and then getting exposure correct in post processing. Obviously this continues in the Fuji world with RAW images (although only the Silkypix software supports the X-S10 at the moment) but I am interested in the techniques used when working with Fuji jpeg images. Could anyone explain their jpeg process for me. Should I still expose to the right or should I get it right on the spot, so to speak. I would appreciate any advice on this, thankyou.