kyoleung
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Posts posted by kyoleung
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I welcome whatever comment, advice or critics, they stimulate me to think, re-evaluate, experiment new things and understand how other people are.
If everyone has the same taste, same thought, same vision, etc, the world would be so boring
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Agree with you on the stop increasing of pixel count issue. For people cropping a lot and print really big, that really helps. But for most folks, 24 mpixels are well enough for most purposes, can print big up to A3+.
I really hope sensor companies like Sony can put more emphasis on the areas of wider dynamic range, higher color reproduction quality, fewer noise etc
For camera companies, make cameras more customizable, eg allow us to customize the curve for jpg, file name with customized template instead of just img_xxxx
I never knew printing can be done on glass, just knew in the old time, people painted on it. Will google to know more about the details. Thanks for the recommendation.
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Shot with X-T10 with 18-55mm in May 2016.
*** Tokyo ***
( the bicycle girl was shot with a low end smartphone )*** Hakone *** -
well, I simply readjusted the levels.
Several of your captures are, in my opinion, simply too pale, but maybe this might also depend upon your monitor or your taste for a more “ pastel” rendition. If you were ever to print those pictures you would see that they would flatten even more.
But these things are not set in stone. Sometimes I see people with pics where there are only super saturated colors and images supposed to be in black and white which are sot in grey and grey-er.
Nice compositions.
Heard that printing help finding the "defects" of the photo, from someone else as well.
You have a printer at home and print often ?
I rarely print them out, if I do, just go to some local store to print at 3R or 4R size, at 0.2 USD dollar each. But I am planning to print some of my picks at large size , eg at A4 or A3 size. Then hang up in my house
Btw, I am from Hong Kong, Asia.
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nice pics but quite a few show very “ light” on my monitor, a bit less brightness would saturate colors and give more presence.
If you don’t mind I made some quick and dirty adjustments to show what I mean.
I like your adjustments! Those were processed with HDR, which was quite new to me in the year 2015.
Welcome anyone to leave comments~ Exchanging ideas is a great thing!
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Did you see the yellow car?
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-gloucestershire-39456449
Looks like you had a good time.
Nope, didn't see one, pitty~~ haha~
I really had a great time. It is my first trip to Europe and the UK, the weather was fine most of the time, the scenery, historic buildings, culture impressed me so much!
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1) Indeed a few pictures are HDR processed in Photomatix first and then further edited in LR.
2) the sequence of the 14-day trip , in London > Birminham > Manchester > Edinburgh ( Scotland ) > York > Oxford and Cotswold > London. All by trains.
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*** London ***
** The National Gallery, Lots of great paintings **
*** On the plane ***
Looks like a nuclear bomb XD
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*** Cotswolds in Central England ***
*** Manchester ***
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Hi everyone. I made a visit to the United Kingdom in April, 2015. The trip lasted 14 days.
Photos taken with X-E2 and 18-55mm lens, processed with LR 6. This " kit " lens is a great work-around gem !
Re-evaluate all the photos recently, I found a lot of room for improvement. Picked some photos and share on Flickr.
Thanks for watching!
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*** Edinburgh ******* York ******ck Lee, 於 Flickree, 於 Flickr -
I don't have much experience with Iridient, but I can tell you with reasonable certainty that the files that it creates will have the same latitude and editability as the original RAF files. It's still outputting a raw file, so all of the information should be there.
thanks for your sharing~~
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I like Capture One for several reasons
1. at default settings, the image quality is already quite good.
2. lots of controls, allowing layers for local editing.
3. the program's resopnse is rather snappy.
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Hello! One stupid question. I am totally new to Iridient.
I heard Iridient is good at demosaicing. But if the picture is a bit over-exposed or need some highlight recovery. Is these things fully recoverable from the tiff file generated by the Iridient comparing to the RAW file editing in Lightroom or Capture One? What I mean is same degree of recoverability.
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I have put a RAW file and the two JPGs on dropbox. Feel free to take a look
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kabgt5y6vzckr3p/AADatupC5o5wtKQllaOMX7Fva?dl=0
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I was a Lightroom user until year 2015, switched to Capture One. I am very happy with its color reproduction, editing style.
Recently, I tried the RAW FILE CONVERTER EX 2.0 powered by SILKYPIX provided by FujiFilm on its web.
I did not complete a formal and thorough comparison, I just load a RAW file into both Capture One and Silkypix, set them both at default settings and certain profile which I think look the best, without touching anything else, eg exposure, details.
I am totally surprised by the image quality produced by Silkypix, a lot of micro-contrast and very punchy 3D look.
Though the interface is not quite intuitive as Capture One. Also it is simplified version, some important features are missing. I am going to stay on Capture One.
I suggest anyone to try it for once! It is free.
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Thank you so so much for the efforts and time! The results look great! Save me a lot of time!
I am glad the Fuji world is full of helping hands,
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@fleckintosh and @Ario: The result is awesome! Thanks a lot!
I compared these film simulations with the C1 Extended Filmstyle Set. The result is much more subtle and much better aligned to the JPEGs straight from the camera. I definitively recommend using these styles, not the ones from C1.
The procedure is a bit complex, so let me summarize for all the newcomers. The result will be, that these great Fuji film simulations provided by fleckinthosh are saved as C1 ICC profiles, specific for your camera (X-T1, X-Pro2, X-T2) and can be used regulary in C1 under Basic Characteristics without any hassles:
1) Download the ICC files from Dropbox-Download, either for X-T1 or X-Pro2 (look at the end of the file name for X-Pro2). I used the X-Pro2 files for my X-T2, because the X-T2 has the same sensor as the X-Pro2. So far, all works fine.
2) Copy the downloaded files to the correct C1 directory. The directory locations are:
On a Mac system the custom ICC profile will be located in: Users/UserX/Library/Colorsync/Profiles
On a Windows system the profiles will be located in: Users/UserX/AppData/CaptureOne/Color Profiles
3) Start C1, select a picture taken with the camera you want to save the film simulation for (i.e. X-T1, X-Pro2 or X-T2, depending on the files you downloaded)
4) Apply the desired profile to this picture (taken with the selected camera, i.e. X-T1, X-Pro2 or X-T2), by selecting this profile from Base Characteristics/ICC Profiles/Fuji/XT-1 (the tool Base Characteristics is in the Color Tool Tab)
5) Open the Advanced Color Editor
6) Save settings as ICC profile giving a useful name (the correct camera name is already there). I did use a naming as "FujiXT2-C_1.Provia", where "C" stands for "color", and "FujiXT2-B_1.Acros", with "B" for Black & White. With the numbering, all appears later in a nice order
7) Close C1, go to the Color Profiles directory and delete the temporary files (the ones downloaded)
8) Start C1 again, go to the Color Tool Tab and Base Characteristics, then choose under ICC Profiles the option only display recommended. Then only the ICC profiles matching the camera used will be shown and the list of ICC profiles becomes much shorter and better in overview
From then on, you can select the Fuji film style from Base Characteristic/ICC Profiles and the result is already shown in the picture, when the cursor is located over the style name. Because I do that very first, I have added the tool Base Characteristics in the Lens Correction Tool Tab, then I apply lens correction and film simulation in one go.
That's it.
wow! thanks for the detail explanation!!!
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Anyone needs the following improvement?I am using X-T10.There is an option named IMAGE DISPLAY under SCREEN SET UP, that allows 0.5, 1.5 seconds or Continuous display of the image after the shutter is released.In case the option is 1.5 seconds selected, when the Image is displayed, I wanna check whether the focus is achieved, I press the Rear Command Dial, it has no effect. The image will be gone after 1.5 seconds and the live view is back.When the option is Continuous, pressing the Rear Command Dial will magnify the focus point.However, this only works under the Drive Mode is Single Shot. In case of CL or CH, it doesn't work,My point is, of course, I can always enter the PlayBack Mode to check the focus. But I do notice, it takes a short moment to enter the PlayBack Mode, and the screen flashes which is annoying.I remember in the case of Canon camera, it allows me to stay on the Image Display stage after pressing a button.
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Anyone here needs the following improvement?I am using X-T10.There is an option named IMAGE DISPLAY under SCREEN SET UP, that allows 0.5, 1.5 seconds or Continuous display of the image after the shutter is released.In case the option is 1.5 seconds selected, when the Image is displayed, I wanna check whether the focus is achieved, I press the Rear Command Dial, it has no effect. The image will be gone after 1.5 seconds and the live view is back.When the option is Continuous, pressing the Rear Command Dial will magnify the focus point.However, this only works under the Drive Mode is Single Shot. In case of CL or CH, it doesn't work,My point is, of course, I can always enter the PlayBack Mode to check the focus. But I do notice, it takes a short moment to enter the PlayBack Mode, and the screen flashes which is annoying.I remember in the case of Canon camera, it allows me to stay on the Image Display stage after pressing a button.
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Allow me to make a summary of the suggestions in addition to the original 11.
1) Better power management. Show the power in percentage %, instead of of blocks. The current system is unreliable, from full to empty battery can happen in a few minutes.2) Make self timer more flexible. Add Option of "Keep the timer after turn off the camera". Besides, allow user to customize the timer instead of having just 2 or 10 seconds.3) Improve the distance scale. Enable the camera to automatically compute the HyperFocal point based on the aperature, focal length of the lens and the focus distance. Show the Hyper Focal point on the distance scale. -
Here is the email reply from Japan received last week. It tooks several days since I sent out. Although it is a simple reply, I feel they respect the customers by acknowledging.
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I am really happy that Fuji users love the system and have lots of useful suggestion. It would be wonderful if most of the suggestion will be implemented very soon!
Make your suggestion in simple English and send to Fujifilm Japan, as most Japanses are not that good in English,
Lots of ideas!
I would echo the suggestion of kyoleung, though, and invite everyone to send an email directly to Fuji. They seem to listen to their user base (except for the HDR...) so let them know what we want.
The mail addresses for Fuji UK and Fuji Japan is here:
http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/3547-11-suggestions-for-fuji-mostly-firmware/?p=32669
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I really hope everyone who likes Fujifilm X System and have any improvement suggestion like the above, Please voice out your suggestion to them directly, like using the email system listed above.
I strongly believe if there is constantly a number of customers asking for certain type of improvement, it is hard for them to ignore.
Even if they don't release the improvement in the firmware, it is very likely the improvement will be implemented in the new models. Then it is still a good thing, as long as we are in the X system.
Fujifilm is doing a much better job comparing to other camera companies, as it constantly refines and add features to old models through firmware.
However, I still think generally, Japanese companies are poor at interacting and collecting feedback from the customers, unlike the Western counterparts.
If we want X System to improve, let's us all help Fujifilm and ourselves by telling them what we WANT directly~
)
Lightroom for x-trans... seriously?
in RAW conversion Fuji X-Trans Sensor
Posted · Edited by kyoleung
Thanks for the in-depth explanation of the root cause. Alan, you are really a PRO !
Op, could you share the RAF, and let us experiment ?