huck222

Okay, but as you said "everything will appear out of focus, even with a small aperture." So, a small aperture is no fix here. And should not be required to compensate for AF inacurracy.

Oh my goodness, here we go. Listen Mr. smart, i do understand depth of field and all. But. This question is about AF accuracy. Why is there AF anyway? If i point my camera at a tree, then the AF should just do it's job, and focus on that tree. Right? Because it is a tool. Why do you think i was in automatic mode? I was in manual. By the way, on many many shots in this series, f5,6 was way softer than f/4. Also had soft images with stopped down apertures. So again, this is about AF acurracy. And you know, sometimes we use an open aperture. And i'm used to AF tools that just focus on that focus point.

Same issue here and it does not only apply to trees. Quite frankly I think insisting that a "real" landscape photographer should use manual focus is insulting to the camera If fuji claims fast and accurate focus, then it should be fast and accurate.
 
I've seem the focus being completely off, so much so that it was clearly visible in the EVF. The latest firmware does seem to fix this to an extend, but I still don't fully trust the AF, at least not when using a zoom lens.

Well, guess there's one of this kind in every forum. Wouldn't be a forum without one perfectly dumb answer in every thread. Look, Mr Manual, this is an AF acurracy test. If the camera can't focus on a static tree, then good luck with a running rabbit. Goodness me !!

What a stupid question. Why would you pay $1600 for a camera with supposedly excellent autofocus and similarly expensive autofocus lenses if you were just planning to use manual focus?

Well, guess there's one of this kind in every forum. Wouldn't be a forum without one perfectly dumb answer in every thread. Look, Mr Manual, this is an AF acurracy test. If the camera can't focus on a static tree, then good luck with a running rabbit. Goodness me !!

the XT-2 Autofocus seems to have severe issues with certain fine structures. Just spent many frustrating hours:
I was actually testing lenses on what i thought makes a perfect object: fine twigs against the sky. Set it on a tripod, with the 10-24. The AF is very inaccurate or erratic, at 24 mm i get many blurry images. Same with the super sharp 35/f2, but smaller differences. (No problems with the 56, thats perfect). Also tested it on the X-T1, kind of the same issues.
I might have it repaired/exchanged, and HOPE there's a fix. I'm wondering if maybe the AF System can not "see" fine structures, like fine branches. But it's high contrast against the sky (the rather poor AF on my old Canon 5D2 and 6D never had problems like this). That would mean serious problems with landscape photography...i mean, it's just a usual object. Nothing extreme or difficult for AF. Attached a 100% crop: image to the right is sharp, shot right after the blurry one. I got tons of that erratic sharpness.
New firmware, all 135 AF points activated. Single point focus.
Looking forward to your opinions/experiences...thanks!

Well now, that's funny. What was that "best of luck with your other cameras? I've shown you some "luck" with Canon, a DSLR that is, without that grid pattern flare, caused by sensor reflections it seems (because what sort of lens could produce such a grid?), which you do not believe. The sun i the frame, was for you "a freak way to photograph". So maybe my "misreading" was caused by your misspelling. But i do appreciate the entirely new tone and content of what you are saying now. =)

Regarding Fuji, i found that a aperture not smaller than f/9 is best, avoiding that flare grid pattern. Stopped down beyond f/11, the ugly grid shows more or less. Which is bothering, because with landscapes apertures smaller than f9 are pretty common. See attached comparison. In this instance even at f22 its kinda okay-ish, but its definatly something not to be ignored.
 

Well, you were criticizing him harshly for shooting against the sun, saying it's not the problem of the camera/lens, but the photographer. Right? Well, it think that is totally wrong.
Ok guys, sorry for the late follow up. Don't get me wrong, i am not talking about MY work, but about the world of photography out there, where the sun IN a picture is very very common and attractive. And the Fuji System has some issues with it. Mostly it seems, because of reflections between back lens and sensor. Here's a picture taken with my Canon. Any problems there, Milandro? I dont see any. Some flare is okay or beautiful. Some taken with Canon are worse, yes, but Fuji is a different world. That's the point of this thread now isn't it?

Sorry but you're being very very ignorant. Frankly, i'm wondering what you're shooting anyway, or at what level. Shooting into the sun is absolutely common practice for a variety of professional photography. Landscape, Outdoors, Tourism ... oh my. do i have to explain it? Never seen any commercials of this sort? Whereas regarding the brands, say Canon vs Fuji: the canon 17mm TSE for instance, creates a very clean and beautiful sun "star". Incomparable to the Fuji 10-24. Now i landed in this thread, because my 10-24 on the XT-2 creates lots of colorful dots, pretty bad. In very obvious repeating patterns. Nothing like may Canon 16-35 or 17. You know what? Ask around stock agencies or photogs, and they will tell you that "sun in the photo" sells A LOT better for certain motifs. Not to folks like you, of course. But please stop blathering. Dont ridicule photographers that do shoot into the sun!

Oh my goodness, here we go. Listen Mr. smart, i do understand depth of field and all. But. This question is about AF accuracy. Why is there AF anyway? If i point my camera at a tree, then the AF should just do it's job, and focus on that tree. Right? Because it is a tool. Why do you think i was in automatic mode? I was in manual. By the way, on many many shots in this series, f5,6 was way softer than f/4. Also had soft images with stopped down apertures. So again, this is about AF acurracy. And you know, sometimes we use an open aperture. And i'm used to AF tools that just focus on that focus point.