Gourab Guha

I shoot both RAW and JPG, but mostly use JPEGs when sharing. And here's my reasoning.
My film sim of choice on my X-T2 is Acros+R. Street, landscape, portraits, are almost always in B&W for a couple of reasons. I find i just see better in black and white and can focus on composition. I know I have the RAW file if I want color or to make adjustments. And I typically use the phone app to pull JPEGs immediately to post to Instagram or to email to the subjects of events or street portraits.
When I shoot with adapted lenses and manual focus, the black and white rendition allows the red-outlined focus peaking highlight to be easily visible enabling faster focusing.
And ISO 3200 noise in B&W looks just fine to my eyes.
Also, I encourage you to explore faster apertures and topping out at f/8. A more shallow depth of field aids the viewer and even at f/8 there should be plenty in focus and sharper images.

The noise is mainly determined by the exposure (shutter speed and aperture), not by ISO. That is why some do not see much noise at ISO 3200, and some do. With any camera, to minimize the noise, you want to open the aperture and slow down shutter speed as it fits your creative constraints (DOF, object movement, camera shake).

I find that the camera's ISO3200 is acceptable, it doesn't bother me.  Perhaps if you posted a sample of your ISO3200 we could tell you if it's similar to what we're experiencing?
I shoot street photography almost exclusively with my X100V.  I shoot in raw format and process with Lightroom.  I just use the built-in Fuji presets or I'll use Adobe's default presets.

Just go out and shoot with it, the X100v is a brilliant camera with a fantastic lens. I shoot at f8 to F2 with great results. Check out Fuji weekly for some great film simulations.

Okay, there is a lot here in what you are asking.
Try this:
https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/download/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/
It is free, supplied by Fujifilm. This raw converter gives you a lot of options for converting your files and can convert them to either jpg or tiff, both of which can be imported into image editors like PhotoShop or Affinity Photo or , ….
Also, there is DarkTable, http://darktable.org
which is similarly free and gives you a whole lot of raw development tools.
Both of these have good tools to help get rid of color noise, chromatic aberration, luminous noise, noise noise, 😀, etc,
This can help eliminate any issues the raw importer plugin may bring into your images (some of them have problems with Fujifilm raw files, they were supposedly fixed).
 
I have not heard of any problems with that lens at f14 or so, though some folks might suggest that f16 is at the diffraction threshold, which means you will start getting little starburst spots in some exposures. Every lens has what is called its sweet spot which means that this is where it will give its best result — best sharpness, lowest coma, etc. that also means each lens has its horrible spot where it gives its worst result, everywhere else is in between those two places and it takes some using it to find the best settings.
At first it might sound like heresy, but the “correct” exposure does not always mean your image’s histogram is that nice bell shaped curve. If that were the case the world would lose all of those low-key and high-key works of art. You have good low-key stuff, see if these suggestions so far help.