Col

All cameras will respond to infra red light. If you take infra red photos the way you describe your exposure times will be considerably longer for a given ISO. This is because not only does the infra red filter block almost all the light in the visible spectrum but there is a filter on the camera's sensor that blocks infra red light so not a lot of the light entering your lens reaches the sensor. At least the XT-2 has an electronic viewfinder so you should still have a reasonable view for framing etc.
 
If you just want to try infra red photography the cokin IR filter will be OK. Just be prepared to either bump up your ISO (a lot) or use a tripod.
 
If you decide to get into infra red photography, you might be better buying a body that's been converted for IR or paying for a conversion. IR conversion is basically removing the IR blocking filter from the sensor. You can choose to replace the IR blocking filter with an infrared filter at the sensor (that's what I have done) or you can just remove the IR blocking sensor and replace it with clear glass and use an IR filter on your lens. There are pros and cons for both.
 
Google infra red photography to find some websites that can provide more detailed advice.

I am pleased to report that, having sent sample images to both Fujifilm and the camera vendor and then returned the camera to the vendor, I have been supplied with a new X-T2 that takes tack-sharp pictures.
It's taken all that time because no one would believe that this camera could produce blurred images!

The 2,8/50 Touit Makro is worth every cent over cheaper alternatives.
 
True 1:1 magnification with no need for extension tubes or close-up dioptres, and Zeiss image quality that is to die for. The AF does hunt a bit at times, but who uses AF with macro photography, anyway?
 
It remains one of my favourite lenses for my X-cameras.

I find myself wondering why you have set up the camera in this way, to write to one card first then to write to the other one.
 
What if one of the cards proves defective? There's more than one thread in this forum that relates to this being a potential problem.
 
Personal preference is to let the camera write jpgs on the one card, RAW on the other. Then I know I've got a backup against a defect occurring on a card, and with relatively frequent downloading to my PC, I'm covered against losing an image.