miguel

I am using a 30inch apple cinema display and a 15 inch macbook pro

When sharpening tiff files on a non retina screen at 100% the file is perfect. When I sharpen the same file on a retina screen at 100%, the file is not so sharp when vuewed back on the non retina screen. Someone once told me you must sharpen files on a retina screen at 200% to get the same sharpening effect as you would get at 100% on a non retina screen. Is this true?

I also have the 90mm and think its the sharpest lens in the Fuji range, f4 is the sweet spot on my lens with f5.6 only a little behind, F2.8 is also excellent. My 16mm is sharpest at f4.5 but is not in the same league as the 90. The nearest lens for image quality to the 90 is my 50-140 at f4. Cant comment on the 56 as I do not have this lens.

I would suggest you use the sweet spot of your lens for maximum sharpness.

Thanks for this info, are you shooting jpegs?, have you tried raw files? Is it practible to shoot 100 raws? you must need a lot of computer power? Also have you tried processing in photoshop rather than Helicon focus? Is step 1 greater than step 10 or vice versa, I would appreciate if you could share some of your frames/steps as a rough guide for landscapes, objects < 1:1 and > 1:1 Thanks again

Does anyone have any tips on how to get the best out of face and eye detection on the XT2. I have the 35mm, 90mm and the 50-140 zoom. I believe that eye detection does not work in afc mode.

Rather than buy ext tubes, has anyone any thoughts regarding the use of a 1,4 converter on the 50-140 lens. This combination will get me a bigger imager and keep me at a longer distance from the subject, providing the image quality does not suffer.

Is there any chance that the xt3 will be able to match the Sony A711’s continuous focus eye detection. This is the only feature that would induce me to buy one, I have xt2’s

I may have found the partial answer to my problem, Apparently if you shoot at greater than 5 fps you will have a lag in the viewfinder, So with me shooting at 11fps what I see in the evf whilst I am tracking a fast gokart is the lastt frame exposed, not the current view. Therefore I am tracking the subject based on the last exposed view of the sequence, meanwhile the subject has moved quite some distance suffucient to render it soft or out of focus. The only thing I can not apply this solution to, is why the first frame of each sequence is not sharp?

Afraid not, I deleted them in disgust. In its simplest form, where I had 3 or 4 karts coming towards me, having tracked the first kart, it was the third or fourth kart that was the sharpest, sometimes the focus was too close to me and none of the Karts were sharp. I deliberately used the centre single point for focus and kept the kart in the centre of the viewfinder to the best of my ability. I was so disappointed because I used the centre focus point in afc mode on some static shots and they were pin sharp. I shall have to go out on the street and test this setup with oncoming cars.

I have been trying to shoot gokarts at our local track with the xt2, battery pack and a 50-140 zoom. Shutter speeds between 1/1000 and 1/3000 to freeze the karts, apertures f2.8 and f4. The custom focus was set to 3 which shows a gokart in the setup, should be ideal I thought. Focussing was done using back button afc focus, held in all the time I was tracking the karts, I also tried assigning afc to the shutter button. Just for consistency I left the focus bracket in the centre of the image and used the two smallest squares to track the karts. The results were a disaster, the focus was never where I wanted it, I shot at 11 fps to try that also, when I pressed the shutter on the lead kart coming towards me, it was not sharp but the 4th or 5th kart behind was reasonably sharp, There is no problem with the outfit as the static shots I took are pin sharp as they should be. Any ideas anyone?

Its great that fuji give us this much needed option but I do wish they had thought about it first. How long is a step? At what focus distance,? does it vary with aperture? you have no idea where the far point focus will be, its pure guesswork with too many variables. What we need is the system that the fuji tether plug in pro provides, you focus at a near end point, then focus at a far away end point, select the number of frames you want to shoot and off you go, its perfect. It cant be too dificult to make a firmware change, please give us a near and far point focus reference equal the the plug in. Michael

I am an ex Nikon user and a professional photographer and have the 90, 16, 23, 35 and 50-140 zoom lenses. I have to say that the 90mm is the sharpest lens of the bunch, by a long way too. I love this lens, when I look at the images I want to stop using all the other lenses, its so good. I may have been lucky and bought an excellent copy, this is one lens I value above all the others. If it has a problem, its without OIS, you need to shoot hand held at 1/500 minimum for the best IQ. Wide open its excellent, f2.8 to f5.6 it is outstanding. When the new XH-1 with IBIS arrives, that should make this lens the greatest ever, I am only hoping that IBIS does not have any adverse effect on the IQ of this lens

We now have the promised software which I have to say is a bitter disappointment for me and probably all RAW shooters. I thought we were going to get software that would process Raw files better than Adobe camera raw etc. From what I can see all we have is a method of processing to jpegs, no different to the in camera app, except we can now do it on a larger screen. I do not shoot jpegs, only Raw so this is of no use to me whatsoever, I would have much preferred Fuji to spend the time and money on producing a first class wireless remote to replace the mediocre one available at the moment. As for Fuji Acquire, we live in a wireless world these days, do we really want a product that needs a tether cable?

Is there any chance fuji may produce a tilt and shift lens in the 21mm region? Trying to adapt canons lenses is problematic due to stopping apertures down Michael