skipcooney

Here is a feature that caused me some grief. If you select Auto for Dynamic Range, the LCD and EVF will no longer display shutter speed and aperture except when the shutter button is pressed halfway. It took me a while to figure out why shutter speed and aperture were missing from the display.

Here is a feature that caused me some grief. If you select Auto for Dynamic Range, the LCD and EVF will no longer display shutter speed and aperture except when the shutter button is pressed halfway. It took me a while to figure out why shutter speed and aperture were missing from the display.

Here is a feature that caused me some grief. If you select Auto for Dynamic Range, the LCD and EVF will no longer display shutter speed and aperture except when the shutter button is pressed halfway. It took me a while to figure out why shutter speed and aperture were missing from the display.

Here is a feature that caused me some grief. If you select Auto for Dynamic Range, the LCD and EVF will no longer display shutter speed and aperture except when the shutter button is pressed halfway. It took me a while to figure out why shutter speed and aperture were missing from the display.

Hi.
What you need to do is connect the camera with the USB cable and then turn it on. The camera will not appear as an external drive on your desktop. Generally, with a Mac, ApplePhoto launches. When this happens just quite the application, don't let it do the importing for you as it places all your photographs in a sealed package which can only be accessed by launching the application. instead, the application you need is in the applications folder, it's called ImageCapture.
Launch ImageCapture and you will see your camera listed on the top left corner.Click on the camera and it will list all the contents of the camera in the main window. At the bottom of the screen there is a small drop down panel which will allow you to direct the application to save to a particular folder, you can either pick something from the drop down menu or at the very bottom of the list, select 'other' and then designate where you want to save to, such as a new older on your desktop. That's what I do and then transfer to online storage and a portable drive. Apple, by default, will try to get you to use ApplePhoto or else save all to the 'pictures' folder. By saving to your own created folder it stops the possibility of duplicate names, which could happen if allowing your computer save to the 'pictures' by default.

The problem is in the default settings of the  software.  Sharpening in LR is set to 40 by default.  C1 uses a 0-1000 scale and is set to 140 - this would be a 14 equivalent in the LR 0-100 scale.  X-trans sensors deliver a MUCH sharper image than the Bayer sensor from Canon/Nikon.  Thus LR is defaulted for Canon/Nikon, while C1 is suited better for X-trans.  Note: the C1 settings I am using come from Version 20 for Fuji.
Also the Luminance settings in C1 are set at 50 while LR is set to 0.  Thus once again, the C1 for Fuji has defaults set for the Fuji sensor while LR is set for Canon/Nikon.  I tried importing in LR with a C1 Fuji preset (14/50) and surprise LR & C1 appear pretty much equal for IQ!  Also I find setting both software to "0" sharpening & "0" Luminance produces equal images.  
I have started importing to LR with preset setting to "0" sharpening & "0" Luminance.  Once I have processed my image I then look at the image and access sharpness.  I will increase it as much as possible without creating noise or worms.  If I see noise or worms before I have done any sharpening, then I set the Sharpening to "1" to enable masking.  I then mask most of the sharpness out.  Roughly masking ends up around 70 to 80.  
If I still see  noise or worms after masking, then I increase Luminance until the  noise or worms are gone.  Usually that ends up less than 50 even if the ISO was 6400 or above.
I find this system solves all the worm issues.  Although the truth is, good capture and correct exposure during capture will reduce  noise or worms the best.