Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, I'm chasing some feedback on the fringed ef to fx adaptor..  I want know if anyone has used big glass with it I.E 100 to 400 or 150 to 600mm sigma lenses and tele converters.. I'm just looking at cheaper option to the fuji 100 to 400mm.. 

Thanks for your  all your help in advance

Noel

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just in case anyone is interested I went ahead and bought a fringes ef/fx pro2. It cost me $450 au new and also picked up a 150 - 600 Sigma contemporary for $814 au used in top nick... wow...! Very happy with the results.. to be honest the autofocus works great, not as fast my 55 to 200 but not that much slower either, very usable. The Sigma is on the heavy side but 600mm mmm mmm love it. I can still hand hold. I had a bit of a play around the house over the last couple of days and have so far enjoyed using it and haven't found any real faults. I've used a canon 70 to 200mm L ll f2.8 and once again the autofocus was a little slower but not by much. I'm not a professional, I'm just letting people know that the fringes works and works well.. so if have some Canon lenses or I would like to get a cheaper option then the fuji 100-400mm and 1.4 extender is all. I do not regret my purchases and I am now looking at Canon lens options second hand like the 300mm prime. Hope this is of some help :)

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by Cando69
At pic
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...