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I only started at 400 ISO to trigger the dynamic range setting on the X-H2 and agree higher ISO will be good for capturing crisp waves I depend on exposure compensation a lot too. For sunsets at the beach, I usually shoot them on a tripod, rarely handheld. At higher ISO, the noise can be considerable when rescuing shadows so I will probably only go up to ~1200. The closed aperture is to control the amount of light from shooting direct in the sun and create a wide depth of field, but I also agree, dialing back to f/11 or f/8 could work when the sun is very low on the horizon. I spot meter on the sun, then dial in the exposure compensation to bring up the shadows. Maybe this isn't a good approach, but it seems to work. I think I just need to be more aggressive with the exposure compensation and see what happens. I may have a chance tonight at a different location on the coast and will post my findings. Thanks for the advice.

Before I get hazed for not knowing basic photography, I want everyone to know I am sincerely asking because I want to dial in a good formula in camera. I don't particularly like using ND filters for sunsets of the ocean because it usually causes me to dial in a slower shutter, blurring the waves. I want crisp, almost stopped motion if possible. In this past I have used ND on other camera systems with varied success. 2-4 stop is usually good. If there are no rocks in the image, graduated ND works great. Recently, I have been thinking about discarding the ND and going with an in-camera solution in my X-H2 or working with a 2 stop ND and doing the rest in camera. I used 200 dynamic range, ISO 400, +0.6 EC 1/210s with the Fujinon XF16mmF1.4 R WR at f/16.0 to achieve the attached photo. I've been shooting street at golden hour with 200 dynamic range with a lot of success, so I tried it on a sunset photograph and it worked out well. I think I could have gone +1 exposure compensation or greater and still rescued the highlights. I want to be able to lift the shadows a bit more, but not to the extent of if I had bracketed three images to be post processed for HDR, so I'm going to try 300 dynamic range and see what happens. Has anyone adjusted the tone curve in camera or anything else to achieve a well balanced photograph? Please share.

I figured it out. I need to remember to sync the camera with my smartphone to get the GPS data.

I have geotagging turned on in the settings on the Fujifilm X-H2, but I do not observe latitude and longitude in the EXIF on each RAW photo when I peek in the file data in Adobe Photoshop or Adobe Lightroom. I use Adobe Bridge and Photo Downloader to get the images from the camera and even tried another process but still no latitude and longitude. Is there a sure process I can use to get locative data out of the camera? Am I doing something wrong? Is there another setting I need other than GEOTAGGING in the settings? What is working for you?

My four lenses would be: 16mm f/1.4 R WR, 23mm f/1.4 R LM WR, 33mm f/1.4 R LM WR, 50-140mm f/2.8 R LM OIS WR I am a huge fan of 24mm, 35mm, and 50mm full-frame equivalent primes. I learned to photograph at these focal lengths. I'm such a stickler, I refuse to get the 18mm f/1.4 over the 16mm because of the ~27mm equivalent. Someone else may prefer that focal length, but I'd rather go wider. I don't care if the 18mm f/1.4 has superior autofocus, the 16mm f/1.4 is a marvelous lens. 23mm would probably be on my camera body most of the time because for the "normal" focal length I greatly prefer the 35mm full-frame equivalent, but I'd switch to 33mm (50mm full-frame) for portraits or some street / landscape photography. I flip between the 23mm and 33mm all the time. 50-140mm is such an amazing zoom, it could cover the telephoto end of the spectrum easy, especially for landscape photography, but also useful for portraits. With this kit there's coverage from 16-140mm with some brilliant low-light capabilities and all weather sealed! If I was shooting mainly portraits I would swap the 23mm out for the 90mm f/2 in a heartbeat. Not the hugest fan of the 56mm f/1.2 but hopefully the newer version will grow on me.