I suppose you never used an x-pro1 or x100 before?
I hope I can explain well and don't confuse you more.. but, here goes...
It just gives you 2 points of reference to guesstimate where you think the actual AF focus point will be when using the OVF. It does not apply to using the EVF.
2 focus squares/boxes are shown in the OVF when corrected AF frame is on.
The center most square represents infinity focus and the off center square, usually a bit more towards the lower right corner, represents closest focusing distance. Your actual AF focus point can be anywhere inbetween. When you half press shutter to get an AF lock, a green square/box will appear to confirm the AF focus point. The closer your subject is, the closer that green confirmation square/box will be to the lower right corner. Conversely, the further away your subject is, the closer the green confirmation box will be towards the center square/box which represents infinity. As soon as you get the af confirmation, the frame lines will automatically adjust for parallax correction.
The best way to picture using corrected AF frame is to think of the 2 boxes floating in 3D space. An invisible line of focus runs between the lens to infinity.. the infinity box in the center and closest focusing box to the bottom right which if you think about parallax error, is actually somewhere in front of the lens.. and you just imagine where your subject is in 3d space between closest and infinity focus points and try to place your aim in that area.
With practice, you can do a pretty good job of guessing where that AF point should be floating between the infinity and close focus squares/boxes.
Note, the Corrected AF Frame is not represented the same on all lenses.. it will vary depending on the lens and focal length you are using. Some will have the 2 squares/boxes a lot closer to each other, others will be further apart.
Note, using the Corrected AF Frame was the best way to get some reference to AF focus using the OVF in the X-Pro1 & X100 & X100S. It was not until the X100T that electronic rangefinder (ERF) mode was implemented and you could get that small EVF overlay in the bottom right corner in OVF mode to show you exactly what your sensor is seeing 100% and where the focus point actually is. The X-Pro2 has this now, as well.
I find the Corrected AF Frame less useful now since you can have the little EVF overlay in the bottom right corner to show you exactly where the focus point is.. no need to guesstimate anymore.
Now, some people find that little EVF distracting and not useful.. I don't personally think so and love it. No more guess work and you can use that little EVF overlay to fine tune focus manually after AF lock (if you just want to be extra sure).
I will add the beauty of the electronic rangefinder mode is that in manual focusing, that small EVF overlay can be used to focus and the frame lines will adjust in real time and hold position accordingly which really makes it feel as close to a real rangefinder (in digital format) as much as possible. Where as if you used AF, the corrected frame lines in the OVF only show up after you've half pressed the shutter button. it works great still, but at least you have more options now on how to focus and compose your images.
BTW, if it doesn't make sense, take a look at this video by Rediscover Film. Don't worry about the problem with the 35mm OVF.. it's something we both found on the x-pro1.. not going to talk about it as the video goes into it more.. but, the basics on how Corrected AF Frame works will be more apparent with this video and some visuals to explain.. probably better than just words here on this forum.
https://youtu.be/vn2BY1jpHWY
Bottom line.. on the new x-pro2, I would say the corrected af frame is not as useful anymore if you plan to use the electronic rangefinder (ERF) mode with the OVF as it is more accurate and show you exactly your focus point. But, if you don't like ERF, then I would suggest you turn on Corrected AF Frame so at least you have an idea where to guesstimate AF focusing using the OVF.
Tips with Corrected AF Frame:
1) If your green confirmation square/box is not over the spot you were guesstimating it would be.. you at least know where the af point is now and can adjust your aim to compensate and retry.. you will find if you adjusted correctly, the green confirmation square/box will be exactly over your intended target
2) The other way to help visually confirm if you've hit your mark with the AF using the OVF is to check the distance scale at the bottom. If it's showing you a distance that is where the subject is from you, then it's a good chance you got the af point where you wanted.. otherwise, if you know the subject is close within a certain distance and the distance scale shows out beyond 10 meters, then you should know it probably missed the mark being it's showing focus so far away.
** Manual Focusing with OVF does not show Corrected AF Frame, meaning you will only get the 1 box in the center which does not represent your true AF focus point, only your infinity point.. you will still have to guesstimate, but you have 1 less box (the close focus box) to reference where to aim and place your focus over. If you get good at guesstimating and confirming focus by taking note of distance scale & seeing how the frame lines adjust, it may not be so bad.
One more note about using manual focus with OVF, the green confirmation box only shows up when using AF-S mode with the OVF.. So, if you're in manual focusing and use your AF-L button to try to more quickly acquire focus first before manually dialing in your focus, there will not be a green box that shows up to confirm AF point lock. you will see the frame lines adjust and distance scale update, but that's the only visual clue you will have to confirm focus point.. you'd probably need to zoom with EVF to be 100% certain. It's stupid.. I don't know why they don't just show the green confirmation box when you've locked focus?.. it's bad enough they took away the 2nd box that shows your close focus reference point.
Can we keep the comments in this thread solely related to concerns or perceived bugs with X-pro2 rather than unrelated opinions that could result in trolling.
I have left all the settings at 0 so far to test it out. Thinking of turning down those highlights a bit. Loving the contrast though, and the X-Pro2 overall!
Here are some images taken on this flat grey afternoon, all shot at f2, OOC Jpegs no PP:
X-Pro2:
#1. Fuji 56mm f1.2
#2. Leica 50mm f1.4 Summilux ASPH
#3. CZ Contax G 45mm f2
