Jump to content

fireman1961

Members
  • Content Count

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

fireman1961 last won the day on November 6 2018

fireman1961 had the most liked content!

About fireman1961

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://buzz-photography.blogspot.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : Lake Constance, Germany
  • Interests
    photography is my hobby, just like hiking & biking, breathing clean air, creating cool videos

Recent Profile Visitors

650 profile views
  1. ooops - the Fuji X-E1 VErsion 2.71 Download redirects to X-T2 Firmware ... ()
  2. so below 1/500th is 1/1000th? or if you understand what I understand: 1/250th is slower. But at 1/250th or 1/125 shutter speed, you will not need high speed sync? And please let me tell you that from the flah point of view, HSS operation is pure stress. It has to swich on / off / on / off at a very high frequency for at least 1/125th of a second; exactly: all the time the open curtain slot needs to travel across the sensor. If you use - say 1/30 - shutter speed, it's about 4 times longer! That's not easy to implement because of energy issues - you need a bigger capacitor, you must figure out how to get the energy from a huge capacitor to the flash bulb, and you must dissipate a lot of energy in your cooling system!
  3. I like Fujifilm (over other APS_C Systems) because of the lenses. I switched from Canon EOS D60; now mirrorless has the other advantage of doing eye recognition autofocus (eye AF). I am no pro, but an enthusiast (amateur). My current cam is the X-E1 for fun and the X-T2 for a little more serious shootings. What's on my wish list? 1. A bigger grip with a bigger battery inside would be welcome. Of course, I do see other people who don't shoot 1.000 pictures a day on a city trip to London or Paris. These people want to keep the "film camera style" without an extending grip. 2. More film simulations - and film simulations that can be rendered to match any other film - would be appreciated, too. I made the disclaimer I switched from Canon; and on Canon cameras you can use 6 or 7 build-in / fixed "picture styles" plus 3 more of your own liking. And the Canon community build their own picture styles which are countless. (I myself rendered some, using the picture style editor.) Why not implement this alike in Fuji cameras? 3. Whenever I switch from studio shooting - owning a small own photo studio and shooting for friends exclusively - or flash shooting - I mean "off camera flash shooting", e.g. for photographing items I want to sell on the local community, like ebay, on a private basis - I feel there are so many adjustments to be made from auto iso to manual iso, auto shutter speed to manual shutter speed 1/125 or 1/160, white balance, electronic shutter to mechanical shutter, automatic viewfinder brightness film simulation; and maybe some more. So what about user customizable modes U1, U2, U3? I can figure out this point is not easily to be implemented on a camera with dedicated wheels for aperture, iso, and shutter speed. So... ... what about combining points 1 & 3 in another camera called X-H2 or - because it's too late now - call it X-H3? This would give a somewhat distinctive style to the H-series, which has little unique selling propositions when the X-T4 comes with IBIS. Just my 2 cents and on the H-series instead of T-series. Okay but: Thank you, Fujifilm, for listening!
  4. Fuji X-E1 w/ XC16-50OiSII, filmsimulation b&w, ISO800, sharpness+2, tone hi+2, tone lo+1, noise reduction-2, jpg sooc I often use hi ISO and lo NR to enhance grain, when shooting B&W.
  5. midtones a little bit brighter; color: jpg ooc (Vivid)
  6. I just tried this; shutter dial set to "T". No problem at all. Maybe your storage media had low capacity left?
  7. Can you reproduce this effect? (try with lens cap on)?
  8. Instead of going for "exposure compensation", I chose full manual operation (I'm restrained to call it manual "mode", you see...). Why would you chose "exposure comp."? - Most of the times it is when light condition is tricky, for example the main light comes from front direction. Okay: I have noticed in those difficult light conditions, the exposure depends on what you're pointing your camera at. A slight angle upward / downward / left / right and the auto exposure gives very different values. So what I do is - assuming I've chosen the aperture I want and I'm using auto ISO / auto shutter time - I point the camera so that the exposure just feels right, take a photo and read out ISO and shutter values. Now I simply set ISO and shutter to the values just read out. So I'm shooting full manual and get the results I want, independantly of any angle I shoot. Okay, just my 2c.
  9. Congrats. A very fine camera, as I've heard 🎅
  10. this picture taken with my X-E1 (set to velvia) is also jpg straight out of cam, no editing
  11. This picture is jpeg right out of cam (X-T2), with no editing whatever.
  12. My X-T2 has got an even better viewfinder and face detection / eye detection when compared to the X-T1. I've got a portrait shot at ISO 1600 which is fully usable for prints up to 20cm X 30cm. I accidentally shot another portrait at ISO 12.800 and it is usable at 10cm X 15cm. Colors for portraits (Astia) or landscape (Velvia) are very good even on my X-E1. If I had got an X-T1, I would opt at an X-T3 or just wait some years for the X-T4 to come. I myself will wait for the X-H2 as a "second" camera.
×
×
  • Create New...