Wolvesgang
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Posts posted by Wolvesgang
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8 hours ago, Ebell24 said:
Hello everyone!
Im new here I have a Fuji X-T3 and an 18-55 2.8-4 lens and a 16mm 2.8 lens. I’ve put a couple sample pictures below. But I got the new camera and lens after sending back my X-T20 back to Fuji for poor image quality. And I’m still not very happy with the X-T3 either. The photos seem to me to be noisy and that sharp. Am I doing something wrong or am I just too picky? I’m getting pretty frustrated. The pictures down below are jpgs shot at ISO 160 the landscape was shot at f11 and the pic of my son and wife I think was shot at f8 ISO 160. Honestly these pictures look identical quality as the photos my wife took on her iPhone. And I shoot RAW+JPG, the raw files don’t look any better
Can you post a download link to the original files?
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5 hours ago, chrisdennyphoto said:
OK. I will look into that as a temp solution. Hopefully, a perm solution will come up.
I think your camera is fine. A hot sensor will show more hot pixels. They come and go over time. Nothing to worry.
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4 hours ago, chrisdennyphoto said:
Ahh man. I was hoping you would not say that. I hope thats not what is needed. Servicing can take weeks. Just had this thing for a month.
Did you use LONG EXPOSURE NR?? Actually this should remove the hot pixels from the raw and jpeg.
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18 minutes ago, jerryy said:
I do not have any good thoughts about how to stop the hot pixels from showing up, but there are noise reduction techniques from astrophotography that may help your images until you are able to get the hardware issue resolved.
Right after taking a long exposure shot (or sequence) put the lens cap back on and take another image at the very same settings you used for the long exposure shot. in your image editing software, put this dark frame as a layer directly above your good image layer. Set the blend mode for the dark frame to “Subtract”. That should take care of a lot of the minor issues and help towardcthe major ones.
Another possibility is to set the blend mode to “Difference” and play with the layer’s opacity setting.
These do depend on whether or not your image processing software allow you to do that sort of thing.
Actually the setting LONG EXPOSURE NR should do the dark frame subtraction. In my XT30 it works without any problem. That's why you have to wait more than double the exposure time, until the long exposure is finished with this setting on.
autofocus malfunction
in Fuji X-T3 / Fuji X-T30
Posted
Did you try a hard reset?