DaveC

Hard to tell without the ability to zoom in on the photo but it seems to me that the pink flower petals look sharpe. Could it be that you have simply focussed on the petals rather than the bird. Do you use a small single focus point or a large one. If you use a large focus point that may explain the problem. f5.6 at 300mm would have quite a narrow depth of field. If you have any doubts you could try some experiments on a tripod with clearly defined subjects, see if you get sharpe results then. I have the 70-300mm and find it very sharpe. Hope you solve it, Dave.

I normally shoot Manual focus but would like to set up a Custom function using AF-C with subject detection. As far as I can see it would not be sufficient to just change to the new custom function to move from manual to AF but I would also need to change the AF mode switch on the front of the camera from M to C. I dont do this on my XS10 as it does not have a physical AF mode switch. Am I correct in my understanding or am I missing something? I hope this makes sense. I basically want to switch between a manual focussing custom function to a AF focussing custom function without having to change the physical AF mode switch. Appreciate any help on this. DC

I use f7.1 or f8 for max dof on my X100v. The APSC sensor gives greater dof than full frame (35mm equivalent). If you want to see what is in or out of focus then shoot manual focus with focus assist set to red highlights, you will see clearly what is in focus. The X100v even displays a scale in the EVF indicating the focus distances. Enjoy your X100.

Dont forget the lossless compression for RAW files is very effective and results in no loss of quality or speed of processing. File sizes are about 30MB and I use them all the time in conjunction with full quality jpegs. I use a 64GB card. Enjoy your XS-10, I have had mine since September 2020 and love it.

I know its been a while since I posted this but thanks for your replies.

I realise this forum is titled Sunset but as there is no Sunrise topic I thought you might like these sun rises from my local beach at Christchurch, Dorset, UK.

As requested. DSCF9339v1 is a woodlouse in a pine cone.

As requested here are some of the first images I took with the Samyang f2.8 100mm macro lens. These are all jpegs straight out of camera (no processing) and hand held. I used iso800 to get a reasonable speed but the IBIS made a big difference. I have to say my main problem is the limited depth of field and focussing hand held is difficult. Using the MF assist I have experimented using Focus peak highlighting and Digital microprism. I have found the latter to be more useful when very close. The toadstools are appx. 2cm diameter. The lilly flower (DSCF9402) is appx. 5cm diam. The Salvia flower (DSCF9439) is appx. 1cm diam. Thanks for your interest jerryy.

Thanks for your help Jerryy, the lens was delivered today and I have found that attaching the lens to the X-S10 automatically selects the first lens setting in the Adaptor Settings (I had set this setting to 100mm with a suitable lens name). The EXIF data is updated accordingly. I will experiment with your suggestions but it seems strange that there is not a section of the manual that explains switching between lenses. I may email Fuji for the answer. I must admit I am pleased with the lens and the way it works on the X-S10. I just need to get used to getting the point of focus exactly where I want it, a few more days of use should do it. Thanks again, Dave.

I have just purchased a Samyang MF 100mm Macro F2.8 Lens for use on my X-S10. As it is not an adapted lens I assume I am in the correct forum for this question. On the X-S10 I can set the focal length and lens name in the Mount Adaptor Settings section of the menu so that the lens is shown in the Exif data. What I cannot discover is how to select between the 6 lens options whenever I attach this lens. Can anyone help with this? Thanks, Dave.

I agree, you cannot assess the quality of a cameras image unless you can access the RAW image. Another persons jpeg could have had all sorts of post processing done to it. On Flikr at the very least they will have been compressed and probably sharpened with increased clarity which often makes them look hard on the eyes. I will assess the X-H2 when I can download a RAW file. Dave.

Zohar, you do not say in your message how long you have used your fuji xt4 nor which of the on-board film sims you have used. My experience with my X-S10 and X100v suggests that using the standard Provia film sim, set WB to daylight and get your exposure right (use the histogram) will give you a perfect jpeg SOOC suitable for skin tones as well as water falls. You may have tried this already but if not I suggest you give it a go. Best of luck, Dave.

It is only obvious when IBIS is on continuously. If it is set to Shooting only then IBIS only kicks in briefly when the shutter is released. I love my XS-10 so hope you enjoy yours as much. Dave.

Just looking through the manual IS Mode for still photography cannot be assigned to the Quick menu (don't know why) but it can be assigned to a function button or a touch function. You could also try assigning it to My Menu, it is not clear from the manual whether that will work. I do not have my camera to hand at the moment to try it.

I use the WR kit and have a perfect lens cap. I use a lens cap from my old Olympus OM1 film camera lens, it clips inside of the filter thread. It is nice to reference my old film camera in this way. Just find a lens with the same thread size as the WR kit. Good luck, Dave.

My X100v has a Fuji Weather-Resistant Adaptor ring and filter. I would like to fit a small lens hood that screws into the thread of the filter enabling me to retain the water resistance. Does any one know of such a lens hood. I did a search on lens hoods but could find nothing like this on the forum. Appreciate any suggestions.

There are a lot of good cameras out there but try out the XS-10 with the Fuji XF16-80mm zoom. I switched to this set up from Nikon back in September 2020 and the one lens is ideal for holidays. I have large hands and have no problem with it.

I have hesitated to reply to your query as it is a difficult subject. We have all gone through finding our first suitable post processing software and it is not easy. We are overwhelmed by the number of options but you eventually realise you do need them. I am sure that most forum members would recommend the software that they use and they all do a good job. The problem we have as new users of pp software is in knowing what we want to do to the photograph in question. The skill is in knowing what needs doing. Finding the tools to use in any software is the easier part. The software suppliers and other third parties such as Scott Kelby provide many on-line video tutorials which are well worth watching. I found that my local library was helpful in that I could borrow books on the subject of processing photos even though they were usually old and applied to some version of Photoshop that I did not use. In spite of this they allowed me to understand what a photo needed. Just dont try to understand all the tools, it is the 'What needs doing' that is important. I currently use On1 Photo Raw and ACDSee though I did use Lightroom in the past. Many on this forum use Capture One. I think we all benefit from a software product that has built in Photo Management which the above have. If you know a fellow photographer then they may be your best source of help as there is nothing better than a guiding hand. You can always post messages on this forum for help. To help you select a piece of software I recommend downloading a trial first, but be mindful of the full cost as some are much more expensive than others. I would not recommend PS elements, I started with it and wished I had not as it is far more complex than you think and has a poor user interface in my opinion. I do not know if this has been helpful, I hope it has, Dave.

Set your camera to shoot RAW and JPEG (best quality). Now you will see the film sims or other filters in the jpeg file. RAW files are not affected by film sims or other filters.

I have the X-S10 and the X100v and find the WB depends on the time of day and the weather (sunny or cloudy). At sunrise and sunset I find the AWB a touch cool for my liking so I set the WB to Daylight or Cloudy. During the day I set the WB to Daylight. At night (dark with street lights) I find the AWB perfect.

I have not tried to repeat your problem with my XS-10 but have you considered whether the blurriness is due to movment or focussing. Are you using auto focus or manually focussing. Try it with manual focus. I am also happy to be corrected but I was under the impression that the XS-10 sensed when the camera was on a tripod (or unmoving surface) and disabled the IBIS.

I will be most impressed if the Tamron is as good as the Fuji 70-300. I use the Fuji 70-300 on my X-S10 and think it is brilliant. I also have a Fuji X100v to take out with me so if I need a wide angle I have the best of both worlds. You clearly need to wait for some reviews of the Tamron lens to help you make your mind up.

Thankyou all for the replies. I have installed the Fuji filter kit and have found that my old Olympus OM1 49mm lens caps fit on the filter perfectly. I now have the excellent X100v with a momento of my early film photography years. A very happy Fuji user.

Thankyou for your reply. It has been a while since I posted this request and I have worked out back button focussing. I use single focussing in conjunction with the AEL/AFL button. I do appreciate your reply however, it was good of you. Dave.

Cli, the only way to tell is to download a trial copy of the software and try it out. I personally use On1 photo raw editor with built in organiser. I downloaded its trial last year and compared its output to that of Capture One before making my decision. Good luck with your decision.