Jump to content

Focus Points. Street photography.

Vilusious

By Vilusious
in Fuji X-T2 / Fuji X-T20

 Share

Recommended Posts

Vilusious Rookie

Vilusious

Posted
Posted (edited)

I love this camera, best I’ve ever owned. However, I want to improve my hit rate, eg, in focus to make it the most accurate. 

I nearly always shoot from the hip, shooting people as they approach me, so they are moving, all be it slowly. I’m aware of back button focus, and have had much success with this. But I feel I can get more success with auto focus. Single point focus gives me access to 325 focus points, also available in manual focus, yet single focus is not recommended for this type of photography! I’ve always used 91  

Auto focus/continuous gives me a slight delay before the shot is made. I don’t think this is an option. 

Can you please give me your recommendations for the conditions described? Many thanks. (I use a 23mm f2). Not an ad, may I post Chris.mazda5mx on instagram for examples?

Edited by Vilusious
Link to post
Share on other sites
Madmo Rookie

Madmo

Posted
Posted

Vilusious,

There will always be a large percentage of misses when you are shooting from the hip. Your best option is stay with manual mode to pre-set your shutter speed and focus. This would allow you to shot as your subject moves within your depth-of-field. 

The video link below may explain it better:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ld1-w0quKk8&t=60s

It should also be stated that in street photography, sharp focus is not necessarily the primary consideration for a good image.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Vilusious Rookie

Vilusious

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for reply Madmo. Not the most popular subject on this forum, hence the number of replies. 

But sometimes I look too deeply into things and perhaps stick with the simplest of methods and

try not to be over clever  I think back button focus is the best method for this kind of photography 

and proved it to myself after revisiting the exact same location after the previous visit, the shots 

were out of focus.  Second time around, the shots were fine  

Thank you for the link  

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • thelostkiwi
      Looking for Full Frame lenses to adapt to GFX

      By thelostkiwi · Posted

      I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Trevor R
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By Trevor R · Posted

      Thank you. I will research it.
    • jerryy
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By jerryy · Posted

      Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Trevor R
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By Trevor R · Posted

      Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • jerryy
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By jerryy · Posted

      Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...